RMcB

Hi everyone. My car doesn't seem to have a front, central jacking point?! This is the one marked "1" on the well known drawings. I've attached a photo of how this area looks on my car. What's the jacking advice in this instance?

I just couldn't manage to separate the plastic central part (with the lock) from the bezel, so just masked it off and got stuck-in with (three grades of) steel wool.
The results were so much better than I expected, even although I hate anything remotely bling, the level of "shiny" was spot on. No need for paint - the brushed aluminium look is great.
Sorry if this series of posts is now in the wrong place, and has turned into a blog rather than a "how to", but I thought that others might like to know that good results are very possible without separating the two outer parts of the fuel filler cap.

No, not a 500, a pretty run-of-the-mill 2003 135.

It's prising those parts apart (the aluminium ring and the black plastic centre, that seems tricky.

Hi, I thought that I'd make a start on tarting-up the metal bezel on my filler cap. I plan to respray rather than polish, but I couldn't separate the bezel from the plastic inner part. There are four tabs on the inside, which I can disengage, but the two parts are still very much connected. I'm missing something. Any tips?

I'm a new TF owner, and still finding my way with what's normal, and what's a 'special feature' of my own car.
It has these velcro tabs, one on each side on the hood, above each side window. What am I supposed to be doing with them?
My hood has a glass window, and I've been told (not confirmed) that it's a pretty good replacement hood by MGF Mania?!
Thanks.

Airportable wrote:

So can we assume the rotary coupler that was installed was fine for the intended vehicle but not compatible with the tf.

Exactly! Warning bells should have sounded when I took the steering wheel off, and the rotary coupler was sparklingly clean, when everything else that I've been in at has had 20 years of dust and dirt on it!

Thanks for all your help. All is well with the horn now thanks to the great advice and knowledge on this forum.

Quick recap:
- Bought TF, horn doesn't work ( airbag seems fine though)
- Changed all relays, no change.
- Consulted this form, changed MFU (no change), bought wrong rotary coupler.
- Consulted this forum again, and realised that the rotary coupler in the car physically fits, but is the wrong one.
- Changed rotary coupler to the correct one - peep peep! Hooray!

- Two weeks ago knew nothing about nothing. Now I know a bit about MG TF Lucas electrics.
- How did the car pass an MOT without a working horn six weeks before I bought it? Was it broken and inexpertly "repaired" in the intervening six weeks?

Thank you all again who contributed. I'm sure that I will continue to try to alleviate my ignorance on this forum.

Hi again everyone. The mystery of the non-functioning horn continues. I bought a replacement rotary coupler. I bought the wrong rotary coupler! But re-looking of the photos this evening, the part number of the part that was already fitted to the car (on the right of the photo?doesn't seem to match those available on eBay. I'm confused. What part number do o I actually need? Is it possible that the previous owner was in there before me and fitted the wrong part, meaning that the airbag (appears) to work properly, but the horn doesn't?

Hello again. I ordered a replacement MFU. It arrived very quickly this afternoon, and I had it fitted within the hour. Still no horn.
Can it still be the rotary coupler, when the SRS light comes on and goes off exactly as you'd expect?

Thank you Airportable, that's very useful indeed.

I think that I mustn't have been clear about the SRS light though. I seems to work fine - I have no reason to suspect that the airbag is malfunctioning. The reason I mentioned it is that I understand that usually if the rotary coupler is broken, the SRS light will show.

I'm off to hunt for a MFU now...