Sign In   Register
  • Page:
  • 1

Topic

rogue wire 2 weeks 4 days ago #206355


Afternoon all.
I discovered this connector today, poking out from underneath the hood.
Everything seems to work ok, It may be from an accessory fitted by a previous owner, but I thought I would ask.
Any ideas?
Attachments:

Please Log in to join the conversation.

rogue wire 2 weeks 4 days ago #206356

Those wires are for the heated rear window. I am guessing that your f or TF was never fitted with an HRW, but I believe that ALL cars had the wiring "ready to go" for an HRW. A switch & a solenoid have to be installed to "Wake up" those wires, so unless you buy a hardtop or fit a glass rear window with heating (which my "new" one has), and I believe all rear glass screens all have.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

rogue wire 2 weeks 4 days ago #206357

Thank you.
That explains why everything is working.
I dont think I will be fitting a glass rear window soon, so I will ignore it.
I noted previously the heated rear window when fitted runs to the 30A fuse that powers the cooling fan, I may be wrong, but I did wonder if that fuse then would be uprated, I lost a cooling fan once with disastrous results on another car, because the manual under rated the fuse when attached also to the full beam.
Happy days.
Much obliged for the reply.
The following user(s) said Thank You: EllisoJo

Please Log in to join the conversation.

rogue wire 2 weeks 4 days ago #206367

A couple of days ago Roverlike posted an updated fuse box layout, I didn’t study it, there was no point, I have yet to see a contribution from him that is anything other than spot on. In my experience fuse boxes, fuse values & fuse quality are a minefield. An owner having substituted an incorrect value of fuse in an attempt to “get them home” & who subsequently fails to amend with the correct rating will inevitability be faced with either a plague of fuse failures if a lesser value is used, or a car full of acrid smoke as a loom burns out if too high a value is chosen (silver paper!)
Most of us will have acquired our cars after they had been through a number of hands & potentially any number of modifications.
I would recommend reviewing the values installed & to replace the inevitability vacant spaces where the spares used to live; I would also recommend using branded makes. OEM fused on our cars we’re made by Littlefuse, although expensive in a sea of crap, these were chosen for a good reason. They fail when they should.
I tested an oddments box of nondescript makes & if 20% failed in accordance with the manufactured spec’, that would be it.
As well as colour coding Littlefuse print the fuse values on the visible edge of the cartridge; very useful if you can’t remember that a 10a is red.
You can buy them on eBay although expensive in comparison, however I trot off down to my pet scrappy & empty fuse boxes of useful values. A couple of quid would keep me going through any number of experiments.
And you might just find out why your fans aren’t working, before anything fiscally enhanced occurs.
M

Please Log in to join the conversation.

rogue wire 2 weeks 4 days ago #206373

  • Cobber's Avatar
  • Cobber
  • Away
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
  • '97 MGF 1.8 MPI
  • Posts: 2696
  • Thanks: 903
Back in the days when most cars had the old style cylindrical glass fuses and they were mounted under the dash, a mate of mine (who as an electrical engineer should’ve known better) had a blown fuse, he found that a .22 calibre bullet fitted the fuse holder, and he replaced the blown fuse with it.
I noticed this when crawling under the dash in order to fix something else that had shit it’s self, and when I asked him why it was there he was very proud of his hack….his beaming smile of pride soon disappeared when I pointed out the fact the the heat generated by an electrical problem sufficient to blow a fuse could potentially cause the bullet to cook off…… not exactly what you want with the fuse box conveniently located in close proximity to your blue veined larikin!
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Last edit: Post by Cobber.

rogue wire 2 weeks 4 days ago #206377

You’re sounding much better!
There’ll be a good number on here who will be happy about that.
M

Please Log in to join the conversation.

rogue wire 2 weeks 3 days ago #206379

Can I question “larikin”, I understood it was an Australian youth of boisterous uncultured temperament.
In your context you imply the shooting through of an important male member. We’ll aimed & you would be able to piss out of three holes.
Just an observation.
M

Please Log in to join the conversation.

rogue wire 2 weeks 3 days ago #206380

  • Cobber's Avatar
  • Cobber
  • Away
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
  • '97 MGF 1.8 MPI
  • Posts: 2696
  • Thanks: 903
Larikin: the modern usage and meaning: a bit of a scallywag, a roudy, unconventional young buck, good hearted, likeable, who doesn’t care for heirs and graces, a bit of a shit stirrer, but has a rough charm.

Yes you are correct about the term: “blue vein larikin” the expression originated from none other than Barry Humpries…who else could coin such a delightful euphemism for a gentleman’s sausage?
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
The following user(s) said Thank You: Airportable

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Last edit: Post by Cobber.

rogue wire 2 weeks 3 days ago #206384

If only all car related threads could end in a Barry Humphries quote.
A sensible reminder about the fuses, AP.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Airportable

Please Log in to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
Time to create page: 0.112 seconds
© 2024 The-T-Bar.com All Rights Reserved. Hosted By SEBS IT