The price for those on the forum is £75 including postage, as I said they are on ebay for £75 plus postage
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I have a set of stainless steel VVC engine coolant pipes on eBay, these are No longer available new
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If you read my thread about the clutch problem you will see that it raised its ugly head again last week. Today I made my version of the slave cylinder brace using 8mm rose joints that I also happened to have after a failed attempt at making drop links for the front anti roll bar. At the bellhousing end I used a piece of 40mm angle, nicely shaped with a flap wheel in the angle grinder. My slave cylinder end is totally different due to having 8mm joints, I simply unscrewed one of the mounting bolts and using a longer one just bolted it down with a nut between the joint and the slave cylinder foot. Like Airportable said, if you had the room to see to manufacture and fit it would be just an hours work.
I don't think that one of those cheap turnbuckles will fit, they are simply too long. Looking back now I can see that I should have used the slave cylinder mounting bolt furthest from the bellhousing but even then the distance between mounting bolt and bellhousing face is only 155mm. My mounting bracket at the bellhousing end effectively reduces that length by about 15mm
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An update, every thing was working perfectly until last Wednesday when we drove down to Barnstable then on to Heddons Mouth (near Lyndon and Lynmouth) and the clutch was no longer fully disengaging. My wife was driving with me as passenger and became like it was before. I had a look at it today after finding two rosé joints yesterday, I fitted them in a similar fashion to Airportable. The only difference in the method was due to me having 8mm joints I just used one of the slave cylinder mounting bolts to mount one end. Also because I only had right hand threaded one it was a bit of a fiddle to get it right. There isn’t a lot of room in there!
Due to Ruth going up to Harpenden to look after the grandkids I haven’t been able to bleed the master cylinder yet. A quick test drive confirmed it was working well.
The question is what is going on? I am thinking that the master cylinder is drawing in air and causing the problem. Next week my helper will be back and I will bleed the system again.
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Just in case it is affecting test results the correct firing order is 1 3 4 2. However I don’t think it’s possible to connect them incorrectly the coil pack wiring and plug lead ensures that you get it correctly connected.
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I have grey wheels on our TF by accident! I left the wheels at a local powder coaterwhile we went on holiday asking for them to be coated in graphite. When I collected them they were very well wrapped to protect against damage, I took them to the tyre fitter still with the protection on. When I collected the wheels they were battle ship grey not graphite. The powder coating company refuses to re coat them because I took them away and didn’t complain at the time. My wife hates the grey but while it wouldn’t be my choice of colour it doesn’t look too bad. The compromise at the moment is two grey wheels on the offside and two silver wheels on the near side. I will post a photo of the wheels tomorrow if I remember.
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It was the plug leads, they were new in 2018 (date on leads) but obviously not great quality.
Notanumber and I are fitting MGTF EPAS to MGB’s and the Freelander stalks look more in keeping to the MGB. I hadn’t checked properly and bought stalks from a post 2003 car and there is no dip just a main beam on and off. 20.png
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I have now learnt not to take anything for granted, the problem was under the passenger seat! Last year the problem was obvious, a previous owner had been at it and just twisted bare wires together then a bit of insulation tape. This time when it failed after briefly checking the passenger seat .connection I spent the best part of three hours taking the seat out and checking for wiring problems, when the previous owner did his handy work he shortened the wiring so you couldn't check it without removing the seat. I was also lead astray by a post on another forum that said the seat belt buckles were linked into the SRS system but there wasn't a microswitch to be found. After posting on here I went back to the passenger seat and separated the connector, a bit of contact cleaner and we are back in business.
Because Notanumber and I are playing around with MGTF and Freelander stalks I happened to have a Freelander rotary coupler (squib ring) and despite having different part numbers it fits the TF perfectly, they are cheaper than TF one too!
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After sorting out the engine cutting out problem another one rears its ugly head. The SRS light is now permanently on, I had a problem with it a year ago but it has returned with a vengeance. Last year I replaced the plug and socket with a new one and that cured the problem until now. Today I have removed the drivers seat and checked the plug on the seat belt pretensioner, gage it a gentle wriggle to make sure that it is properly seated. I have checked the wiring under the carpet but it seems okay. I then replaced the seat and tested but the light comes on after briefly going out. The next thing was to replace the rotary coupler (squib ring) and still the light comes on. Has anyone a suggestion? My next move was to replace the wiring from the centre console to the connector under the seat but am hesitating incase I heard from someone with an obvious answer.
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Thank you both for the replies, I was going to swap over the ignition leads and if that failed the coil packs first. I have spares of both, the leads that are fitted were new in 2018.
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The engine in the TF has occasionally taken to cutting out at around 4000 rpm not every time or even every day. The first time it happened to me was soon after the gear cable clip and clutch bleeding problem, I was accelerating up a motorway slip road and when the revs got to around 4000rpm the engine just cut out, when the revs dropped to around 2500rpm it picked up and performed perfectly for the rest of the journey home. For the last week or so I have experimented and it only happens when I accelerate hard, if you don’t floor the accelerator it doesn’t seem to happen. It doesn’t happen every time you accelerate hard either so the previous observation may not be correct. My wife had it happen to her on two occasions before we lost the gear cable clip so I think we can discount any interference to anything when bleeding the slave cylinder. Other than this irritation the TF is running really well, any thoughts?
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