SRS Light!

Nothing useful to add, just tickled by Delbourt's underwear sensor.😜

I had the workshop manual out & I’ve studied both circuit & electrical diagrams, failing to locate this item, can anyone give me a reference number?
I don’t like being left behind on such things, especially as I’m under the car later & I could check for stains whilst there.
Is yellow accessible?
M

Airportable wrote:

I had the workshop manual out & I’ve studied both circuit & electrical diagrams, failing to locate this item, can anyone give me a reference number?

RCL 0342ENG

Airportable wrote:

I don’t like being left behind on such things, especially as I’m under the car later & I could check for stains whilst there.

If SRS leaked you will notice yellow colour, but only with orange glases if you look through them

Airportable wrote:

Is yellow accessible?
M

It is very accessible, especialy if you see it.

SRS fluid testing strips are available, which can help determine what faults might be present in the system:

So if I'm fiddling about under the seat (again) to check that connection, it might be a good idea to wrap a piece of 15mm pipe insulation around the connector to protect it a bit?   Or other quick arrangement that would prevent it whacking something hard?

People use different ways to solve this problem. Some remove the connectors and solder the wires together. Some replace connector for more convinent and more robust.
You can try as you suggested and see how it will behave.

Perishing predictive text! Underwear indeed - supposed to be under seat!

Now back to SRS. I don’t wish to carry spares for every ECU in the car when out and about. But I would like to get home if any of them fail (engine ECU would be an exception)The SRS ECU seems to me to be one that I can do without in exceptional circumstances based on a risk assessment at the time. So if that can be bypassed I’d like to know how. My MGB has nothing of the sort and we manage to get around ok.Back in the early 70s it was different and we did things that I wouldn’t dream of now I’ll give two examples.When descending the loading ramp to cross from the Isle of Skye to the mainland the master cylinder started to fail leaking fluid. We drove that back to Preston without using the brakes more than twice (once to avoid a fallen tree and another in Glasgow or Carlisle - I don’t remember which).The other was a long trip back up north from Cornwall with a damaged wing and misaligned suspension.The point is if it is practical and considered low risk why not bypass SRS if it is possible.So if it can be done I’d like to know how please  

VinceR post=223599 userid=26232So if I'm fiddling about under the seat (again) to check that connection, it might be a good idea to wrap a piece of 15mm pipe insulation around the connector to protect it a bit?   Or other quick arrangement that would prevent it whacking something hard?

Instead of just kicking the can up the road, only to come across the same problem a bit further up the road........why not get out the wire cutters and bin the totally shit wiring connector and replace it with one that is quality, problem sorted for all time!

I can never figure out why people insist on piss farting about with the original poor quality connectors, when the obvious solution is to replace them with something better!

With the added advantage of giving the wiring more length and/or re-routing it to make it easier to connect-disconnect

Well I've done a lot of farting about in my time but in this case I was definitely piss farting about.
One of the round pins in this crappy connector pulled out when I was sound deadening the car. I should have just replaced it then instead of piss farting about! 
So far so good though.
 
 

All this does assume that the connector actually is the fault!  But, always willing to remove a potential problem, I have a number of solid, waterproof 2 way bike connectors that survived a few years rattling about in an engine bay.  They should be adequate.  Added a drop of hot glue gun each end to hold and waterproof + a cable tight to lock the connector shut. Then protect the thing from being bashed and shaken with pipe insulation. 

A couple of things on this. If you have the red SRS connector, change it for the later Rover yellow connector. These are a great improvement & have the advantage of a shorting link, this operates when there is a disconnect. A visit to a scrappy with a stock of 25s 45s or 75s, will turn up the goods.
I would add a picture, however I can’t get this to work.
The second comment is on the SRS controller. I have some of these, both singles & dual. If you are having a problem & wish to substitute another, rather than buy one of eBay, give me a shout & we might be able to arrange something.
I am also looks for a SRS loom (yellow) to allow the testing of these items. Again if you can help give me a shout.
PS I’m trying an alternative way of posting a picture, let see if this works. 
M