Topic

Hi all my sender unit is playing up on my tf, when i fill it up the gauge reads 0 but do about 60-80 miles and it works , ive been told to replace the fuel pump , which the sender unit is connected to but is it an easy job or difficult, ive looked on the how to pages but if its there i must be blind i cannot see it. any help would be greatful.

Hello, it's fairly straight forward. This is how I did it on my F when upgrading my pump, I guess the TF is much the same.
Disconnect negative battery terminal from battery as a safety precaution.
The back of the roof needs to be un- clipped from inside the car and pulled clear to expose the top of the engine compartment. It can be held back with a bungee cord or similar
Remove the carpet and insulation.
The rear speaker pod unit needs removing to allow the clearance required to remove the pump by undoing the recessed allen headed bolts on the top and the standard bolts at the bottom, disconnect the speaker plug.
The fuel pump is located under a round metal plate that is secured by 4 bolts.
Undo the 4 bolt's and remove the plate to reveal the top of the fuel pump assembly.
You will see 2 fuel lines and a power plug.
Disconnect the flow and return fuel lines by pressing the centre in and moving the fitting sightly toward the pump to release and then pull it off. Remove the power plug. ( sender and pump power)
The pump is secured by a metal ring that screws on to the top of the tank.
Unscrew the ring anti-clockwise. It is very tight and mine needed persuading with a hammer and punch to gradually tap it around. (No doubt there is a correct tool for this)
The pump assembly can now be withdrawn, be mindful that it will be full of petrol and you will need a container to empty it in.
You will now see the pump and sender unit. The pump can be removed if required and the sender fixed or replaced.
Assembly is a reverse process but screwing the locking ring back can be difficult and takes a certain " knack" by pressing the pump home with one hand and turning the ring with the other.
Good luck, I hope this is of help.
Paul

Invalid or non-existent item ID.There is indeed a special tool for removing and re-tightening the big annular ring holding the pump assembly in place. I bought something like this one below. This is just an example of the type of thing you need.



I can't find the actual one I bought but you need to check that the one you buy will open up enough to engage the ring.Also that the legs are long enough, because there is an annoying plastic shaft that sticks up in the centre of the pump top plate.The legs need to be long enough to allow the tool to fit over this and still engage the ring.

When you refit the pump make sure that the float and arm for the gauge are not jammed or fouling anything.(That sounds like it might be your problem.)

This next piece of advice is essential and I wish someone had told me the first time I tried to get it all back together.

There is a plastic/rubber sealing ring that goes around the pump body and locates on the edge of the aperture.This can be a nightmare to get back in place and if it isn't in properly you will be plagued by petrol fumes in the cabin.
SO - When you are ready to put the pump back in, locate the sealing ring on the aperture first. It is V shaped and one leg of the V goes under and one over the edge of the hole.

Next grease the inside of the sealing ring and the body of the pump where it will meet the ring. The pump will then be able to be slid in without disturbing the sealing ring. Grease the external locking lugs on the outside of the hole.(This is what the retaining ring tightens down onto.)

It's vital to get the pump in the correct position before attempting to screw down.There is a depression in the bottom of the fuel tank that the pump sits in.
Once you feel the pump sink in to the depression, the top plate of the pump assembly should be parallel with the aperture. You then need to push the whole assembly down(it's spring-loaded) to be able to get the securing ring to engage.

This is where the special tool comes into its own because you can press down and rotate the ring at the same time.Once it engages properly it is just a question of tightening it up.
Remember you are doing all this through the hole in the body above the pump assembly, so that unless you are a skilled gynaecologist with small hands, you will lose skin and blood trying to get it back in without the tool.

TBH if it is only a slow to register fuel gauge I'd live with it but both the above post give useful info.