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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191061

Good look you have taken the correct path of attack....let us know how you get on removing those stubborn bolts.

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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191071

He already mentioned using 6 point sockets...then again if they are cheapo worn ones then they have damaged the head from the start. ..so mangling bolts that are stubborn are the last of your worries...chuck the bolts and get some new...we talking about brakes not window wipers..it also depends on who fitted those brakes...I've seen people use cheap sockets made of monkey metal round a bolt as they fit it...and the next to realize that is the poor person removing it ..loctite muppets are everywhere...seen new Apr entices tighten bolts with there worn sockets and wrong grade loctite and wrong torque..and my irwin sockets removed the wrong doing where no other type will even sniff it .if you want heat on those bolts fly the tf to Cobber I bet it's hot over is side of the world


Nah it's winter here in Oz
Currently here in Melbourne at 23:10 hours it's 11degC
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191072

11 degrees c......we hit 32 degrees here the other day n goes from one extreme to the other 32 degrees and then that much rain the local dam is collapsing..
The following user(s) said Thank You: sworkscooper

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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191104

Well using David's suggested sockets both bolts were removed although one did need a torque wrench to give that extra leverage. Pads out - everything was corroded and very stiff. Hand brake cable detached but rain stopped play about then. Next task is to see how the piston moves.

Thanks for the support.
The following user(s) said Thank You: sworkscooper

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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191142

Drivers side caliper seemed fine - cleaned up the pads so they sat free. Piston pushed out and wound back in and the handbrake operation seemed free. Wire brushed the disc and filed down a narrow rusty rim. Hurray!

So turned to the passenger side. Did the same cleaned and filed the pad edges, cleaned the locating clips etc. All fine. Tried the piston and yes it moves out but no way is it going to wind back. Quick look under the seal and it's the rusty rim job. I've taken the caliper off with a view to cleaning up the piston (hopefully!) and renewing the seals.

Question folks. Are the seals limited to the TF or, being lucas used on other cars? I want to give my local motor factors plenty of help to find the right thing.

Cheers.

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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191152

When I did mine I got parts from brakes international as I always do but after doing the job once I would buy a new caliper would have been cheaper by the time I bought tools and I don't say this very often but that's what mot examiner said to do and he was definitely correct imho.

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Seized rear callipers 4 years 8 months ago #191153

Having tried both routes, I have to agree. You can get new callipers very reasonably priced if you look around.
:yesnod:
David
:shrug:

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