Replacing expansion tank

I've seen the how to but I don't have ramp or axel stands to get to the bleed point on the underside that's why was asking if could do it without bleeding if clamped well 

Thank you, much appreciated 

Since you are going to this trouble, you are of course fitting a low coolant alarm if not already fitted, and if fitted are fitting a tank suitable with the low coolant alarm.
NO iif's or buts.....or sooking about cost! A low coolant alarm is essential for our cars, It is utter madness to try and run our cars without on fitted, the cost is nothing compared the the cost of not having one! you have been told........stay told!
There are several available, one of our members offers one that is highly regarded, I myself have run the excellent Browns & Gammons Low coolant alarm for over 10 yrs without any trouble.
Failure to head this advice WILL result in a dismissive I told you so! Do not set yourself up to be a victim!

Why do you need to get under the car to bleed the system?
The 6mm bleed on the water rail is accessible after removing the engine bay cover.
The rad and heater bleed points are from the front bonnet.
If you are not disturbing the hose on the engine other than at the tank why do you need to get underneath?

Are you confusing the bleed points with the drain plug?  The bleed points are all accessible from above, as I said check the procedure in the how tos, or the workshop manual also downloadable from this site in the libary section

Most definietly fit a low coolant alarm if you have not already got one. BuceTF135 on here does a very inexpensive and foolproof one which fits to the existing expansion vessel, that several of us have. Other types are available

sean79 wrote:

I have recently discovered a small crack in the expansion tank...... I have bought a new one but is it possible to change it without having to bleed the system if I clamp the pipes soon as I take them off? 
Thanks 

As said previously, you don't need to drain down the system to change the expansion vessel, as it is the highest part in the cooling system.

• Start by draining, sucking, or syphoning the coolant out of the vessel. 
• Undo the two screws that hold the tank in position. 
• You can then lift it even higher before removing the two pipes and keeping them held up. 
• Fit the new tank and reconnect the pipes.  
• Replace the coolant.
• It would be sensible to bleed the 3 points referred to above.

As also mentioned previously, I can do you a better than eBay deal on a low coolant alarm.  Just send me a private message.

Yeah sorry, was totally confusing it and wording wring due to alcohol consumption 🤣🤣

Thank you 

I wouldn't exactly say it's utter madness to drive one without it, when everything that can be done has been done (without low level sensor) and she gets driven about 15 miles 6 days a week and a good run out on the 7th day, after I've let her warm up for 20 minutes or so..... If ain't broke, don't fix

sean79 wrote:

I wouldn't exactly say it's utter madness to drive one without it, when everything that can be done has been done (without low level sensor) and she gets driven about 15 miles 6 days a week and a good run out on the 7th day, after I've let her warm up for 20 minutes or so..... If ain't broke, don't fix
 

No of course you're right..........until you're wrong, and you will be!
Just fit a low coolant alarm, or suffer the consequences of you're tight arsed false economy.
I'm looking forward to saying "I told you so"
This is a case of
if it ain't broke it soon bloody well will be!
And don't give me the bullshit "Originality" line..... keeping it totally original will be keeping all the totally original problems.

Bruce135 low coolant alarm is inexpensive, easy to fit, and on these cars it’s a no brainer!