SteveFMk1

Hi John,
The guide lines are 60,000 of 4 years which ever comes first, looks like your walking on egg shells.

There is an easier way, if you have small hands, remove the grill above the expansion tank, then you can slide your hand in and unscrew the filler cap on the cam cover. Next 1 metre length of garden hose pipe, push a small plastic funnel in the end, use a a small length of wire to hook through the eyelet on the funnel and then hook the other end through the bracing under the boot lid.
If you top it up the night before you use it, it will give all the oil time to drain out of the pipe and cuts the mess down when you put it back in the carrier bag.
That's how i do it.

When you make your purchase, concentrate on body body body, mechanicals can be replaced cutting out rot and welding in panels is a lot harder.
Good luck.

While your at it, slide into the drivers foot well and unclip the brake switch which is half a turn. Pull the plunger right out and replace back in the bracket, the switch is cheap and nasty, i end up doing mine around twice a year, they can cause all sorts of issues.

Before knocking it into reverse, try sliding it into first, first, you'll find it will go a lit easier.

When i changed my sub frames for TF one's about 5 years ago, i purchased a ATV hydraulic lift off Ebay, one of the best things I've ever purchased, very handy when working by yourself.

I think the steel spare wheel is a 14".

I would recommend ether keeping it on a trickle charger of fitting a battery insulator . With the immobiliser flashing for 2 weeks, it will pull the battery down to a low level.

Try checking the large spade connector on the back of the starter, pull it off spray with electrical cleaner and push back on. If you can't get the can down there, spray some on your fingers and rub it on the terminal and push the connector back on