Topic

Hi all

I have recently attempted to repair the Pektron CL relay and after successfully fitting a new one the CL remains dead. This car has had upgraded CL fitted to the doors by myself as it’s a 2004 115 . The wiring harness is compatible but assume that the Pektron now needs the CL activating…. To this end…..

I have given up on this route and want to keep costs down and will be fitting a cheap aftermarket CL kit instead.
This comes with the key fobs and wiring. I’m aware I’ll effectively have two fobs one for the immobiliser and one for CL but have no issues with this as the addition of CL is batter than the extra lump in me pants ( pardon me…)

My question is: the drivers door has two connectors. A six pin with six wires and a two pin with two wires.
Which of these connectors or wires go to the solenoid?
Is there a decent wiring diagram about for this area of the car?

Cheers

Look in community - downloads for wiring diagrams.

Thanks David.
Sometimes I can’t find things as my eyes get in the way…

Would you report on how you go on with this. I’ve often wondered about tying an app driven Bluetooth receiver to allow my wife to get into the car if I’ve wandered off & failed to returned when she gets back from shopping. I have a coded lock release on the boot for the same reason & to do the whole lot with an app would be useful.
Thanks. Mike

Of course, will do..

Apart from the car wiring diagram, there is some good information here regarding the wiring of the door lock switches. It is posted by Technozen who is the guru when it comes to all things Pektron.

Airportable wrote:

<<<snip>>> to allow my wife to get into the car if I’ve wandered off & failed to returned when she gets back from shopping.<<<snip>>>

get a second remote fob.

Mgtf04 wrote:

<<<snip>>>The wiring harness is compatible but assume that the Pektron now needs the CL activating…. To this end…..

<<<snip>>>

Ask www.technozen.co.uk

Yeah I agree with Talking cars on this, getting another fob and just get the CL reactivated, as whole lot simpler, quicker and more than likely cheaper than buggerising about trying to add aftermarket components

You are obviously correct in this & I’ve a spare fob & key, plus’s a working board, the key & fob are in the key safe at the insistence of my wife & the board is, is, is somewhere. The system I’m playing with I had lashed up on the bench & any phone with the correct app & code would be able to open the door.
With the unfathomable skewed logic of the female who elect to carry around what is in effect a tote bin with handles, where anything gets thrown in & which then get lost to this dimension, the same would go for an extra set of keys.
As most people are now inseparable from their phones & where folk use them to pay large sums with little more than a flick of wrist an obscure coded app would be more secure than most of the “proximity” keys used with some vehicles.
Integrating the hardware, once it’s reliability is verified, is straight forward, I’m hardly trying to install a radiogram, 12v supply & however many controlled outputs I elect to use.
Cobber has commented on several occasions about reliability issues with add ons & he is for the most part correct, however you’d be hard pushed to notice any of my modifications, yet from bumper to bumper I have changed or included things to suit me & the purists would be horrified but they’ve got their cars & I’ve got mine. I find designing & making these devices, both mechanical & electronic stimulating, using my skills long after my useful cut off point where I’m pensioned off & industry had presented me with clock.
I’m skilled with the plane & the lathe & the soldering iron, it’s cheaper than going to the pub or out for a meal & from my wife’s perspective she has the added advantage of her knowing just where I am.
To add credence to this I add a picture of a job I did a couple of weeks ago which is in & working nicely.

For my own humble opinion, you don’t need to validate your own competence as most of us have the level of intelligence to gauge whether to begin a project and our own capacity to learn and successfully make mods. Those who consider it “buggerising” are making assumptions of being inept.
I humbly assume if my skills were good enough for a Royal Navy warship then can cope with the complexities of the MG.
I myself can assure you all that at no point in the near future, am I considering placing my genitals into the electrical system of my car.
Although I am not standing in the way of anyone who wishes to try this mod themselves… ⚡️🌭

My own mods are deliberated from the fact that the relays are themselves useless and persistently break down and even after repair it’s recommended to every five years or so have them checked. So this weighed against my own “buggerising” was weighed against this, as in, what’s less reliable a fix? Am I making it worse?
Anyways, I fitted this and have deactivated the immobiliser too today. So have one key and a working C\L on both doors now and a much better and user friendly key fob.

Having spent a fair part of my working life as a civilian contractor building, refitting and repairing naval vessels for the RAN, and even one for the USN, I found and fixed the results of much buggerising.
Even did some of the buggerising myself, at the request (insistence) of the Navy brass as they knew better, and were determined for the major modifications to be made……we told ‘em it wouldn’t work but they insisted, so we did it and the results were as we said they’d be…….a buggered ship!
I can think of three ships that were permanently severely operationally compromised in this way, two of them dangerously so, and all at great expense too.
Fortunately all three ships have since been paid off and have probably been broken up for razor blades by now, which is about all they were good for once “refitted”