Thanks for confirming that David. I'm glad I correctly read the diagram.

Checked continuity across fuse 23 and its golden. Getting 12v on the purple line so i'm assuming this is a component [fuel pump] problem not a power/wiring problem. Ordering a new £50 fuel pump off the ebay.

@Notanumber My post is very confusing and could use some more detail: The cars been pumping fuel to the engine. Last month I'd seen it pump fuel into a jug and had the injectors out to check spray pattern. What I didn't have was a fuel pressure gauge which [and this is a theory] would have told me the fuel pump was slowly dying [not providing enough pressure]. I dismissed the pump as an issue cuz I found it hard to believe as pump was only 2 years old BUT I did have a faulty alternator in the summer which caused odd behavior with the lights and radio. Maybe that's caused its death?

Its good to hear from Cobber that a failing fuel pump can cause all sorts of problems. I'd, again, dismissed it as an issue thinking: "its either working or broken as its only a motor". I now guess the commutator could have burned out a bit but not completely causing a slowly dying pump leading to lower and lower fuel pressure .

Anyway, currently the car doesn't start (only cranks with sparks) and that's definitely partly or fully caused by no fuel going from the fuel pump. This post was to establish if its just the fuel pump or it could be multiple things. I'm going with a replacement pump and seeing what happens.

You guys, as always, have been stupid helpful and patient and appreciate that tremendously.

As I understand it the relay is within the Lucas MFU. Have you checked fuse 7 under the bonnet ?

Link to the T bar's electrical diagrams https://www.the-t-bar.com/community/downloads/category/5-electrical-diagrams

Check the SRS yellow connections to and from the clock spring. Also check if the horn works as that runs using another pair of wires within the clockspring spool. .. These things can be a problem if they are rotated whilst off the car as the internal wires are fragile and can break if stretched by too many turns. Best take off the car (with battery disconnected) and check the clockspring for continuity. Fortunately 2nd hand ones are usually available if it is shagged

The pump works on battery voltage so the bypass you have done just provided it with battery voltage which it is designed to run on. Did it make any positive difference starting the car with the bypass wire in place ?

Hi there,
The spray of water didn't work. Checked the pump and it works. So the issue was the Wiper, Turn Signals/Indicators, Lights Switch Unit. Then i bought another one and replaced it.
I disconnected the battery 2 hours before starting the replacement.
Now the spray water works but the SRS light doesn't turn off.
I did the operation all over again, thinking I had done something wrong.
But nothing has changed.
Can someone help me?

sworkscooper wrote:

Well I think that you might have diagnosed the problem and it really does not need a speculative answer to A or B.

In this rather odd case I do need a speculative answer. I've no money to maintain and would like to move it either to the scrap heap or another buyer.

I.e. if its A I've shorted it out (by linking the positive terminal to the purple/white wire) wire and the original issue is something else (and the fuel pump is an extra fix) then i'll scrap it.

If its B then its just a case of the fuel pump slowly dying then I'll get a replacement then I'll get it MOT'd. Then sold.

@Cobber The car has been run (for 30 minutes) every 2 weeks for the entire time its been stored until it fully died last month. It got progressively worse to the point where it would die when you tried to pull away but would happily idle. No stuttering or misfires for the duration. I've kept it on life support until the weather warmed up and now im trying to fix it.