Topic

When I bought the TF 135 and was driving it home down the M5 on a hot day in July I realised the heater was full on. On attempting to turn it off the heat control knob just sprang back to the central position whichever way I turned it and did not close off the heat. Investigation showed that the PO had fixed the control on hot by apparently gluing the operating quadrant in that position. So I released the heater valve end of the "push pull" wire from the valve and moved the valve to the cold position and left it like that for the summer intending to sort it out over the winter. Not having yet got round to it, on Tuesday the Memsahib decided she would like to go out and as it was a nice, but very cold day it would be a good day to take the MG. Since she feels the cold very much I thought I would just reverse the above and leave the valve in the hot position. Only a five minute job. But on running the car up to temperature there was no heat at all. The heater pipes around the valve remained cold. I did not have time to check the heater bleed for air but assume that is the next step. COMMENTS & ADVICE please.

Could be air but also it could be the valve internals have failed in the closed position..
I would expect the heater inlet pipe to get hot even if the matrix is full of air. Take out the ash tray and feel down the side of the hole(driver's side), the pipes are there.

Today I have discovered that the push/pull wire is kinked so will not travel the full distance. To get to its inner end is an obvious nightmare I can see. Good news is that I have moved the valve closer to the hot position and I now have hot water flowing through the heater. It will have to remain so until aI can face heater control removal. As faar as I can see it will involve removal of full side panel/ centre trim. So far I have done a preliminary investigation with centre console and radio out. There seem to be no "how tos" on removal of heater controls. Has anyone done it?