deepfat

I think your find LED's in the heads are illegal in our cars, I did a lot of googling and they are OK on older cars like the MGB but not on ours. Something I think to do with "E" markings and the focal point of the bulb maybe diff from the LED therefor not "as tested" and the "E" mark doesn't count. The MGB's and the like fit a full replacement light unit that is presumably "E" marked???
I never thought much of the headlights and upgraded to Nightbreakers which improved them quite a bit, don't worry about the bulbs only being available in HB3 as against the TF's HB3A's, they still fit, I then fitted fogs which light up the verges round here nicely.
Now I have just refurbed a spare set of lights with DRL's which both switchback to work as indicators, I've had them lit up on the bench and think I can now give Blackpool a run for their money. I read all the threads on fitting them but was concerned with certain aspects, I didn't like the idea of the DRL controllers being in the headlight unit as I thought the considerable heat in the light unit might shorten their life. This was compounded by the fact that if the controller failed it would mean taking the lens off again, not something I would be happy about. The 4 DRL's all came with separate controllers with no indication of ratings on them so I contacted the makers (China) to ask and still await an answer months later. The upshot was I fitted the DRL's and rather than take a chance with 2 lights and 1 controller now I will have 2 externally mounted controllers per side which makes the wiring a tad complicated. When I get around to actually fitting them I have a fused relay to turn the DRL's off when the heads are on as legally they must go out or dim with the heads on. Despite all my googling I'm still not 100% sure they are legal and it might depend on the MOT testers idea of legality hence the fused relay, no lights no prob.

This might help you out, it seems its a Cool Blue special edition

To me even given its a dealer it is very strong money for a 135 with 91k on it I'm pretty sure you could do better, I'm also a little bit concerned about driving all over Europe in what will be even by then be a relatively new to you 19 yr old car. Given the probably scarce availability of spare parts in rural Europe by the time you've packed the justin case kit you'll be reduced to a spare pair of speedos and flip flops for yourself. They are great "little" cars but that's the point they are little, OK my Walther PPK will go in the glovebox but what about my DJ?

Airportable, I think you misunderstood my explanation the picture shows my old binnacle and the damaged caused I believe by the expanding fastening. My fix with the good binnacle I sourced was to simply use a dab of contact glue to locate the speed clip behind the square fixing hole inside the binnacle so no glue shows on the outer surfaces at all, I've had the outer trim off a couple of times since and the clips have stayed in place.

I know in your original post you stated the cheaters looked OK (your the one!) but are the windows adjusted correctly?, before pulling the snorkel or attempting to adjust the windows I would try to confirm where the water is coming from. Talc on the door panels and seals may show via the rivulet marks if the door/windows are watertight. I changed my early inlet box for the snorkel and if I recall correctly with the glove box out (easy job) there was quite a bit of room (no AB or AC) so you could possibly stuff some rag/paper towel around the underneath of the snorkel to see if that's the prob, I think stuffing it under the glove box risks it wicking up from the carpet and giving a false reading.
IMHO adjusting the windows is not a skill but an art so before that Da Vinci moment happens stock up on wine/anti depressants as required.

I keep mine outside and went thru all this in the first year of ownership and it was "flipping" trying to say the least. I have a full cover which I use during really bad weather but worry about the damp air trapped under it so most of the time I use just a hood cover and air the interior when poss. My experience is my car although normally watertight can with biblical rain and wind in the wrong direction leak and parking end on to prevailing wind is best.

Another vote against the stupid expanding inserts but being a simple man I just contact glued some speed clips on the back of the binnacle mount to give a clamping action so little chance of splitting, I used contact as if your not spot on with your position of the clip it will give a bit.

I think mine is ash grey? but I do know I found a very good match to touch in using Humbrol model paint my theory was its made for plastic so why not, not sure if they do aerosols but have a look you never know. You can get items scanned and colour matched but A] is it the right paint for plastic B] you will probably have to buy 500mm>1L C] it can be expensive..

If you did that I would gladly cover your costs

I had a quick look on Aus Ebay (AKA Sell Ya Bastard) and its about £8 a can, bargain postage however was £115.00. I might have a go at turning the bastard pic into a label but its awkward as its a flat pic of a round object perhaps cobber could cut one open flatten it and send me a pic
The WD40 were much easier to over label

Call me an old cynic who regularly tricks up cans of WD40 to read WD?? dependant on the recipients birthday I did not believe Start Ya Bastard existed, go ogle confirms it does and now I want a can.
My tractor experience is limited to a MF35, living all my life in London until well into my 50's I semi retire to the country and end up working on a small holding and learnt how to do all the jobs a MF35 can do inc spraying and ploughing (sort of, made the OB's laugh anyway) What really amazed me was these 60/70 year old tractors are still used so widely that you can go into any Agricultural Suppliers and get parts off the shelf for them, if only with my TF.