Topic

Good afternoon chaps,

I've recently ventured into the world of ownership of an MGF 1.8i and have ran into several problems. The main one is an issue with the clutch. After reading posts on this forum it seemed I had an issue with the clutch leaver sticking. After inspection it seems the issue is much worse (see pics)

My question is, would I be able to swap the clutch arm housing with one from a TF and how difficult would it be? Not sure how the bleed nipple snapped off but pretty sure it isn't salvageable. Is this a common issue?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,

Nick

Hi

I can't see the pics but from your comments I guess the clutch arm has seized and damaged the clutch slave cylinder.

If so you can get a new slave cyclinder but need to free off the clutch arm before fitting the new one.

Spray copious amounts of a release agent onto the arm and the hole where it enters the bellhousing. The arm will free up eventually if you keep working it. You'll probably have to use a lever to get it to move.

When you get it free get some lithium grease into the hole to keep it free.

Freeing off the arm is much easier than replacing the clutch arm, as that is not an easy job. You need to split the bellhousing from the engine and remove the clutch friction plate and pressure plate!

Thanks for the welcome David!

After consulting my workshop manual it is indeed the slave cylinder I'm needing to replace. The image (apologies for the duff upload) would've shown the nipple and part of the cylinder have snapped clean off. I'm certainly going to need to replace it.
Would you recommend me buying a new one or would I get away with using a 2nd hand one from a TF at my local scrap yard? Mine is an F so wanted to make sure it's a straight swap before grabbing it.
Also, how much of a job is it? I've looked through the 'how to' post on here (extremely useful btw) but only found a guide to servicing the slave cylinder.

Thanks again for your reply.

Changing the slave cylinder is easy....

1 You need to get access through the inspection cover. I presume you already have done this.
2 To remove the hydraulic union use a GOOD spanner, or better buy a flare nut spanner of the right size. If you round off, or damage the flare nut, then the problems will multiply!
3 The cylinder is held on to the clutch arm by a pin, retained by an "R" clip. Needle nose pliers for the clip, and big pliers to pull the pin out. This is the most difficult bit, as the pin sometimes sticks.
4 Once separated, then use a good socket (recommend 6 side sockets, not common 12 point sockets) and remove the bolts and remove the cylinder.
5 refit in reverse.

BUT

Bleeding the cylinder is usually a challenge, and i recommend you get an EZBleed as this will make it much easier and quicker.


When you have removed the old cylinder, then work the release arm and lubricate as David said, and make sure the arm is not tight. If it is tight it is a wast of time fitting a new cylinder!

Used cylinders are usually fine, but advisable to re-seal them before fitting. New one is less work, but more expensive. F and TF are the same.

Also would recommend re-sealing master cylinder while the system is empty of fluid.

Buy about 500ml. or 1l. of fluid and replace all old clutch fluid
two or three hours (add an hour or two for the master cylinder), but longer if the clutch arm is tight and needs freeing.

Thanks for this. I've removed the old slave cylinder and acquired a 2nd hand working one.

The clutch arm cannot be operated by hand, does that mean it's tight? Is there any way I can release it without taking the gearbox off?

I've heard a few people talk about greasing it and freeing it off, is this possible?

Ok, so I fitted a deep 19mm socket over the top of the arm and put two socket extension bars over the top.With a bit of persuasion the arm started to move and after applying a bit of release spray it seems to be a little freer. How free am I aiming to get the arm? Does it need to be hand loose? Once it's loose enough, should I put some copper grease around the point where the arm meets the bell housing?
I'm guessing that this is a point of no return and will continue to happen until the arm is replaced?

Clutch arm should have no resistance to movement, untill it makes contact with the clutch plates, so yes...free movement.

Keep working in penetrating oil (not water displacing or lubricant such as WD40!!). Good penetrating oil. It will take a lot of work to get this down. When it is, and arm is free, then use some fine lubricating oil, such as 3in1 and work that in.

When that is in, then Lithium grease from a spray can. When sprayed it contains a lot of solvent, which will help work it in, but after a few seconds this evapourates, so clean it up and repeat.

It will be hard work but it is essential.

If you do not complete this, and re-assemble when arm is tight, be prepared to have to free it off every week, otherwise it will seize up again. If it stays tight, then excessive force is on the thrust bearing constantly, and the thrust bearing will melt!

Ask me how I know this

Thanks G0RSQ, I think I may have been lubricating the wrong area.

I'm using WD40 fast release penetrant, I believe it's a similar product to PlusGas but I could be wrong. Is this suitable for the initial freeing of the arm?

On the clutch release arm there are two areas that I have been lubricating. the first is where the shaft meets the bell housing and the second is around 3rd way up the shaft where there seems to be a lip. Which one should I concentrate on? Looking at the workshop manual I would guess at the area 3rd way up but could you confirm please?

If I get the arm moving enough to power it from the slave cylinder, could I lubricate it further at that point? My thinking is that having someone sat pumping the clutch whilst I spray would be easier than using the socket and extension method (on my own).

Sorry for the stupid questions, it's been a good 15 years since I worked on a vehicle and I've never worked on an MG before. It's like learning to ride a bike again but the bike has a snapped frame, missing gears and no brake pads!

I really do appreciate the help and hope to become a long term MG owner....

The arm seizes where it penetrates the bellhousing. (Different metals-alloy and steel). So you need to get the release spray right into the hole where the arm disappears.

No wonder it wasn't getting any freer, I was lubricating the bell housing!!
You live and learn I guess - I'll give it another crack tomorrow afternoon and let you know how I get on.

Thanks both for the help so far. No doubt I'll have a wealth of other questions and it's great to know there are knowledgeable people available to help.

Hi Nick . All F and TF owners go through this sort of grief at some time in ownership . Keep at it and don't loose faith . All the guys on this forum are both knowledgeable and friendly ( some are totally nuts ) so don't be afraid to ask before going in blind.

John