Topic

Hi all

For those who know me I'm ok with engines BUT!!

Right late last year I blew the number 1 piston so Russell rebuilt the engine, this is what he did

replaced the old head with a spare that I had in the shed (the new one had 2 bent valves) the valves from the blown head went in to the new spare head

New piston, rings and conrod with new shells

What had caused it was a combo of the ecu packing up at the same time I was running Nos down the A1 and melted a piston

With the rebuild I replaced the ECU with an Emerald,

RIGHT TO THE PROBLEM:

The ECU is just about set up correctly now

The car has the normal VVC tractor noise on tickover, but now has a more high pitched tapping on top of the usual

This tapping happens up to 2000rpm then disappears either that or sometimes just goes on its own even below 2000rpm, I'm thinking its the lifters on the cams sticking with it being in my shed for so long, I'm I rite with this?????????

Second problem only over 5000 rpm it seems to burn oil, with black soot on the tail pipes and you can smell it in the car, so could this be related to the lifters or stem seals

I've put some winns oil flush in to see if it helps an it has a little with the tapping but not sure on the oil as don't want to rev it too high with it in

But if it is the stem seals can I replace them without taking the head off?????????

any other thoughts would be helpfull as I have to fix this one on a budget of near zero

Did you replace all the shell bearings or just on the new piston? You can get a high tapping if a big end is starting to go but usually the low thump noise. The tapping could be a hydraulic lifter esp. if the head has sat for a long time

Oil through the stem seals usually shows on the over-run. you might need someone to follow you to tell if you're getting burnt oil at that point.

If it is stem seals Wynns/redex will make the smoking problem worse, as it cleans the stems and leaves a bigger gap for oil to escape.

You can replace stem seals in situ. You need a piece of kit to hold the valve in place from the top as you remove the collets/compress the spring etc.

Yeah it is very blue smokey on the over run, I can see it in my mirrors...lol

in that case I have a new set from a K-series 1.4 would the seals be the same??

O yeah only replaced the shell on the one conrod we replaced and were matched up with the code on the rod and the crank

rough luck wrote: wrote:

Yeah it is very blue smokey on the over run, I can see it in my mirrors...lol

in that case I have a new set from a K-series 1.4 would the seals be the same??

O yeah only replaced the shell on the one conrod we replaced and were matched up with the code on the rod and the crank

Sounds like stem seals then. Don't know if 1.4 K stems are the same.

I just checked my stash, they were in the bag full of good stuff I chucked out by mistake

Ebay they are only £8 an £2.50 delivery

I can clean up the lifters from the old knackered head too

suppose I should put a new cam belt on again, Hmmmm I had a new one in the same bag I chucked

Only thing is what type of valve compressor will fit if the heads still on, the ones I've used before go rite round to the valve face

The kit I saw used was a combined spring compressor and valve anchor. The kit clamped the top of the stem then part screwed down to compress the spring.

Sorry, I can't remember any specifics as it was a number of years ago I saw it being used.

I'm having a good guess an does it look like this

Valve Spring Compressor OHV Sealey VS160 Compression Completed