Thanks so much for the answers

I belong to several LR forums, both Spanish and British. This MGs one is the liveliest and the nicest of them all.

Regards,
Pedro

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I found this on the Internet:

”The Rover MEMS energises the fuel pump for a few seconds when the key is turned to ignition. It then waits for activity on the crank sensor showing the engine being turned over before it energises the pump again.”

it comes frim someone calling himself Sprocket; constantly, you’ll want to be circumspect as to how much weight you want to give it!!!

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Wrt to your second question, the relay pack for my car (an early one don't forget, '96, chassis number less than 1900) has no discernible digital content whatsoever.

Roverlike: yes hinge wires, I was aware of this issue and have not checked yet. What connected with the engine management goes through this bit of the loom?

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Can I clarify something please?
Under normal circumstances with everything working as it should and turning the ignition on the fuel pump can be heard to run then stop.
Is that because the ECU stops it from pumping or is there an internal pressure switch in the pump that temporarily switches the pump off?

If the latter and connecting 12 volts to the pump then that pressure would need to collapse back through the pump before any further 12 volt supply would have any consequence.

Secondly if you have changed parts associated with the ECU dont these need to be programmed to match other components in the car as illustrated in one of the other topics and posted by “pscan”?

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I’ll be the first to agree with you

I fitted one to a Rover 100 without any difficulties, modifying the buzzer element to suit, with Bruce’s blessing.

https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/3-welcome-introductions-please/99197-hi-i-just-bought-an-mg-tf-from-2003-and-need-some-advice?start=12#209305

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I fitted this kit today and it is superbly thought out. I know there are others on the market but I can only comment on this one.

I already had the engine cover off from yesterday and following the instructions along with the photo's it took about 30 mins up to fitting the sensor on to the expansion tank. I couldn't find my araldite that I had put in a safe space so I used tape for now. Seriously sticky stuff that withstands heat.
The instructions are so clear, the photo's identify where to get a Live feed and an earth and when connecting those up to the sensor and the buzzer the connections all have the right terminal and colour that it's almost impossible to get it wrong.
Turning on the ignition gave a quick bleep to tell me it was working. I had tested that the sensor worked before I stuck it to the tank.
I gave it a good test around twisty roads and a few hard stops on the brakes and am glad to report there were no false alarms.

I do feel I have peace of mind even though when I drive I am always watching the gauges. It's backup if a hose splits and I can try and deal with it before disaster occurs.

When I took the engine cover off the 3 bolts under the T Bar were missing. When I put it back I noticed without them there was quite an air gap at the front. Replacing those bolts has made the cabin so much quieter.

Highly recommend Bruce's kit.

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Laurence J wrote:

Bruce135 low coolant alarm is inexpensive, easy to fit, and on these cars it’s a no brainer!

Just fitted one today. Superb piece of kit.
Laurence the Piper Cone filter is fine. 50 -60  in traffic you don't notice it at all on light throttle...at 70 in 5th it's not moisy at all. When you give it full throttle through the gears it sings but it puts a smile on my face!
 

Bruce135 low coolant alarm is inexpensive, easy to fit, and on these cars it’s a no brainer!

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Try your local motor factor, ECP, GSF etc.had a Lucas reman. unit fitted to mine, no problems.

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I think I’ve only ever bought one new alternator, the rest I have had rebuilt & if the frame was large enough I’ve had uprated twiddly bits put inside.
I can’t recall ever needing to have a reconditioned one reconditioned.
M

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Thermistor temperature coefficient, positive & negative, are on year two syllabus.
Those who have covered year one should read Hughes Electrical Technology, until the rest of year one catch up.
M

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Any competent auto electrician shouls be able to give your alternator a birthday! 

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Thanks, yes, you’re dead right about the effects of corrosion on circuit resistance (and the weird symptoms that can result); having once lived near the sea, I recall only too well how corrosion can affect circuits as every electrical connection soon turned green.  

I stress I know nothing about you lovely cars, but if your MG cars are like my ugly Rover 100 (MEMS 1.6 version), the coolant sensor would have a negative temperature coefficient (NTC), so when cold it has a high resistance (eg 6k), but at 100C the resistance is only around 100 Ohms, and because Pedro’s ECU thinks his engine is hot even when it’s stone cold, his circuit would be indicating a low resistance.   But I stress I know nothing about your cars or whether or not the coolant sensor has an NTC characteristic.

Going back to your observations about high resistance reminded me of how the sea-air corrosion created a high resistance in the high-current starter circuit.    The braided earth bonding cable between the block and the body glowed and fizzled when the key was turned to the start position but nothing else happened.   The corrosion caused a high resistance, so the cable behaved like an electric heater, before crumbling into brown copper oxide powder.   But that was a very small price to pay for the privilege of living by the Moray Firth.

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You could have yours rebuilt at a Lucas/Bosch service centre. It may not be cheaper but you know it will fit

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There is no any sensor providing info to engine ECU regarding fuel presure. On ignition engine ECU will fire fuel pump a fraction of time to build up a pressure in the fuel system to be ready when you turn starter on. Engine ECU will fire fuel pump to build presure by default.
Fuel pump is lubricated by fuel, so you should not let fuel pump to starve from fuel in the tank.

It is alittle bit odd that you do not have 12V with multirelay attached. Have you checked that you have clean contacts on the relay and multiplug?

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Thoughts appreciated please - '96 mk1 1.8

The car conked out a couple of weekends ago and I had to be recovered home.

It was immediately apparent the problem was fuel pump related as I couldn't hear the pump when I turned the ignition on.

I won't lead you through my extensive diagnostic process however this is where I am now:

1. With the ECU relay pack bypassed via a jumper cable in the 8 pin connector there is 12v at the fuel pump connector.  Therefore the wiring and inertial switch would appear to be OK.
2. With the relay pack connected there isn't 12v at the pump.  This despite replacing the relay pack with a second hand one from MGFnTFBitz. (A 970 instead of the 710 originally fitted but I assume they are compatible).
3. The fuel pump will not fire up either with the system rigged as per (1) or with 12v injected directly from a charger.

If your offering 60,000 dollars in definitely selling !
We might work something out.
But not tonight.
M

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sean79 wrote:

I wouldn't exactly say it's utter madness to drive one without it, when everything that can be done has been done (without low level sensor) and she gets driven about 15 miles 6 days a week and a good run out on the 7th day, after I've let her warm up for 20 minutes or so..... If ain't broke, don't fix