Topic

Hi Guys
need some help finishing off my MGF rebuild...

now done nearly 50 miles on the new engine, and its running fantastically, however there are some issues with the car which has sat for a year...

1) radiator fan isn't kicking in... whats the best way of snagging this?
- I think whack 12v on the fan? (I have a spare fan)
- change the coolant sensor? (is it the blue or black/brown for the fan? I have spares of both)

2) the cvt box is in limp mode.... wont work in auto, seems stuck in 1st... in manual mode its driving fine.
this seems like the major problem that needs fixing.

3) warm idle seems to be about 1500-1800rpm... its fine when its cold, idle adjust screw is on almost minimum, so could be dodgy iacv? (I have a spare)

thanks!
Oz

Rad fan - Check the fuse and the relay(both under the bonnet). Check with a 12v supply that the fan spins up.

You can bypass the relay by removing it, and bridging two connectors on the socket. Fan should run.

It's the brown sensor that sends the signal to the ecu and thence to the fan.


I can't really help with the auto box, other than my previous comments of new fluid and get it hot.

If the tickover is OK cold, but high on warmed up it does sound like the IACV may be stuck.

thanks again. have tried getting the CVT box hot, holding in 4th on dual carriage way for 10 miles...! (4000-4500rpm)

also can hear the IACV moving, just not sure its doing it correctly!

thanks
Oz

also I seem to have a black and a blue sensor, not a brown and a blue... is that right?

Oz

This is how you bridge the relay.




What tickover do you have cold?

bang on 950-1050rpm cold... only goes weird when it warms up...

will a paperclip & electrical tape do for bridging purposes?

It did for me!

Are you sure you don't have an induction leak?

Possibly the tickover is too slow when cold.
The IACv has different steps that it tries to achieve. As I have found out it is quite difficult to set the tickover, because the iacv will keep changing to a different step.

I found that getting the engine really warm and then removing the air filter pipe so that you can see the butterfly. Adjust the throttle stop screw to just keep the butterfly closed. Reset the TPS( 5 dips of the accelerator peddle etc.)
Check the idle, let it idle for a good few minutes.
Re-adjust.

Cool thanks....

also never even got as far as checking the relay...
it was the 15a fuse that had died!

quick swap and its fixed! is it worth uprating to a 20A fuse? and how easy is the wiring to replace if i uprate the fuse, so it doesnt keep blowing! cheers!
Oz

oh and the CVT box is now throwing its warning light on-off-on-off instead of being on all the time...

i am hoping in a few more days worth of driving the error will dissapear itself now that the fluid level is correct...

any other CVT advice?

Oz, just slip a 20a in there, the wiring is man enough.
There are a couple of how tos on adding a warning alarm to the circuit to tell you if that fuse has blown, to avoid overheating issues.
TBH, since I changed to a 20a fuse, everything has been tickety boo.

On the steppy side, did you change the fluid?

No haven't changed the fluid, where is the best places these days for EZL 799?

last time I got raped by a BMW dealership for it...

still have to get the MEMS3 remapped probably £500
have the car geo'd £120
the gearbox fluid changed (and hope that fixes it) probably £70
swap the faulty lambda with the one I have spare,
and it probably needs 2 new front tyres soon too! £300 (Yokohama A038 Advans)

so that's the best part of £1k, which I don't really have until at least next month, so its sorting the cheap fixes first!
thanks.
Oz.

Nearest Xpart shop, I presume.
The part number is XPT001002OF.
Hang on, I'll find an xpart garage near Guildford.

Guava Guildford
Astolat Business Park, Peasmarsh, Guildford, Surrey, GU3 1NE

Phone: 01483 543700