Topic

Out at first light this morning keen to put the engine cover back on the tf after its recent change of spark plugs and coil packs...the last time I put the cover on I noticed those little pins getting stiff and out came my m6 tap to tap out all the holes...the 2 m8 ones done earlier..I got out the little m6 tap and a tap wrench and soon realised I could only tap out a few with this type of tap wrench has room was scarce.

So I used a snapon 3/8 drive tap socket
Which made the job easier.

The holes under the t bar were done from the underside.

After a very short while all was done and I replaced the cover...some of the pins had crappy threads so in my stainless pin box I found plenty of m6 allen key button heads..that's metric 6mm thread size and needs a 4mm allen key to drive them.

the threads on these were perfect and they went in easy but there was no way I could get my fingers on the button heads under the t bar ....so I went to use 3 of the original hexagon head
pins...damn I messed about for a while and struggled and thought there has got to be a easier way...I didn't want to skimp on engine checks because you get that feeling...don't yer..the one that niggles you..bugger the engine cover.
So off came the t bar simple enough job..and after speaker removal I drilled some large holes in the t bar and removed all swarf.this picture shows the holes drilled and speakers back in place.

After this the t bar is placed back loose and allen key inserted to check allignment...This allen key does not interfere with the close speaker on the hole pictured but you will feel the allen key attracting to the speakers magnet

And careful measurement taken to drill the t bar cover..this is the cosmetic part you don't want to damage..small pilot hole was made first and the cover and t bar fitted for pupose of allignment.

The allen key is 4mm and is a long one from my set...at this point with the t bar cover fitted I realised the allen key needed to be longer so a 4mm rod was used for allignment checks untill my longer allen key arrives in the morning.
After I was sure every thing was ok I had to decide on the size of the holes that were drilled into the t bar cover..after all you want them looking neat so a plug or insert for the hole needs to be sourced..
I chose a size which is the same has the trim inserts that are used on the central locking door pins...because this is what I used to finish the holes..

Final picture a tidy fitment for the allen key to go straight down through the t bar and undo/ tighten those 3 pins in seconds.

Don't know if this has been done before but I'm pleased with the result has I've saved my self valuable time and effort for future engine checks and hopefully helps others..I used stainless allen key button head pins..put mild steel ones could be sourced ...maybe with a magnetic tip on the end of the allen key would help even more....

That's a great idea . I might be doing this as the threads under my T bar are getting a bit ropey .

John

sworkscooper wrote: wrote:

That's a great idea . I might be doing this as the threads under my T bar are getting a bit ropey .

John

Having a MG-R Mk2 roll hoop kit fitted, the access to these screws are a bit fiddly for me, I only have one out of the three fitted to my cover under the t-bar, the central one.
The screws have a 8mm hex head so I can get to it ok with an open ended spanner.

When tapping threads, nine times out of ten I use a cordless drill with the torque dialled down on it and on its slower speed, and work the tap in and out until the thread is cut.
I think in 30 years of doing it this way, I have only busted two taps, and being in engineering, I regularly use threading gear.
Of course if access is limited then tap wrenches, or even a spanner have to be used.

Sundance

On the subject of roll hoops are they all cosmetic or can you buy a reinforced t bar....never seen how roll hoops attach..but after removing the t bar for the first time..my thoughts are a piece of wood would be stronger has the t bar is made of tin...in other words roll hoops offer the same protection has a Cadbury crunchie....

or is there something else holding them on...I would feel better with all the pins originally intended to fasten the cover on in place..because after all that is a safety measure and has you know intended to keep nasty fumes from entering the cockpit....not seeing a t bar gives you the impression of a strong crossmember that you can bolt safety feature to....but in reality a badge bar for mounting badges on vintage cars would be harder to snap in half.

Ah seen these different types ..which one gives protection.

I think it's important to have fast access to the engine...not a big deal taking the engine cover off in your own garage and at your own leisure...but at the side of the road it not fun....anyone else got any quick access ideas....I did ponder on a idea of leaving the 3 pins under the t bar out all together and having a screw able clamp system..pressing down on the engine cover..but I think this would be better with a t bar made from box section..so the clamps./..miniture jacks have something to press on.

mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

On the subject of roll hoops are they all cosmetic or can you buy a reinforced t bar....never seen how roll hoops attach..but after removing the t bar for the first time..my thoughts are a piece of wood would be stronger has the t bar is made of tin...in other words roll hoops offer the same protection has a Cadbury crunchie....

or is there something else holding them on...I would feel better with all the pins originally intended to fasten the cover on in place..because after all that is a safety measure and has you know intended to keep nasty fumes from entering the cockpit....not seeing a t bar gives you the impression of a strong crossmember that you can bolt safety feature to....but in reality a badge bar for mounting badges on vintage cars would be harder to snap in half.

Ah seen these different types ..which one gives protection.

I think the amount of decent protection most of the hoops offer is negligible, however the MG=Rover Mk.1 and 2 hoops are very substantial and bolt to the seatbelt anchorage points. The brackets are pretty solid and the bolts are M12 or M14 so pretty decent.
If the car does roll they will offer some kind of protection, I think there is one case of a F or TF rolling with these hoops on, and the driver swears that they helped. Not sure where the thread was, but some of the guys on here may recall it.
MG-R Mk 2's (the ones that do not lean forward) are the ones that you can fit with a glass rear window, however you do have to lose the speakers from the T-bar to fit.
They are also rare to find, even rarer with the steel covers that mask out the holes you have to cut in the t-bar...if you do see a set going cheap, get them!

Sundance

I scanned ebay once untill I was fed up of the word hoop..
Got to get mg shopping list in order..

1....tyres
2...roll hoops
3...stainless exhaust..
4...Honda engine

mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

I think it's important to have fast access to the engine...not a big deal taking the engine cover off in your own garage and at your own leisure...but at the side of the road it not fun....anyone else got any quick access ideas....I did ponder on a idea of leaving the 3 pins under the t bar out all together and having a screw able clamp system..pressing down on the engine cover..but I think this would be better with a t bar made from box section..so the clamps./..miniture jacks have something to press on.

First thoughts on this were Dzus fasteners, but thinking about it the cover must add a bit of strength to the chassis rather than being merely a cover over the engine? If not there's far too many bolts than necessary.

I had a thought about quick release fasteners...like dzus.

I build a lot of German engines that use this system on covers for electrical protection....the mercedes ones have captured springs on them...after you turn them 90 degrees with a screwdriver they pop up like a jack in the box..

they are a pleasure to undo...I think the cover has the correct amount of pins holding it down...after all its important to get a good seal...otherwise..if that exhaust system leaks you get it....that's unless you drive around with the roof down...then it's no problem...

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mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

...............
Got to get mg shopping list in order..

4...Honda engine

How much work would be involved in fitting this?

SundanceUK wrote: wrote:

mgtfbluestreak wrote: wrote:

On the subject of roll hoops are they all cosmetic or can you buy a reinforced t bar....

I think the amount of decent protection most of the hoops offer is negligible,

Most hoops are not structural, but the windscreen is, and forms a triangle with the rear of the boot if the car rolls.