How would one carry a spare wheel with one as noticed it was aproblem in the post. Is this solvable with out major hassle or surgery?
Edit:- Should have added that the bonnet on "Elsie" my VVC needs repainting anyway so something is going to have to happen, re-spraying or replacing, early next year.
If you don't duct then you can carry a spare wheel, but you would need very fine mesh otherwise the wheel would be visible.
I have ducted mine, but it is a one off as it is mostly welded into the engine bay, with a removeable section, which allows me to carry a spare wheel.
The bonnets are custom made on a one to one basis.
He is currently making me a Carbon Fibre bonnet, which he said should be ready in the New Year.
If you would like a bonnet, then let me know, but it is money up front and could take around 6 months depending on what other work he has on.
Its ok found the answer on google search .
t5 286 wedge led lights for those who are interested .
bought a pack of ten super bright blue leds for 2.99 off ebay
bought 2 x 501 blue led super bright lights for the rear view mirror lights
and 2 x 37mm festoon 6 led super bright lights for the footwell .
will post pictures once all fitted hooefully next weekend after ive done the front brakes
If you do get it, Would be handy if could do a pin out map.
I've got the instruments but no loom
Ooh cool. Now I'm more tempted!
Yes Leigh, off topic we all know you a dog lover ,survived a trip to groomers for billys first birthday tonight,suprisingly he loved it.
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Adam the early TFs share the same fusebox,the lucas one from the mgf.The wiring loom will not fit into this fusebox.
[File Attachment: LOOMBOX.jpg]
In 2003 the fusebox was changed smaller bladefuses and wired directly into shell loom apposed to the old one which was plugged into loom.
The wiring loom does plug into this fusebox as pictured.
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Ive looked on ccjs bulb guide which is great but there is no mention or link to the type of bulb needed for the dash board / instrument panel.
any help or info would be much aporeciated
Ooh - they just plug in? The ad says they don't!
On the ZS180 the fan comes on at 102', it runs a Siemens 2000 ECU so might be programed differently.
The rad fan should come on if you unplug the brown coolant sensor as the ECU can't see the coolant temp.
Seems they're plug n play on the later uk mgtfs.
Was thinking of them for the missus's 1998 'F but don't fancy butchering the wiring.
Did anyone manage to wire a set of these in to an MGR TF?
Just listed a 2nd set with wiring loom and matching centre console clocks.
Sounds like it may have been the battery. Fingers crossed
I would take the bumper off, not difficult, unlike subframe bolts removal.
This sound quite similar to the problem I have with my mk1 F.
My gauge hardly reads anything any longer but I know that the water temp gets up to 90deg fairly quickly (pscan) and stays there while the car is moving. However, at standstill, it goes up to 100 but the fan doesn't cut in. I've changed the relay but that hasn't worked but if I short the relay the fan comes on.
I suspect my gauge problem is the sensor, which I've had two abortive attempts at changing!
The rad fan is something else that I haven't worked out yet.
I'll be interested to see what you find
Exactly what CR41G has said, Also worth checking the ends/connections of the earth lead between the gearbox and bulkhead for fraying or dirty connections.
Took the battery back and have been given a one on loan until they ascertain whether there is a fault with the battery or not. Fitted loan one and the car fired up straight away. Quick spin around the block. Parked up and car started again no problem. I'll see how it goes over the next few days. Spoke to the garage earlier today and they say they checked the connections to the starter motor when it was last in and they don't think it'll be the alternator....altho I'm not ruling out any possibility.