Sounds like a failed/stuck-open pressure relief valve on the header tank cap. Many on this forum suggest always carrying a spare. "New" ones from less reputable sources have also been known to fail.
did you open the boot/engine cover to look for the source of steam?
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Hi all,
Got the dreaded news today that my TF 135 will not pass the emissions test for an mot pass after my mechanic has tried everything 😭
She needs engine work but what is needed isn't evident until it's opened up, he says it's burning oil that can be smelt. This scenerio was present last year but went through with ",time and effort!"
Obviously you need head gasket change for starters then who knows?
Anyone care to give me cost of rebuilding the engine? I'm tempted to buy another engine but you never know what that's going to throw up I may be buying rubbish for all I know.
Sadly, this is a "How long is a piece of string" Question. My advice would be:
1. Ask your trusted garage to do a compression test + any other tests they think may give an indication of where the fault lies.
2. Have you or they seen any evidence of high oil consumption? (A good K series uses minimal/zero oil)
3. Has Pscan or any other diagnostic software revealed any clues
4. Have you replaced the Cat? Aftermarket cats seem to cause MUCH more difficulty passing emmissions tests than the O.E.M. Catalyst.
If the engine IS the culprit. I suggest you talk to MGFnTF Bitz, who sell "good" secondhand engines. Make sure you give them your current engine number etc. to ensure that the replacement will work with your ECU & wiring harness. Their engine price will give a useful ceiling cost, to suggest to your garage as a maximum repair budget for repair and reassembly of YOUR engine, after they have removed the cylinder head. I would suggest that once the head is off and examined, they SHOULD be able to give a firm quote for repair & rebuild.
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I'll wager TA22GT refers to the Toyota model designation code for the car in his avatar.
T = engine family
A = Celica
22 = series
GT = well...the obvious model name for a high end sports variant
I'm an ex-Toyota mechanic too!
As ever, your information is an EDUCATION!
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No experience with Hillman Hunters, but a big "me too" on Scuba: Most memorable dive was in the Maldives, where I had the privilege of seeing a HUGE Whale Shark cruise by me. I COULD have reached-out and touched it, but did not. One idiot in our group DID, and received the most humungous bollocking afterwards from the dive supervisor. We HAD been told do not touch, apparently it can damage the mucous layer on their scales or some such.
Enjoy the TF!
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Hi TA22GT, Reading your first post was so close to my own thought process (bias pr-Japenese cars, especially Toyotas), plus I ended-up buying a low-mileage, (almost) rust free, Silver 2002TF! Also, I have fitted the 280mm disc conversion, for exactly the same reasons as you!
My Toyota bias probably comes from selling the Burnaston Factory testing equipment for the sheet metal used for the body pressings. I was very impressed by the professionalism of everyone there, having spent a lot of time training them to use the kit.
Hope you continue to enjoy your new "toy". Is you TA22 "handle" your postcode perchance? The SW F owners in the MGCC have some meetings near that Postcode.
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I often see complaints about how hard it is to undo the 3 screws that secure the engine cover at the the front......it's not hard if you use the right tools for the job, in fact it it easy...as easy as shitting the bed and kicking it out with your feet!
A 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket is the answer
Cobber I, in common with everyone else on the Forum, am delighted to hear that you have recovered from your recent Trauma. I will be interested in the upcoming How-To on the Clutch Change. I live at the bottom of a valley and every route out involves a hill-start & rapid acceleration into an all-too-rare gap into heavy traffic on the A30. It is difficult to avoid riding the clutch with a "generous" dose of power, in order to get out into that brief gap in traffic. It is therefore only a matter of time before I will need a clutch change.
I read the post above with interest; I suspect you have an F with no loudspeakers in the T Bar. I think the complaints about difficulty reaching the bolts at the front of the engine cover are from those WITH the deeper speaker housing/T-Bar. See photo below:
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Your harsh suspension will most likely be because the hydra-gas spheres have probably lost all their nitrogen gas charge and have been pumped up with fluid to build up the ride height to compensate. Which bring us to another potential problem with doing a conversion on a MGF..... whereas a car with a conventional suspension system can have stiffer or softer springs easily made and installed to compensate for the inevitable differing weight and balance of the conversion, this may prove difficult with an MGF, as such a TF with it's conventional suspension would be a much more suitable candidate.
I totally agree with Cobber's observations above.
Congratulations on achieving the upgrades you have incorporated. A cheap TF with an engine with HGF maladies would be a good starting-point for your next iteration. You may recall that I visited a couple of years ago with a Silver TF.
I now drive an EV as well as that TF. I found the single-pedal style of driving tricky to get used to, and I had the same thought about brake lights! Now that I AM used to it, I find that it encourages a relaxed and energy-efficient, (= range increasing) driving style.
Good luck with the Land Rover 110!
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Hi Hoverbob, I am surprised that no one else has suggested finding a replacement K series 1.8 block (or complete VVC engine)
I appreciate that presumably you are from somewhere in NZ, given that you asked: "And if anyone knows of people in the Hamilton new Zealand area that can help please let me know!
but even there I suspect that a few MGFs and Rovers fitted with a 1.8 K series must have been either scrapped already, or sitting around unused & un-loved, giving a potential donor for a replacement engine.
You mentioned that there a re scored bores, a snapped engine bolt and (presumably) other horrors on your existing engine.
I would suggest trying to source a replacement "Short" engine, refurbish your existing VVC head, then fit that head to the short block. This would avoid incompatibility of your wiring loom and ECU with a later TF160 head. The block only has sensors for water and oil temperatures to worry about and you could probably swap the relevant parts from your existing (scrap?) block if your wiring loom does not match connectors on the replacement block. IIRC, the bottom end of K series 1.8 non VVC engines is the same as the VVC, though others on this site may know better. I am guessing that if NZ is not a viable source for secondhand K series engines, a trip to Australia, or arranging shipping of something suitable from a source there might be cheaper than sending a block from the U.K. I am sure Cobber or someone else in OZ could suggest suitable sources?
Whatever you decide to do, Good Luck!
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It works and tells the time to within 2 minutes every 24 hours, not bad for 100 years of age.
Should that not read ....2 minutes every 12 hours??
O.k. Nobody likes a smart Ar!e, but I could not resist!
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