MAXTHEDOG

Hi,
Thanks to you all for taking the time to reply.
It has been on the ‘List’ for a while, but other mainly Freelander based things have taken priority.
I see ‘Bitz have glass screened hoods in stock and I’ve requested their installation PDF that goes with it. I’ve also watched the MG Mania YT tube video - doesn’t seem too difficult, but the butchering of the original hood with a knife is the mark of confidence! My TF has the screen heater switch and loom so presumably the relay too.
There’s also a place in Birkenhead that do new plastic panels for about half the ’Bitz hood price.
In the meantime the screen tear is taped up with the tape I use for repairs to the polytunnel - once that on it doesn’t come off, and of course it’s absolutely hammering down today for a change (not).
Re: reversing damage, I just don’t push my luck and in car parks the front marker of the space seems to be right when it lines up with the front wings corner. The TF’s so tiny (even the wife laughs at it at the side of her Beemer Mini) that there’s usually loads of room behind still given the bloated size of a lot of cars now.
Cheers,
Michael.

Hi All,
Just when I’d sorted the O2 sensor, noticed some thud, thud, and done some undersealing, as per the title the rear screen has split.
I’ve read some threads on the subject, but most seem to be about glass replacements( see below).
I’m aware they are available but a few questions have filled my head:

Are the F and TF screens interchangeable?

Would you go for glass?

Most places advertising to change plastic for plastic require you to send yours to them for it to be done. Is it doable by the averagely capable DIYer? From what I can see If you don’t mind replacing the fabric surround as well it’s just 11 rivets at the bottom that need dealing with. Also, given that my TF lives outdoors sending the panel away then raises the question of covering while it’s away.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards,
Michael

Thanks to you both for your replies. As you can see below , I’ve got the rear end off the ground as part of my preparation for a replacement post cat O2 sensor coming this week, I thought I’d better get WD40ing the one installed. While having a good look round that area spotted this:





Both sides, rear ARB drop links. Not that I think these are the cause of the aforementioned thuds but obviously they’ll need attention and as the MOT is back end of next month I’d like to get them fixed beforehand. Got both bolts freed off but the lower bolt won’t come out due a certain brake disc being in the way. So, I presume the disc has got to come off, or if I chop/grind said bolt can the replacement be fitted from the back. I’m guessing no to that.
Seems I’ve got some work ahead of me, together with similar thuds from my Freelander plenty of experience changing drop links (they’re coming this week too).
Regards,
Michael.

Hi All,
The last couple of times out in the MG I’ve noticed the dreaded thud of what sounds suspiciously like the beginnings of a worn bush. Is there list of the usual suspects in ascending order of cost and ease of access for the front? ARBs, drops maybe?
It’s very timely as I’ve just finished this with the Freelander. That turned out to be a lower arm front bush bolt 3mm out from the arm ‘plate’ it should have been tight against.
Cheers,
Michael.

Wishing you a speedy recovery Cobber. Take it easy.
Regards,
Michael.

Thanks Bryan,
Yes, bad combination of cold weather and using lights, heater and fan on the last few times I did use it, on short journeys - read under 10 miles. I’ve just looked at my mileage records and I’ve only done 237 Miles on the battery.Coupled with the period of non use due to the seemingly incessant rain we’ve had up here…..
Regards,
Michael.

Thanks Airportable and Notanumber. I know what you mean, I’ve got my fingers crossed but we’ll….I’ll see.
Since I haven’t abused it I’m expecting it to be covered by the supposed 5 year warranty. I’ll see that too.
Cheers,
Michael.