Daylight Running Lights - how to fit

7 years 5 months ago - 7 years 5 months ago #120172 by Blow-in
On a recent long journey in day light I found myself having to switch on my headlights a lot to be seen in the murk - something I'm reluctant to do having fitted new units as it is the heat the bulbs produce that cause the silvering to go milky on the MGF in time. It also damages the economy a bit as the alternator has to work to keeps 120 amps supplied (counting-in the rear lights). It was very noticeable just how visible on-coming new cars with DRLs were - especially the LED type which emit a very white light. So I decided to retro fit some DRLs to the MGF. This is how I did it.

First, not all DRLs are equal. Some of them are actually 'styling lights' and they do not have the visible range of a 'proper' DRL.

The main decision you need to make though is whether you want a legal set or the other kind. To be legal they need an E-mark, to switch off when you switch on your sidelights and to be mounted within the limits imposed by law.

I bought this E marked set off eBay for under £30 delivered.



(from: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-L...&hash=item2a1e324a4a )

The set includes a relay which automatically switches off the DRLs when the sidelights are switched on. The lights are well made with a metal casing and proper glass covers.



To fit them legally, neither of the MGF's grills is an option. This is because the DRLs must be at least 60 cm apart and no more than 40 cm from the outer edge of the body work. Fitting under the bumper also doesn't meet the requirements as the minimum height off the road is 25 cm. This may not bother you - or indeed anyone else - hard to say what MOT testers in the future will think about it.



After much dithering I decided to fit the lights in the bumper in a legal position.

Having removed the bumper I measured (about 10 times) and marked the centre for each lamp then drilled a 4 mm pilot hole.

I checked the lamp diameter - they have a lip so the plan is a tight hole then Sikaflex.




After that I used an adjustable drill bit to score the paint work.






Before using a brace & bit and a fine toothed hole 64 mm cutter to open the hole. I prefer to use the brace & bit to an electric drill as it gives me a bit more feel.



The surface is not totally flat so it's near impossible to make a 'perfect circle' but this was close enough.



I then offered-up the lamps and carefully filed away until they were a tight push fit. Sikaflex was then applied and after it had set, the bumper was refitted.

More in the next post.

Richard

1.8i Mk2 Solar Red, 16 inch square spoke wheels, MGFMania hood with zip-in glass rear window, DRLs, Kmaps ECU, Pipercross panel air filter, MGOC Supersports back box & some cockpit bling

Please Log in to join the conversation.

7 years 5 months ago - 7 years 5 months ago #120175 by Blow-in
This is how the lights look in the bumper





I would have preferred to mount them a bit more out board but the curve of the bumper would have had them pointing significantly side ways which is not ideal

Now for the wiring.

I secured the relay unit to the fuse box bolt:



The sidelight cut out wire is connected to the red & black lighting wire:



I use these Tap It connectors where access it tight - not to be confused with scotchloks!:



The earth was connected to the adjacent wiring box that bolts in to the wing.

The power lead was a bit more difficult. It needs to be a source controlled by position 2 on the ignition switch. I decided to go for a feed from the fuse box by the driver's knees.

The cable (in the grey conduit) runs through this grommet:



The power comes from the yellow feed in the fuse box below the steering wheel - this comes on with the ignition key at '2':



This is the finished job - more visible in real life:






Richard

1.8i Mk2 Solar Red, 16 inch square spoke wheels, MGFMania hood with zip-in glass rear window, DRLs, Kmaps ECU, Pipercross panel air filter, MGOC Supersports back box & some cockpit bling
The following user(s) said Thank You: Leigh Ping, Fatbaldingoldgit

Please Log in to join the conversation.

7 years 5 months ago #120177 by David Aiketgate
:broon: :broon:

David
:shrug:
The following user(s) said Thank You: Blow-in

Please Log in to join the conversation.

7 years 5 months ago - 7 years 5 months ago #120198 by Leigh Ping
Superb guide there. Thanks Richard. :broon:

LIGHTING
Bulb List - Bulb locations and types.
Bulb Number Plate Lights - Replacement guide.
Bulb Side Repeater - Replacement guide.
Broken MGF front indicator clip fix - Repair Mod.

Daylight Running Lights - MGF - DRL, MGF Light Mod.

Headlamp - Dipped Beam Headlight Bulb Changing - Headlamp - Headlight Bulb changing - MGTF H7 55W Bulb.
Headlamp - Main Beam Headlight Bulb Changing - Headlamp - Headlight Bulb changing - MGTF HB3a 60W Bulb.
Headlights - Improvement guide.
Headlights - Trophy headlight type Painting guide.
Improving instrument display illumination - Visible light upgrade.
Instrument Cluster Warning Lights - Display guide.
Instrument Cluster - Illuminated Needles - Fitting guide.
Light and wiper stalk upgrade using Rover 800/Freelander control stalks - Fitting guide.
Lights Interior LED - Fitting guide.
Rear Lamp Protectors - Fitting guide.
Sidelight Bulb Changing Guide - MGF Sidelight change and upgrade guide.
Sidelight Bulb Changing Guide - MGTF Sidelight change and upgrade guide.
Tail light bulb upgrade - MGTF Tail light change and upgrade guide.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Blow-in

Please Log in to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #138065 by Baytown
Just out of interest, how did you secure the lights to the bumper? Sikaflex or via an internal bracket?
I need to fit round Osrams to my TF 160 but they wont fit in the OEM fog light position without major mods.
Nice job either way.
Ken


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Please Log in to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #138074 by Blow-in
Hi Ken,

The units were a good interference fit so I bedded them in with white Sikaflex 291 (the marine stuff which I have for the boat - rather like Loctite, not all Sikaflex is the same). They've not shifted at all and we also have some rough roads.

Richard

1.8i Mk2 Solar Red, 16 inch square spoke wheels, MGFMania hood with zip-in glass rear window, DRLs, Kmaps ECU, Pipercross panel air filter, MGOC Supersports back box & some cockpit bling

Please Log in to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #138078 by Fatbaldingoldgit
Great How-to Richard...am looking to do something similar with my LE500..

Looks like the original listing is no more though.

I think these are the ones..?

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-L...&hash=item48458b353d

"You can’t be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline – it helps if you have some kind of football team, or some nuclear weapons but at the very least you need a beer"
- Frank Zappa

Please Log in to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #138083 by Blow-in

Fatbaldingoldgit wrote: Great How-to Richard...am looking to do something similar with my LE500..

Looks like the original listing is no more though.

I think these are the ones..?

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRL-Daytime-Running-L...&hash=item48458b353d


Yes, I've just checked the invoice and this was the supplier of my kit and the one you've linked looks the same.

Richard

1.8i Mk2 Solar Red, 16 inch square spoke wheels, MGFMania hood with zip-in glass rear window, DRLs, Kmaps ECU, Pipercross panel air filter, MGOC Supersports back box & some cockpit bling

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.364 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum