Topic

Whilst going through my photos, and I'm in the mood for the PC, this is where I placed my isolator switch. I did have to make the bracket. The cable ties are only there to hold the insulating boots onto the terminals.

That reminds me, I keep thinking about putting one in mine.

Since I installed mine it has been a real time saver. No more jump starting after a period of lay up and no messing around whenever any electricals need to be carried out.

I fitted a battery isolator a while back, this type requires no modification or alteration to any of the wiring, all you need to fit it is a 10mm spanner.

It's safer to always to switch off the negative as it makes no difference if something touches the terminal and you don't need to insulate anything.

Takes less than 5 minutes to fit.

Brian.

I've got the same isolater as Badger but with an extra length of wire with a fuse holder with a small fuse bridging the isolater so the alarm can remain operative. Attempts to start the car will blow the fuse.

Alan / Badger

Where did you source your isolators from? Definitely sound like a good idea.

cairnsys wrote: wrote:

Alan / Badger

Where did you source your isolators from? Definitely sound like a good idea.

Mine was from the local motor factor (optional fusible link for the clock and radio memory but you need to run a separate feed) but plenty of sellers have them on fleabay for around £6 inc P&P as below.

Brian.

Battery Quick Disconnect Master Isolator Cut Off Terminal with Fuse Link Completed