devilheart

I wonder where the MGF with the lowest mileage for sale is....

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/money/cars/article-10116889/Timewarp-1981-MGB-77-MILES-30k.html

Interesting to see that the Daily Telegraph is touting the MGF as a stopgap car, one to invest in while waiting for the delivery of your new car:

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/advice/best-stopgap-cars-buy-now-2021

I’m still in the throes of trying to get the SRS warning light to extinguish on my 1998 MGF. As detailed in another post, I’ve replaced the under-seat connectors, changed the pre-tensioners on both seats and replaced the rotary coupler — the light is still on. That leaves the seatbelt CPU to change. I bought a used unit.

This afternoon, I went to disconnect the battery, before dismantling the central fascia to access the CPU. The bonnet wouldn’t open—no problems before and I lubricated the catch recently. The nipple is still connected at the handle end in the boot. Disconnecting the handle and tugging on the cable using an adjustable Mole wrench and my full 200 lbs (aided by swearing power!) did nothing. I traced the course of the cable along the sill beneath the carpet and tried pulling on the outer in the footwell...nothing.

I’ve scoured forums for advice, reading about accessing the spring and release lever of the catch from beneath the car, using a long-bladed screwdriver. I can see these two parts, but neither looks like it would respond to prodding or being poked sideways; all the same, I’ve ordered a screwdriver with an 18” blade. I’ve also bought a replacement cable.

Prying the edge of the bonnet ajar, I can see the spring and the catch, but they’ve ignored me manipulating and lubricating them.

Old posts on MGF forums, going back to 1996, mention removing the bumper or a headlight to access the catch, but I can’t see how that would help. These posts also fight shy of giving details about how to operate the bonnet catch for reasons of security. Quite frankly, that’s damned silly, as it would require a car thief to be terminally stupid—unless they were in desperate need of a used battery, car jack or jumper cables—which is about all I keep beneath my bonnet.

Any ideas anyone?

Accessing the under-seat connectors involves kneeling beside your MGF, as if in prayer! Use a cushion or knee pads, as you'll be there for some time! A torch will help you see things. As built by the factory the connectors are attached to the frame of the seat by a black plastic clip, but this gets brittle with age and might not be there. The red block connector is in two halves—mine had a tiny amount of slack, so I replaced it with crimped on bullet connectors.

It's often stated on forums that the connector is the commonest cause of the warning light being illuminated, as it's shook about when the seat is adjusted backwards and forward. The previous owner of my 1998 MGF advised me that jiggling the connector would turn off the SRS warning light. It didn't. The wiring should be routed over the silver bar beneath the seat, to minimise disturbance, but it might well not be. Indeed, the wiring beneath the passenger seat of my car was crushed against the carpet beneath the lower frame rail; it looked like it had been that way for 33 years! As there's no airbag on the passenger side, I'm uncertain about whether faulty wiring could activate the light. I've received conflicting advice.

If you decide to remove the seats for easier access, you'll need a Torx socket bit size T50 + lots of patience, as the floor bolts are double the length they need to be. I've replaced both pre-tensioners for a cost of £10 apiece from eBay. Reconnecting the wiring beneath the seat is bothersome, as the wire insulation are different colours—you might think that like would connect to like, but on my car (from memory) Blue/Red connects to Blue/Brown. I read somewhere that making a wrong connection could set off the explosive charge in the pre-tensioner!

Good luck with your block connector(s)...you could be one of those owners for whom a quick jiggle does the job!