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I have a 2002 Tf 135...std original car. I will measure it tomorrow.
It looks like new so no pitting and should be accurate using callipers.
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They don’t need to eat much when it’s a funnel web having a kip under the bog board. If it’s a dunny your in for & the buggers at the front, you’ve just dropped to great gooseberry shaped gonads right in their line of sight & their hungry & they look good for a bite.
“Can you point to where it bit you Mr Cobber” said the very pretty young, nurse after they rush you into ICU.
Just a thought.
M
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They can be as clean as they like. I’m still eager to know what the diameter is for the two thinner ones.
Ideally someone with known provenance for a 2002/2003 car to measure the diameter of their ARB.
Any chance please?
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I think you are correct with your 25mm, obviously this is going to increase the torsional stiffness & tame any wayward roll.
I looked into changing my standard bar to the uprated offering but couldn’t find one which was wallet compatible.
I had a collection of rose jointed rod end, enough to assemble a full set, which gave me a range of adjustments from standard upwards. I adjusted them buy the same degree, enough to make it obvious there was more tension in the system & subsequently forgot about them.
As expected there was a little less body roll (or was it psychosomatic),
It was quite a long time ago.
I look in on them when I’m in their area & they are still well & quite shiny.
M
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Yes, I have checked.
The potential confusion is that at least one respected source suggests that there was an increase in diameter for the softer suspension, and that at the end (85th) that the bar was thicker still. That same source suggests that there was a 2mm difference between one bar and the next.
It is fairly certain that the thickest was 25mm.
One dimension (recorded in the manual) is noted to be 20mm, but that doesn’t say whether that is the thinner or the thicker two.
I need to renew the struts or at least the springs to resolve the ride height that is way too low.
It is my belief that the PO fitted the comfort pack springs (or some with a similar rate but not necessarily the same free length or possibly same rate but shorter).
Clearly the PO changed the springs - that is obvious- what is not known is what was done to the anti roll bar.
A rough check over the PU coating suggests that diameter is 20mm. That suggests the actual bar might be marginally thinner than 20mm or the bar is a nominal 20mm.
Common sense suggests that if the original springs are re fitted then the first (smaller diameter) bar needs to be fitted otherwise it will be too stiff. Hence the need for clarity.
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Quite happy to walk around in bare feet, though thongs are best on paved surfaces as they get seriously hot in the sun in Summer, my feet are tough and used to walking in bare feet, I don't worry about the critters they don't eat much!
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I for one don't know.......have you checked the specifications section of the workshop manual? Maybe the enlightenment you seek is buried in there or check Rimmers catalog they may have the info listed with part numbers.
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Yeah this is the southern hemisphere, were coming into bushfire season, nobody is going to be having bonfires till late Autumn
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The difference is very simple. To position the sounder behind the driver's head, the wire needs to be longer for a LHD car. Otherwise, it's the same.Bruce could you outline the difference between a RHD kit & a LHD kit please?
M
Complications arise for those with the Steptronic/Stepspeed gearboxes as the 12V supply has to be picked up elsewhere.
I allude to all this in the eBay listing and ask that buyers let me know if they have either of these variants. They never do...
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Surely you’ll be wearing thongs & not walkabout footwear. Goodness knows what you might stand on or what arachnid or reptilian nightmare might take a fancy to a toe or two, with various poisonous delights you have over there, I’d be considering chain mail.
An addition to the tweeter topic & the wiring; the simplest way to wire a tweeter to a system is to use a capacitor. This device allows high frequencies to pass, attenuating the base. A better way would be to use a proper crossover, this is a network of capacitors, resistors & inductors. None of these complexities need worry you if you pop on ebay & for about eight quid you can buy a pair of reasonable looking units. The ones I’ve seen have terminal blocks, so there’s no need to solder.
Alternatively a single capacitor of about 4u7 50v will be fine.
M
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I had half a tank of unusable diesel (don't ask how).
Living on the outskirts of London, finding a farm was not very easy but the farmer was happy that I emptied it over his (unlit) bonfire.
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Hi Len.
I have some protex hood cleaner and waterproofing left over from a recent job.
There's plenty of the cleaner left and enough waterproofing for a coat if you want it.
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It took me ages to get those chapter rings located properly & clearing the needles, particularly the water temperature. There was a lot of fitting, reassembly, stripping & starting again, to the point that having got it working properly I was taking the bloody thing to pieces again before it sunk in that it was working.
So removing the cover isn’t a problem unless you use a shovel.
M
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I cleaned mine with detergent and water several times and gave it 2 coats of Febsil when dry. It looks great now
Same! Except I used Fabsil...😁
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I remember the perspex cover coming off quite easily when i dismantled my instrument cluster few months ago to change the bulbs and add polished metal rigs around the speedo and rev counter
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