Topic

Titanium wrote: wrote:

I had the same issue on 3 wheels ! After having tried all the known methods (that are quite dangerous) I developed my own effctive method.
You need a little hydraulic jig (probably the car mech jig should work as well), a wood or steel bar and a belt.
Once removed the 4 nuts refit one nut and screw it in 2-3 turns.
Put the jig stem on the nut (to prevent to damage the thread), the bar and the belt (see picture).... pump.
If you are able to remove the central wheel badge it would be better, you will apply the force in the center,

As soon as you feel the wheel coming loose stop to pump, otherwise you risk to get jammed the wheel on the hub.
Once removed the wheels, clean the rusted surfaces and apply some FEW copper grease on the mating surface

Nice one, and with a photo!

Now that is cunning

My only worry with that method would be pushing the stud in rather than the wheel out.

Rich in Vancouver wrote: wrote:

My only worry with that method would be pushing the stud in rather than the wheel out.

The stud is welded to the hub, so don't worry. The alloy wheel has a steel ring that's usually develop some rust with the hub, but it never weld.
Take care to put a nut on the stud to prevent to damage the thread.
As soon as the wheel will move it becomes free.
If it's the rust bonding is very strong, while the belt sare in tension you can hammer with a big piece of wood on the wheel rim, it will help to break the rust.
The best would be to remove the wheel central badge and apply the force on the hub shaft.

david aiketgate wrote: wrote:

Titanium wrote: wrote:

I had the same issue on 3 wheels ! After having tried all the known methods (that are quite dangerous) I developed my own effctive method.
You need a little hydraulic jig (probably the car mech jig should work as well), a wood or steel bar and a belt.
Once removed the 4 nuts refit one nut and screw it in 2-3 turns.
Put the jig stem on the nut (to prevent to damage the thread), the bar and the belt (see picture).... pump.
If you are able to remove the central wheel badge it would be better, you will apply the force in the center,
As soon as you feel the wheel coming loose stop to pump, otherwise you risk to get jammed the wheel on the hub.
Once removed the wheels, clean the rusted surfaces and apply some FEW copper grease on the mating surface

Nice one, and with a photo!

I posted this picture more than one year ago on the .org forum; someone proposed to include it in the How to do guide. Thanks for your appreciation.

Titanium wrote: wrote:

Rich in Vancouver wrote: wrote:

My only worry with that method would be pushing the stud in rather than the wheel out.

The stud is welded to the hub, so don't worry. The alloy wheel has a steel ring that's usually develop some rust with the hub, but it never weld.
Take care to put a nut on the stud to prevent to damage the thread.
As soon as the wheel will move it becomes free.
If it's the rust bonding is very strong, while the belt sare in tension you can hammer with a big piece of wood on the wheel rim, it will help to break the rust.
The best would be to remove the wheel central badge and apply the force on the hub shaft.

It's good to know the stud is welded. I would have expected it to be splined. This is the great thing about forums, you get to learn from others' experience.
Thanks!

Titanium wrote: wrote:

I had the same issue on 3 wheels ! After having tried all the known methods (that are quite dangerous) I developed my own effctive method.
You need a little hydraulic jig (probably the car mech jig should work as well), a wood or steel bar and a belt.
Once removed the 4 nuts refit one nut and screw it in 2-3 turns.
Put the jig stem on the nut (to prevent to damage the thread), the bar and the belt (see picture).... pump.
If you are able to remove the central wheel badge it would be better, you will apply the force in the center,

As soon as you feel the wheel coming loose stop to pump, otherwise you risk to get jammed the wheel on the hub.
Once removed the wheels, clean the rusted surfaces and apply some FEW copper grease on the mating surface

That is a terrific post and such a good idea, David will no doubt list it in the How To's ~ the use of copper grease on the mating faces should mean that this method it only used ONCE! I also put copper grease on the studs when replacing the wheel nuts and torque them to the correct pressure. thank you again for a great idea

if im honest the main and easiest way is to secure the car on axel stands as low to the ground as possible and them sit down and kick the edges of the tire

it's not subtle but its allot nicer on the car than what a garage would do!

mahnek wrote: wrote:

Car has been sat around for some time, tried removing rear wheel but no joy. Have removed four wheel nuts any sugestions

Please let us all know how you are getting on with removing you rear wheels??