Bonnet release remote

6 years 3 months ago - 6 years 3 months ago #147934 by PQD44
The Problem:

On the original bonnet cable I use Silica or PTFE spray on each end of the cable to keep it lubricated and running freely, not forgetting to grease the mechanism itself. If you do start experiencing problems don't ignore them, have a look to see why it is not operating normally, as the cables can fray and have been known to snap leaving you with a big problem opening the bonnet.

This simple manual release is there to save the day or just make it easier when you want to open the bonnet without going round the back and opening the boot. For the remote release you will need 1m of 2mm wire and a small eyelet.

The Tools:

Pliers, side cutter, cross head screw driver, 10mm socket or spanner.
If removing bumper (see below) depending on your car; 17mm socket for MGF or T50 Torx key for TF for bumper removal.

The Fix:

EDIT: Richard, Blow-in, suggested this job could be done without removing the bumper and sure enough he was correct.
You only need to remove the x7 bolts and x5 screws as shown below you can lift the panel forward to gain access to the catch mechanism. The panel will still be attached by two bolts just in front of the latch, but as removing the nuts would allow the bolts to fall away I tried without removing them and there is sufficient access to do the job. Note there is no need to remove the bolts holding the radiator locating plates, they can remain in place.

If you are going to remove the front bumper and you need help with this click here to view the bumper removal guide .





If you are removing the bumper then you would next remove to two 10mm bolts holding the bonnet release mechanism or if you have removed the radiator panel then you can miss this step and go straight to attaching the cable.



Here you can see the underside of the catch, with the additional cable release already fitted.



Pass the new 2mm cable through the spring retaining hole and then crimp on the eyelet.



hook the eyelet over the bonnet release arm (where the original cable is attached).

Adjust the length of wire so that it goes across the car to the offside headlight, over the body and hangs down between the headlight and the bumper. Next make a loop and then pass the wire over the body at the inner side of the offside headlight again.





Finally refit the radiator panel, taking care to position the radiator locating pins in their holes or refit the bumper as appropriate.

The loop of the wire is not visible from looking under the car but you know it's there and you will find it if you ever need it. :yesnod:
The following user(s) said Thank You: David Aiketgate, Leigh Ping, Bob, Blow-in, cairnsys

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6 years 3 months ago #147939 by cairnsys
Excellent idea :broon: :broon: :broon:

I shall be removing my bumper soon to paint it so will certainly be adding the PQD emergency release cable. :yesnod:

Robin ;)
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6 years 3 months ago #147950 by Diesel Destroyer
Same but different..

Now you need a key to pull the loop

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garage-Door-Emergency...&hash=item3a94b25c67

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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6 years 3 months ago #147951 by PQD44
That's good but involves a lot more work and like I said unless you know it's there you'd not find it by accident.

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6 years 3 months ago #147979 by Diesel Destroyer
I don't see how drilling a hole to mount the key lock part is a lot more work.. But done right could be secure..

But yes I agree any back up is a very good idea.. :broon:

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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6 years 3 months ago - 6 years 3 months ago #147984 by PQD44

Diesel Destroyer wrote: I don't see how drilling a hole to mount the key lock part is a lot more work.. ...:


Allan, as I mentioned above it's a good idea but I think it's a lot easier said than done. Where exactly are you drilling the 3/4" hole and the two fixing holes? :dry:

I can't see a suitable place to fix that locking plate and barrel which is accessible and allows the cable to have a smooth run to the catch mechanism. :nofight:

If you're being really security conscious about this then you also have to ensure that the cable going from the lock to the bonnet latch is also not accessible.
I'm not saying it's impossible but I think you would need to weld / bolt a metal plate to the body to hold the lock mechanism, hence the 'a lot more work'.

Sometimes the simple solutions are the best, even when you know it's there you have to search around for it, I personally wouldn't be worried about any security issues with this mod.

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6 years 3 months ago #147986 by Leigh Ping
Let's face it guys. If a scrote wants to get in to your car, the housebrick / crowbar key is all he needs. :nonod:

As a failsafe opportunity to pop the bonnet open, without causing damage, this is a relatively simple guide to have a go at. :yesnod:

So, don't forget the pics please. :lol:

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6 years 3 months ago #147987 by PQD44
:broon: look at the first post Leigh ... the pics are there :lol: :P

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6 years 3 months ago #147989 by Leigh Ping

PQD44 wrote: :broon: look at the first post Leigh ... the pics are there :lol: :P


It's the spice of life Paul. :lol:
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6 years 3 months ago #147995 by Diesel Destroyer
I've got a place on mine Paul that doesn't need welding etc.. Just hole drilled..

But yes agree your way is simpler.. Was just saying there was an alternative.. As there always is with everything :lol:

I've done same for boot.. On a lock.. In case boot popper ever failed..

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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6 years 3 months ago #147999 by PQD44
Where there's a will there's a way.

Guess you could a cable lock to the wheel arch.

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6 years 3 months ago #148003 by Blow-in
I think PQD44's solution is a good one especially as I found my cable very frayed (see hanging on by a thread) and I wouldn't be concerned about any lack of security. I expect it's possible to rig this without removing the bumper. I repaired my cable by removing the radiator cover with the bumper in situ

Richard.

1.8i Mk2 Solar Red, 16 inch square spoke wheels, MGFMania hood with zip-in glass rear window, DRLs, Kmaps ECU, Pipercross panel air filter, MGOC Supersports back box & some cockpit bling
The following user(s) said Thank You: PQD44, Leigh Ping, cairnsys

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