Topic

I normally let garage service my tf but with help today I'm giving it ago so what's the general advice mobil1 or should I go for magnetec 10w40..? Also would people recommend using an engine flush ..?
Cheers in advance
Rob

Engine flush is a good idea if it hasn't been done for a while. I prefer Magnatec but any 10W40 should do the job.

thanks cjj what about the stories I've been reading about engine flushing can do more harm than good..?

Hi Verve, If you take any good pics along the way we can always fit them in to the existing servicing guides. Good luck.

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Hi Leigh I would but being honest I will probably be stressing to much to worry about taken piccys plus they would be out off focus because off camera shake

As Clive will attest, taking pics of your work when you're in the thick of it is a discipline.

But a good tip is to take a few pics under the car before you start work. At least then you will know what goes where once you have to put it all back together.

It's not like you have to send the film off for processing anymore.

verve34 wrote: wrote:

thanks cjj what about the stories I've been reading about engine flushing can do more harm than good..?

If you had a classic engine then some leaks could be blocked by gunge in the engine, so doing a flush could clear out the gunge and cause the engine to leak. That is what people think, but the truth is the engine shouldn't leak and if I had to rely on my engines integrity due to gunge that could block other oilways etc then I would be a very paranoid driver indeed.

Our engines should never be in this state.

Well said! now my old Triumph Vitesse engine was held together on gunk and grunge and it leaked like a sieve once I used engine flush - cost me a fortune in gasket sealant to re grunge it up

I've seen both sides of the flush debate: one argument used to be that residue of the flushing fluid may not be compatible with the new oil.

The old oil is black and cacky prciseley because its been doing its job: cleaning and entrapping combustion deposits etc. So long as the oil has been regularly changed then flushing shouldn't be required.
Purists will say flush and drain with the same oil that you will be refilling with. Purists are usually rich, with Aston Martins etc however.

Pointless Engineering Fact: with Babbitt ( white) metal faced bearings: big ends, mains etc, the main function of the oil is cooling: the functional ratio is 80% cooling by carrying the heat away and 20% lubrication via the oil film between journal and shell. White metal is typically an alloy of lead, tin and antimony with other metallurgical odds and sods bunged in. Formulated by a bloke called Babbitt.

Interesting debate about the gunge our engines suffer. Does anybody use these things?

Leigh Ping wrote: wrote:

Interesting debate about the gunge our engines suffer. Does anybody use these things?

Many sump plugs are magnetic as standard. If not you can magnetise yours by stroking it with a strong magnet . Or fit a small circular magnet to the plug via its own magnetism.

Usually the first indication of engine distress is traces of white metal in the oil. Which is non-ferrous so not attracted to a magnet.

John and Sue wrote: wrote:

Many sump plugs are magnetic as standard. If not you can magnetise yours by stroking it with a strong magnet . Or fit a small circular magnet to the plug via its own magnetism.

It's been a while since we had one, but that's a Top tip! It's at the bottom of the 'Pearls of wisdom pages' in the guides section. Cheers.