Topic

I am getting very frustrated with my little F.

I decided to do some brake maintance by replacing all 4 calipers with new ones I got from eBay and some braided hoses.

Picked the calipers up, no problem.
Picked up the hoses, no problem.
Then took weeks to track down the union bolts and clips and washers to finish it all off with new bits.

Then I struggled to get the O/S/R corner jacked up enough to get the axle stand underneath. Got the wheel off (breaking the locknut cover removal tool in the process) to find the alternator belt had snapped since I last started her 2 weeks ago and signs that the cam belt is about to let go.

I have arranged for MJS to come and do a service and belts for next week.

tI took me for ever to get the hose off as it was twisting the fixed line.
It all went back togeather nicely though.

I thought I'd bleed it before moving on to the next corner, couldn't find my one man bleed kit so bought a Gunson easybleed, picked up a couple of spare resivior caps to addapt to fit it, managed to mess up the first but that was half expected and why I got a second. Fitted it all togeather, opened the bleed valve, connected the tyre and it was almost flat! Can't refill it, can't connect the compressor as I can't start the F without the alternator and can't do it outside the house from any of the other cars as neighbours have all parked there. Tried the old fashioned pumping the brake but without the engine running the servo went solid.

Okay, that'll have to wait, tried taking the front O/S/F off, struggled to get it up due to the "drive way" being uneven, struggled with the bolts as they had been gunned on, then to cap it all, the wheel was rusted on, lots of WD40 and it's still on, can't hit it too hard as the car was only just on the jack, couldn't get it high enough for the axle stand.

Lets try the N/S/R, same problem except the jack is on the slate chippings at that end of the drve!

I'm going to design me a rusted wheel removal puller!

Rusted wheel puller - wheel nuts part screwed on so they are raised above the wheel centre, rope around the spokes of the wheel, car jack between rope and nuts, winding it out, something is giving, oh, the rope has snapped, strong enough to tow a car but not remove the wheel!

I think that Titanium used a jack to get them off. I'll see if i can find the post.

Titanium wrote

I had the same issue on 3 wheels ! After having tried all the known methods (that are quite dangerous) I developed my own effctive method.
You need a little hydraulic jig (probably the car mech jig should work as well), a wood or steel bar and a belt.
Once removed the 4 nuts refit one nut and screw it in 2-3 turns.
Put the jig stem on the nut (to prevent to damage the thread), the bar and the belt (see picture).... pump.
If you are able to remove the central wheel badge it would be better, you will apply the force in the center,

As soon as you feel the wheel coming loose stop to pump, otherwise you risk to get jammed the wheel on the hub.
Once removed the wheels, clean the rusted surfaces and apply some FEW copper grease on the mating surface

Thanks for the info David - I actually got the rear wheel off using a 10lb 4ft long handled sledge hammer and a bit of 4x2, took 4 thumps at the bottom.

I posted this about an hour ago but for some reason it didn't post for some reason.

Since then I've managed to get the old caliper and hose off and fit all the new bits, not bad time either considering I was catching bits of Plato going for a roll etc, one of the advantages of having the car 5ft from the front door and the TV only another 12ft away.

The only frustration now is I can't bleed it now.

There is another frustration - BTCC or F1 rerun?

F1 for me, but that was some roll from Plato!!

Plato stopped me in my tracks...........

With the 911s racing now I think I'll be with you on F1

Managed to catch the last 10 laps.

Would have seen more but had a bit of a mare getting the lock nut off the N/S/F, even tried jack the wrench up with the trolly jack, it was lifting the car off the ground! Eventully I supported the end of the wrench on the jack and applied slege hammer technology!

Now got to work out home to unclip the middle fixing on the OE hose.

i too just have finished fitting goodridge brake hoses to the mgf, the back where easy, the front union brake nut were buggers, ended up having to heat the union up then they came undone 14 yrs of rust . i used a bleed kit from halfords which did the trick, eazybleed i find is rubbish. the mgf oe wheel nuts are the next to change the caps that cover the nuts just rounded even while useing the correct brace. ended up having to mallet on a socket just to undo. will fit some better nuts to mine

rayb wrote: wrote:

................ the front union brake nut were buggers, ended up having to heat the union up then they came undone 14 yrs of rust .................

did you remove the clip first, it holds the union square as I discovered this afternoon.

talkingcars wrote: wrote:

..........Now got to work out home to unclip the middle fixing on the OE hose.

The middle fixing is held in place by the lower suspension bolt.

Other than that that corner only took about an hour all in.