Hi guys, I've managed to acquire the use of a pit and workshop next Saturday and am going to change my radiator and replace the rusty coolant pipes for nice new stainless steel ones courtesy of Mike Satur. However, whilst I'm at it I intend to change oil,filter and plugs, and as you may know from my past posts I would like to fit a 2mm flow restrictor (coolant) between the inlet manifold and the 'T' piece before the expansion tank, my problem is, just what would be suitable, I can't find one readily available anywhere and wondered if anyone on here could suggest something suitable.
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Many moons ago my missus had a bmw mini that was chipped, had induction kit and full s/steel exhaust system.
She ran it on V power or equivalent premium fuel and it ran sweet.
Once she had to put "normal" fuel in it and it ran like a dog!!
Back on V power and it was fine.
At the time I had a corsa C 1.8sri with just a McDonald's spec spud cannon and a drilled airbox with panel filter (don't ask ) with standard ecu and I tried a tank of V power and it was really bad performance wise.
When I had my vvc I put a tank of it through and although it didn't gain anymore power it seemed to run better when reverted back to regular petrol so my thoughts are it's good as a one off unless chipped and tuned stick to normal fuel but stick some in now and again.
Also, many many many moons ago I had a Morris marina 1.3hl that wouldn't run on esso fuel!!
Any other fuel and it was fine but put esso in and it'd cough n fart and wouldn't go above 70mph.
The above link covers the subject in wonderful detail.
in essence (see what I did there?) the car is set up for 95ron at best. The only advantage of higher grade fuel is the 'possibly' better additives.
So my advice is used a good quality 95 ron unleaded.
This post over on the F-Reg made me decide what fuel to put in our car:
If you're taking the headlamp glass off you may want to Trophy-ise the headlamp surrounds. It really improves the look, imho.
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If you make it a date in May next year, we'll possibly be in as we're normally down that way.
Ok. Let me see what dates are good for us and report back on this. Whats the average number of cars that come to the events?
I've split this out to keep things neat. OCD,
Thanks Paul - was meaning to update this since I found out yesterday.
I've updated the first post with the new link
So I have had the car almost a week now, and I have managed to get a couple of little jobs done on it -
Fitted new wiper blades (cost me under £6 for a pair!) as the ones fitted to it were too small and hardly cleared any of the windscreen!
Then last night when I got in from work, I decided to change the hood! (so i now have 2 spare ones! on good frames) took me about 40 minutes, and I coerced my Dad into lending me a hand with putting the new hood on, mainly to stop me damaging anything as I lifted it in.
There are a few more jobs that I plan to do/have done over the coming few months, some are more urgent than others -
Tyres - swap out the mixture of tyres on the car for at least matching pairs on the same axels
Driver side door - adjust the glass since fitting the new hood.
OS Headlight - replace the glass as I noticed a stone chip/hole in the glass last night
Bodywork - OSR panel seems to be the only panel that has any rust on it, so will look into getting this treated over the winter.
- Clean / treat the hood to ensure maximum longevity / waterproofing.
Mechanicals - Over the winter I will get a full service, inc Cam Belt / Waterpump
So in short, it will likely be easier and cheaper to just buy a TF160 haha
I hate electrics, absolutely hate them, I'll play with spanners until the cows come home but will not touch electrics. My brain just doesn't work that way. I see the pile of wires and shut down!
Myself and a mate put a 160 in the front of a metro (from a write off!) a couple of months ago.
As simple as dropping the frames and swapping them over?
Not a 100% on the F as opposed to the TF but things you would need to check are:
The VVC control has extra wiring so you would need the VVC engine harness and matching ECU, plus you would need to check that the extra wires are in your chassis loom from the engine harness to ECU plug. Note that the ECU may be security matched to the BCU so that would need to be changed as a matched pair, unless you have access to the T4 to have it re-programmed.