Topic

I've e mailed Rob Bell a link to this page David as I know he'll be interested..

Figures look good.. Great in fact..

Need to get Mr Watson to get his rear set up tested...

Can't wait to see what figures I get.. Before trying them on the road and dying.

I suspect you'll have to sit in the car behind yours and think about braking, rather than actually touch the brake pedal

So for a quick and dirty fix, simply removing the OEM valve completely, assuming you have AP front brakes and 240mm rears would potentially yield good results?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

Conclusion

I have found the brakes to be much improved over standard. The stopping power is a lot better while being balanced. i.e. braking hard gives amazing braking, and the fronts only lock under provocation.

Looking at the figures it appears that I now have a an almost exact 60 / 40 front / rear split.

David..did you test at any particular speed?..I'm thinking that the higher the speed the greater the weight transfer to the front and therefore you would need less braking at the rear and increased likelihood of rear lockup for a given setting....

I tried at various speeds up to 60-ish.
I believe that even with full hydraulic pressure to both front and rear it will still always be the 4pots that lock first. Indeed on the brake machine we couldn't get the rears to lock up at all.

Now that the black plastic cover is back in place the mod is out of the way, and there is no chance of it being 'adjusted' by accidental knocking.

Well done David! I've been banging on about this for what seems ages, and my bad for not having done this earlier!

Interesting that you can't get the rears to lock even with the rear being fully "open"? Perhaps you can get away with larger rear discs?

I think that I'll get myself one of these now - although I suspect that it'll be the screw-type rather than lever variety, as I'll be positioning it in the same place you have yours

I can see this becoming a very popular modification Great work!

I don't know if the max setting on the valve is fully open, but I suspect it is looking at the figures. Of course that does beg the question 'why didn't MGR just take out the bias valve when they fitted the 304s on the front?' They could have saved themselves money and improved the brakes at the same time. Double win!

I have just noticed that the Torque App does a 60 to 0 time. Anybody know what the standard figures are?

No - and of course those figures would be highly dependent upon weather conditions, road surface and the tyres fitted.

When I get a bias valve, I'll see whether I can do some back to back testing on a private road

With the adjustment at one extreme is the flow completely unrestricted or is it just the maximum that the valve will allow?

If the two are the same wouldn't it be simpler to just remove the original valve and not replace it?

As I mention above, I don't know what the maximum opening is on the valve, but judging by the brake force figures I think it is pretty much 100% open. If that were the case then you are right, but it would need careful trial of that situation ie no valve fitted.
If in that situation you found that the rear brakes were too much then of course you would have no adjustment available.

Having done bit of digging it seems that the valve has 7 settings ranging from 0-60%. ie 0% reduction of rear braking to 60% reduction of rear braking. So logically it should be 10% increments.

In other words max setting appears to be no reduction.