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I'm also trying to solve this if anyone knows the answer. The part number is AFP663.
I found a reputable parts supplier online who can sell the screws, but they want £7 postage. I'm hoping to pick some up locally so I can fit them tomorrow.
Many thanks
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Thanks for the replies everyone.
I'm debating whether to do this solo or with some help. It strikes ne that the hardest part is the bullet connectors on the yellow green wire. Am I likely to have trouble with these?
Many thanks
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Thanks - I've gone ahead and purchased one this morning.
I have a few questions and would be really grateful for help in answering them:
1) What glue can be used to attach the sensor to the expansion tank? I'm looking for a glue that won't compromise the integrity of the tank plastic
2) Is there anyone local to Southampton/Eastleigh who could help me fit this kit?
Many thanks
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Buy It NowHi everyone,MGF / MG TF - LOW COOLANT ALARM KIT - No Drilling Required - THE ORIGINAL!
Has anyone had experience of these kits? If so what are your thoughts?
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Hi everyone,
Thank you so much for your help. The TF is all fixed now with a new voltage regulator (£22 from Ebay)
This has been one of my first ever repairs on a car, and I've had the help of a neighbour who is an auto electrician (like the master teaching the young apprentice). I owe him a thank you card and a case of beer at the minimum.
I changed the voltage regulator with the alternator still attached to the car.
My top learnings are as follows:
1) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before working around the alternator. There is a big live cable running from the battery to the nut on the alternator, and it has the potential to do serious harm.
2) You need to remove various heat shields and brackets to get to the screws and bolts on the alternator. You might need a long bar to break some of the bigger bolts.
3) For the screws on the alternator that hold the backing plate and regulator in place, I strongly recommend that you invest in a screwdriver that has a 90 degree universal joint. It's very difficult with a normal screw driver, partly because the exhaust manifold gets in the way, and partly because you'll be bent in half in an upside down U shape trying to reach in and undo the screws.
4) Check the easy bits first eg fuses visually and with a multimeter. I did plenty of googling before starting this job, and I've found threads where owners have bought and fitted a new alternator only to find that a fuse has blown.
Thanks again
Matt
Thank you so much for your help. The TF is all fixed now with a new voltage regulator (£22 from Ebay)
This has been one of my first ever repairs on a car, and I've had the help of a neighbour who is an auto electrician (like the master teaching the young apprentice). I owe him a thank you card and a case of beer at the minimum.
I changed the voltage regulator with the alternator still attached to the car.
My top learnings are as follows:
1) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before working around the alternator. There is a big live cable running from the battery to the nut on the alternator, and it has the potential to do serious harm.
2) You need to remove various heat shields and brackets to get to the screws and bolts on the alternator. You might need a long bar to break some of the bigger bolts.
3) For the screws on the alternator that hold the backing plate and regulator in place, I strongly recommend that you invest in a screwdriver that has a 90 degree universal joint. It's very difficult with a normal screw driver, partly because the exhaust manifold gets in the way, and partly because you'll be bent in half in an upside down U shape trying to reach in and undo the screws.
4) Check the easy bits first eg fuses visually and with a multimeter. I did plenty of googling before starting this job, and I've found threads where owners have bought and fitted a new alternator only to find that a fuse has blown.
Thanks again
Matt
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I can't find the how to of replacing/checking the battery warning bulb in the instrument cluster. Is anyone able to send me a link?
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Engine running, I didn't give it any revs but will try
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Thanks, I will give the bulb a go.
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Okay I found this old thread and I'm following what was recommended. Just checked the 80A fuse and that's okay.
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/97429-alternator-failed
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/97429-alternator-failed
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So I've done my first ever electrical check on a car, and the multimeter results on the battery are as follows:
Car off: 12.06v
Car on: 11.46v
Does anyone have a recommended next step? From reading this guide, my battery definitely isn't charging
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/22-cjj-s-guides/90639-testing-the-battery-and-charging-circuit
Car off: 12.06v
Car on: 11.46v
Does anyone have a recommended next step? From reading this guide, my battery definitely isn't charging
https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/22-cjj-s-guides/90639-testing-the-battery-and-charging-circuit
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