Genuine MG Rover MGTF workshop manual

Since I no longer have a TF there’s no point in me keeping this genuine MG workshop Manual. It’s in very good condition without any greasy fingerprints. It covers every aspect of not just the engine and manual gearbox but the stepspeed gearbox. Also covers MEMS3, cooling, exhaust, clutch, steering, suspension , brakes, SRS, heating and aircon, wipers, electrics and dashboard. All the technical info with all the specifications. From the cover photo you can see every section it covers. I am asking £30 including postage. Due to not frequenting forum these days there could be a delay in responding. 

 

 

wrote:

 It’s in very good condition without any greasy fingerprints. 

You didn't use it then........my workshop manuals are often only holding together due to the stubborn under stains and bits of tape!🤣

SOLD!
I can paypal you if you like which will supply you with my address etc. Or any other way you would like.
It will come in very handy.

TA22GT wrote:

SOLD!
I can paypal you if you like which will supply you with my address etc. Or any other way you would like.
It will come in very handy.

I have just sent the contact and payment details via a private message, thank you for purchasing it.

Cobber,  I  bought the manual after I had done all the mechanical work, sadly there wasn't a section on how to stop a TF from dissolving in front of you. I could do with something similar for the MGB GT that I started re wiring on Monday, realised on Tuesday that my way of wiring the lighting so that the DRL's came on at start up but go out when the headlights come on wasn't going to work. I started again yesterday and it was looking good until I came to insert the relays this morning, the supplied terminals had tiny locating clips that didn't stop the terminals from pushing straight out! This is the second fuse/relay box that I have bought, the first was Chinese and had the same problem so I bought some higher quality terminals but they still didn't locate properly. The new Italian set up was of much better construction and the higher quality terminals just squeeze in but there's no way they will ever come out. Parts of the old TF live on in the GT or as spares for it, the interior mirror is fixed to the original mount, I have kept the EPAS column and ECU in case the one in the GT fails, spare stalks for wipers, lights and indicators. It's been a pleasure chatting with people on this forum, it's one of the better ones.

 

Thank you for your hints & tips & your intelligent discussion. I was inspired to follow your lead with the front brake modifications, finding it a useful direction to adopt.
My car went for its MOT for the first time with this modification, it was admired & described as inspired. I take credit for the admired engineering, you take credit for the inspiration.
It passes!
Thank you.
Mike

Transaction completed.
Many thanks Philip, it is going to come in very handy as time goes on.
Good luck with your B..and stay in touch with the Forum.
Many thanks,
Brian.

A pair of relays would do the trick, the first a normally open (NO) relay that completes the circuit when energised to turn the DRLs on the second a normally closed (NC) to break the circuit when energised by the head lights coming on.
So when the 1st relay is activated and the 2nd one isn't the power passes through the contacts of both relays thereby completing the circuit and the DRLs are on.
But when you turn the headlights on, both the 1st and 2nd relays are activated and while the current continues the pass via the 1st relay it is blocked by the 2nd relay thereby turning the DRLs off.

One idea to consider with your DRL system is to use a photo sensor circuit board. Available off eBay for a few quid, you need a power source & the supply line to your DRL control.
Place the sensor adjacent to the lamp & adjust the sensitivity control, until the board mounted relay is clacking as you require. Connect the controller to the N/C & common, when the lamp turns on the controller supply is cut.
A good quality double sided tape will attach the circuit board to the inner wing.
M

I did it Cobber's way and it is working perfectly at the moment. The next problem is how to get the sidelights without the DRL's, I see another 5 pin relay coming along! I have modified the front side/indicator lights as per the photo, not my idea but I think it looks okay. The lens is from a Toyota pickup that is cut down to size, the original indicator bulb holder is replaced to take a 1157 switchback LED bulb so it will switch from a DRL to an indicator automatically. What I have found over the last year or so is that the Americans have easy access to parts that we don't seem to be able to find, take those bulb holders, available every where in the US but try finding them here.
Airportable, I am glad that you like the brakes, it's such a simple but effective solution, are you running 15 or 16 inch wheels?
 

My wheels are 15” VVC five spokes & the brake modification fits snugly under them. Granted there isn’t a whole lot of space but a miss is as good as a mile.
It’s been a bit too hot to do much today & so I’ve worked in the cool of the evening; the light has now failed, so I’ve come in, had I seen this sooner I would have posted pictures.
M

Airportable wrote:

the light has now failed, 
M
 

You'll need to check the fuses and possibly replace the bulb then!  💡☀️🤣

My mistake, wrong value in F12 should have been 15a, I’d used a 10a.
The Big lamp was on auto dim anyway & so work had to stop.
M