Topic

Posting for any advice really...

car has had a new engine, new loom, new gearbox, new disks/pads, needs new tyres and now I think the gearbox has gone again...

engine is brand new build 1500 miles on it....

auto gearbox started playing up (wouldn't work in auto, worked fine in manual but stalled at idle without putting a tiny bit of throttle input when stationary)

gearbox warning light would flash up in "D" but goes away when in 1-6 forward gears in manual mode.

engine bay over heat light comes on when you select R or D or S, and when you select N or P the gear indictator sometimes disappears entirely and flashes back again with the gearbox warning light flashing on when the display is empty, disappearing again when N or P appear....

any advice appreciated, I changed the gearbox for one with a warranty 2nd hand, and that's doing the same thing.... help?

think im just going to sell it soon... had enough of these stupid problems no one seems to be able to fix...

spent over £2k in diagnostics so far at about 8 different garages!

forgot to add, error codes on ODBII are cam sensor, TPS, and Lambda, and have bought brand new TPS(£45), Cam sensor(£95) & 2 lambda's (£110 each!)...

error codes still appearing for those things even though they are all new, also tried a new engine loom (2nd hand new - £90)...

also tried full gearbox oil change twice (£55 of oil each time), new car battery (£110) and new alternator (£140)...

as well as swapping the old gearbox for a (2nd hand with warranty one of similar miles) (£550)...

seriously had enough of this car now, and its just had £3000 of brand new engine put in

Don't know much about the auto box, but what I do know is that the oil has to be specifically what is specified. Any deviation and box will have problems.

As your codes are centred on the engine sensors I would have a good check of the engine to chassis bonding cable. Any problems here and you will throw up faults. Very strange to have 3 different sensors in fault, unless you have a wiring or earth fault..

I served my apprentice time with mazda not mg however all auto boxes rebuilt or re-con must be torque setting perfect, failure to do so blows seals and rings preventing box engaging in auto usually the only gear to work is reverse, right bummer if you reversed into your garage !! Faults being there on diagnostics and then still there after replacing would as previous suggestion point to wiring fault in my opinion. Not much help but if box is warranted get torque settings checked ....

did you clear the error codes after fitting the new parts? They don't disappear on its own...

I can't help with your problems, but really feel for you with all the money you have spent.
I would never consider paying £3k for a new engine when you can get another decent car for half that price
At present you are on a hiding to nothing. Sell for peanuts or throw some more money at it
I know all us Mg nuts are guilty of spending serious money on our cars & it is easy to get carried away, but look what you can get these days before spending big money to keep your car on the road.

Gearbox ECU fault?
Requires T4 to read.

Sending some good luck your way Ozzy that is all. I'd be inclined to say that whoever fitted the gearbox should be held responsible for it not working if they gave a warranty period and its still in that.

Thanks guys

the gearbox was from a 2nd hand dealer with 3 months warranty (its outside of that now - just)

the issue I am 100% certain is electrical...

the gearbox only gets Esso EZL 799 cvt fluid (either from BMW or opie oils), the level is exactly correct when warm at idle in neutral on flat ground...

the error codes are not persistant, they do not light up the engine management light, they are just shown as temp error codes when I am viewing the live data on my wifi ODBII dongle via iPhone when driving...

the gearbox warning light doesn't stay on either... the engine bay overheat light does stay on, but even if car is cold and just turned on on a frosty morning, so its not that the engine bay is overheating... no relays, or fuses have failed (all checked)

the engine bay fan kicks in when it does get hot and stays on when car is locked and parked until temp comes down (as it should)

engine oil temp is 90-105C, coolant temp is always 87-88C regardless...

engine fault codes have been cleared...

I have not got access to a T4 for gearbox testing...

if someone offered me £1000-1500 for the car right now I would take it and be rid... I need something reliable ASAP.
I don't have time to faff with this stupid car any more.

its had a brand new engine
fully ported and polished head
fully blueprinted and balanced
all standard cams, valves etc (but polished and ported)
all new gaskets & seals
bespoke water pump
87C PRRT installed
adapter fitted for oil to water cooler (TF160 one) (not fitted due to lack of funds from fault finding!) - I have the oil to water cooler its self ready to go
its got 160 lowering knuckles on hydragas suspension with adjustable Gaz shocks...
R1R's on rear, and AD38 advans on front
drilled and vented disks & nearly new pads
just needs a little tidy up, centre console had a few holes in from last owner, have a replacement that's better to make interior perfect.
(except the heater controls snapped on the fan speed adjust so needs a new adjuster knob)
TT Mk5 exhaust
Inline induction filter with ported and smoothed throttle body...

anyone want a project? probably an easy fix if you know what you are doing with electrics....

all the threads I have seen with CVT issues online have thrown Cam position sensor as the error (even though its not)... so that was a waste of £95... engine had all new sensors when it was built in September. only 1500-1800 odd miles on new engine which is absolutely lovely...

or anyone know of any specialists I could take this to? I am on surrey/hants border...

Is MJS close?
http://www.mjsautoandmarine.co.uk/

Maybe Russell to the rescue?
http://www.mgroversolutions.com/

I'd definitely ring Russell Walsh up for a chat first to see if he has experienced this thing before and / or for advice.

Before giving up try these guys first as they are no bull honest people, I can vouch for Russell, I know Adam and others have used MJS without any issue.

some pics:

and video:



Oz

I'm just wondering if the easy way out is to ditch the auto box and fit a manual gearbox.