Topic

OK, dismantled the gearboxes and they are very different electrically, but it is relatively easy to swap everything over.
Tested the hybrid, wired exactly as the original and It all works.
BUT... The casing is still live.

Next job, after F1 qualifying, remove the motor casing to check for a shorted wire.

And what a qualifying it was, the season is still throwing up plenty of curve balls!

Back to my original post on this subject though, my new one should arrive early to middle of the week, if you want me to strip it and do some photos for you to compare like for like, let me know. I shouldn't think I'll be fitting it till the weekend so plenty of time if needs be

I bought a used motor and wiper linkages for the grand sum of £15 and fitted it myself. Not a very hard job click here to view the T-Bar How To

I am a self confessed 'unable to do anything' kind of gal unfortunately, at the time it was needs must, had just picked the car up and needed to use it and started P*$$ing down lol, I can only hole as time goes by I can learn how to do things for myself using the how tos, I am very jealous and very much in awe of all you technical minded folks on here,

davmor wrote: wrote:

And what a qualifying it was, the season is still throwing up plenty of curve balls!

Back to my original post on this subject though, my new one should arrive early to middle of the week, if you want me to strip it and do some photos for you to compare like for like, let me know. I shouldn't think I'll be fitting it till the weekend so plenty of time if
needs be

Great qualifying, really looking forward to the race!


Having opened up the motor and tested everything in sight, I think I'm right in saying( but it's a long time since A level physics) that there should not be connectivity between the rotor and the casing.

Having pulled the brushes off the commutator to discount them, there is still a connection between the casing and the rotor. This can only be through the bearing where the rotor shaft shaft exits the motor and joins the gearbox.


I wish I had checked this motor properly before I cut the plug off! £46 down the Swanny.

Know of someone near Carlisle that has said if I ever need anything electrical done then they have a friend that can do everything! Apparently cut his teeth as a motor electrician, did a stint with motorbike electrics and now has set up for themselves doing vehicle electric "fixes".

David, try checking between each comm segment and the shaft. Should not be a circuit. If you have continuity the armature is a bad 'un.
Just watching Q3 on Sky+. ha ha Sebastian, where's your finger now...
Not a RB fan!

Yup I'll second what John said, if its the shaft making it live then unless there's an obvious frayed wire hitting it (which is highly unlikely) your pretty much shafted. You could swap the bearing that's crimped into the end with a none conductive one but it would wear quickly.

I'm all for flogging something as much as possible to get it working but you have to draw the line somewhere..

As to Sebastian's finger, no idea where it is but I do know where his thumb was in Q2, right up his

Discovered the problem.
Look at the switch diagrams on the MGF



and Freelander



MGF switched earth; Freelander switched live.

Aha! Makes sense now..... Maybe somrthing to do with the self park?

But that doesn't explain the live casing though does it?

There must be something different on the motor pcb because the original rotor is isolated from the casing and so black is live into motor and blue and red are earths via the stalk switch, hence why there is a resistor in one (to give different motor speeds.)

In the Freelander version, the live feed comes from the stalk switch via red or blue wire and earths through black, so black is also connected to the casing to earth it.

So in the MGF all the circuit within the wiper motor/gearbox is isolated from the casing, and earths via the bolts to the body.

This also explains why the gearbox cover on the mgf is plastic, but metal on the Freelander.

To sum up, it doesn't work.