Topic

Hi all

I have recently attempted to repair the Pektron CL relay and after successfully fitting a new one the CL remains dead. This car has had upgraded CL fitted to the doors by myself as it’s a 2004 115 . The wiring harness is compatible but assume that the Pektron now needs the CL activating…. To this end…..

I have given up on this route and want to keep costs down and will be fitting a cheap aftermarket CL kit instead.
This comes with the key fobs and wiring. I’m aware I’ll effectively have two fobs one for the immobiliser and one for CL but have no issues with this as the addition of CL is batter than the extra lump in me pants ( pardon me…)

My question is: the drivers door has two connectors. A six pin with six wires and a two pin with two wires.
Which of these connectors or wires go to the solenoid?
Is there a decent wiring diagram about for this area of the car?

Cheers

Look in community - downloads for wiring diagrams.

Thanks David.
Sometimes I can’t find things as my eyes get in the way…

Would you report on how you go on with this. I’ve often wondered about tying an app driven Bluetooth receiver to allow my wife to get into the car if I’ve wandered off & failed to returned when she gets back from shopping. I have a coded lock release on the boot for the same reason & to do the whole lot with an app would be useful.
Thanks. Mike

Of course, will do..

Apart from the car wiring diagram, there is some good information here regarding the wiring of the door lock switches. It is posted by Technozen who is the guru when it comes to all things Pektron.

Airportable wrote:

<<<snip>>> to allow my wife to get into the car if I’ve wandered off & failed to returned when she gets back from shopping.<<<snip>>>

get a second remote fob.

Mgtf04 wrote:

<<<snip>>>The wiring harness is compatible but assume that the Pektron now needs the CL activating…. To this end…..

<<<snip>>>

Ask www.technozen.co.uk

Yeah I agree with Talking cars on this, getting another fob and just get the CL reactivated, as whole lot simpler, quicker and more than likely cheaper than buggerising about trying to add aftermarket components

You are obviously correct in this & I’ve a spare fob & key, plus’s a working board, the key & fob are in the key safe at the insistence of my wife & the board is, is, is somewhere. The system I’m playing with I had lashed up on the bench & any phone with the correct app & code would be able to open the door.
With the unfathomable skewed logic of the female who elect to carry around what is in effect a tote bin with handles, where anything gets thrown in & which then get lost to this dimension, the same would go for an extra set of keys.
As most people are now inseparable from their phones & where folk use them to pay large sums with little more than a flick of wrist an obscure coded app would be more secure than most of the “proximity” keys used with some vehicles.
Integrating the hardware, once it’s reliability is verified, is straight forward, I’m hardly trying to install a radiogram, 12v supply & however many controlled outputs I elect to use.
Cobber has commented on several occasions about reliability issues with add ons & he is for the most part correct, however you’d be hard pushed to notice any of my modifications, yet from bumper to bumper I have changed or included things to suit me & the purists would be horrified but they’ve got their cars & I’ve got mine. I find designing & making these devices, both mechanical & electronic stimulating, using my skills long after my useful cut off point where I’m pensioned off & industry had presented me with clock.
I’m skilled with the plane & the lathe & the soldering iron, it’s cheaper than going to the pub or out for a meal & from my wife’s perspective she has the added advantage of her knowing just where I am.
To add credence to this I add a picture of a job I did a couple of weeks ago which is in & working nicely.