Topic

Having received some new ball joint fittings for the bellcrank from Allan (Diesel Destroyer), I decided the sun was shining and there's no time like the present, so:-

Jack up the rear of the car, and fit axle strands to secure the car.

Just forwards of the Cat and just to the nearside of centre you'll see this.


This little gizmo translates the movement of the two gear cables into gear changes in the gearbox.

The two ball joints are highlighted above and in this photo from further away.



I also purchased two new cable end boots as the originals had definitely seen better days.

I used a sharp bade to cut away the remnants of the boot and exposed the cable and the fixing.



The cable end is threaded to take the the ball joint and there is a locknut securing the ball joint to the cable.

Using a large flat bladed screwdriver pop the old ball joint cup off the ball.



Using two 10mm open ended spanners hold the locknut steady and undo the rosejoint. This way means that the locknut is retained in the correct position for replacement without fiddling with adjustment. Once you have freed the joint you can wind it off the cable end by hand.

Replacement is simply done by putting the new boot on (I put some high temp grease inside the boot) and then winding the new balljoint up to the locknut. You can re-engage the two parts of the joint by pressing the balljoint cup onto the ball using gas pliers.
Check the operation of the gears.

Repeat with the other balljoint.

That's it, in theory.

In practice, the problem I found was that one of the new balljoints had a longer shaft than the old one.


This means that my careful retention of the lock nut in position was redundant. I fitted the new balljoint, screwing it up to the locknut, but the result was that reverse gear wouldn't engage.

So I measured the total length difference and wound the locknut farther onto the cable end to compensate for the difference.
The result of that was that I had reverse again.

Of general interest is that I wound the balljoint on one more thread and found that reverse gear is now much easier to engage.



So for people suffering with a grinding reverse gear they could solve it by popping the balljoint off and winding it further on 1 thread.

Here are the remains of the originals with all the pieces of the boots.

Slight over-enthusiasm with the grease, but this is the new setup.

Nicely done David. Did procure the boots as well from Allan?

I got the boots from Rimmer Bros.

I can't emphasise enough how improved the gear changes are now. Really smooth, it's like a different gearbox.
Reverse just slips in nicely and easily now, instead of the previous " Ram it in! - is it in? - Grinnnnnnd!"

looks good,these I know can be an issue

Thanks David,

I have an issue with reverse gear I just have to make sure its in. I didn't think you could get the end joints, I will order said boots but where do we get the ends from Rimmers and B&G don't seem to list them.

Tone

Uncletone wrote: wrote:

Thanks David,

I have an issue with reverse gear I just have to make sure its in. I didn't think you could get the end joints, I will order said boots but where do we get the ends from Rimmers and B&G don't seem to list them.

Tone

Only place I've found them so far is here
http://www.amazon.co.uk/MGF-MGTF-Gear-Cable-Connectors/dp/B005JSYT2I/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365109980&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=mgfgear+cable

They are Portland ones - I think this is their website https://www.ptecarparts.co.uk/

And Mike Satur sells the rubber noots (out of stock when I last looked though).

Wow, I got a bargain! Thanks again, Allan.

Those Portland prices make the Mike Satur bell crank a bargain.

Bell Crank Assembly, rear - MGF
ET7480

Price: £29.99 (Excluding VAT at 20%)

Gearbox bell crank assembly.
Upgraded part.Improves gear selection.
(please note 2 rod ends supplied with this kit)

Another great guide. Good job David.