Topic

I am girding up my loins to attack this task.

Removing the closure plate is obviously the big issue, hopefully without having to drop the front of the subframe. I have been reading around a bit and trying to look ( both from underneath and via the top engine aperture) to see what this entails.

Am I right in thinking the plate is in two bits - one about the size of a postcard and a smaller one with four slots to take the two handbrake and two gear cables. Do I only have to remove the smaller one? If that is right, then there are only four bolts to be removed - two at the bottom and two half way up. there seems to be a fifth at the top left hand corner but (presumably) the plate can be slid down to release it.

This is a photo I found on Ebay.



Please do correct anything I have got wrong or offer any helpful hints.

Thanks

Have you looked at that section in the workshop manual, you’ll find a copy in the community section of the site. I’ve no doubt it will tell you to drop the subframe. It’s quite a while since I did that job & it can be done with the subframe in place, however the bolts holding the closing plate in place were rusted to buggery. Fortunately having persuaded two to acquiesce the others sheared. The twisted wreckage should have been chucked into the long grass at the top of the garden where the evil thing could have continued its rusting return to the earth. I didn’t & it reminded on my workbench to taunt me for quite a while, until a job turned up where a piece of steel of that gauge was required. And so it lives a peaceful life doing another job.
Once the new cable / cables are in & unless you are monumentally fortunate there will be a period of setting up, I never managed to return the change to its original slick performance & that I think was more a problem with me. Although younger than I am now I was nowhere near as flexible as one of fewer summers, clambering out from underneath having done half a turn to the right to adjust half to the left inside.
I promised a revisit to improve its performance but I got used to it & I got older. If my lad were to volunteer to go underneath & me adjusting at the shifter end it would be done in no time but I didn’t want to take the transmission tunnel to bits & he’s a family to look after.
Obviously the best of good fortune with it, I use fortune because that is what you create & not luck, luck is what happens.
Discuss.
M

David, Yes you only need to remove the small plate, wishing you the very best of luck with it, Take a picture of your knuckle while you still have them,

Not sure if this picture helps, i was lucky enough to address mine with the frame out.

After a bit more poking around under the car, I have discovered that a previous owner has had a go at this. The smaller plate with the keyhole slots for the cables is missing. That will make my life earlier but will I need to replace it? I don’t know if I will find the bolt holes will have the broken bolts rusted in. Maybe cut a bit of sheet aluminum to fit and seal in with CT1 or similar?

You are fortunate indeed, that has saved you a chunk of time, lacerations & possibly a long wait at A&E.
On a general note here; I am fortunate to live close to a health centre with a Small Injury’s Unit, you may have one near you. Although not on first name terms with the staff I have seen them on the odd occasion.
Keep that thought for future reference.
I didn’t bother finding a replacement for the wreckage, I was just glad the whole thing was working again, just don’t go through deep fords & if your car is left outside where a rodent might find the hole warm & cosy, stuff some wire netting up.
Keep us posted on your progress & if you find a rapid way to set the system up I’d like to bet there would be more than me interested.
M

MG has thoughtfully designed this thing in this way to provide you with the opportunity to bleed…….after all the engineering gods require a blood sacrifice to be appeased, otherwise they will get angry and they’ll bugger up the job for you and you’ll have to do it again and again until you do bleed!

You see the man’s correct again, I’ve opened up an old wound after no more than ten minutes into a job I estimated would take a couple of hours. It did but the best part of half that was bandaging & mopping up gore.
It’s a cracking job.
I’ve now to replace the ball cock in our toilet & I’m wandering whether I’ll need a further element of blood letting.
M

Is the plate required as a reinforcer to limit the movement of the cables or can it be left out ?

Stubbs, that's a very familiar view! Right down to the gravel drive and the laurel Bush. Yours is way cleaner than mine, tho.
Back to the original question.

As everyone has said, it's a pig of a job and much harder with the subframe in place but still doable. 2 things are compulsory with owning our car's.
One is a first aid kit and the second is a swear box!

If your saying the plate is required to attenuate left to right movement which might caused problems under normal usage then I’m not using it enough, as I’ve had no problems.
I’d better correct that, there’s still an hour of light left & I can always listen to the proms on radio 3 & watch on catch-up.
M

R40, Just browsing your posts it looks like we've been on the same joyous journey of discovery. With blood coloured cars,

Reminds me of the old English army uniforms in red to hide any blood.

Nice work though.

R40MGF wrote:

Stubbs, that's a very familiar view! Right down to the gravel drive and the laurel Bush. Yours is way cleaner than mine, tho.
Back to the original question.

As everyone has said, it's a pig of a job and much harder with the subframe in place but still doable. 2 things are compulsory with owning our car's.
One is a first aid kit and the second is a swear box!

What a brilliant idea……… a swear box……… I have so many swear words, I have difficulty storing them onboard, so somewhere to contain the spare swears would be useful.
Do they come in different colours and can I get one in 6XL size?……. If I can get a real big one I might get some lovely shiny new swear words.