Topic

Hi All,
Just when I’d sorted the O2 sensor, noticed some thud, thud, and done some undersealing, as per the title the rear screen has split.
I’ve read some threads on the subject, but most seem to be about glass replacements( see below).
I’m aware they are available but a few questions have filled my head:

Are the F and TF screens interchangeable?

Would you go for glass?

Most places advertising to change plastic for plastic require you to send yours to them for it to be done. Is it doable by the averagely capable DIYer? From what I can see If you don’t mind replacing the fabric surround as well it’s just 11 rivets at the bottom that need dealing with. Also, given that my TF lives outdoors sending the panel away then raises the question of covering while it’s away.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards,
Michael

There’s no doubt you require a new screen even before this latest catastrophe, how did you know what was behind you (other than using your door mirrors)!
Glass or plastic,
A glass screen reduces the rear view, whilst with a new plastic version you will have the original field of vision.
When I fitted a glass screen I found the restricted view an irritant, to such an extent that I reversed into a stump, damaging the bumper to the point of requiring a replacement. Had I still had the original I could easily have avoided the collision.
F & tf hoods are interchangeable, however very early frames are slightly different; I’m unsure what the difference is. Nor am I sure whether you can fit a glass screen straight into a plastic “frame”. I suspect there might be a compatibly problem as the plastic screen zipped out to facilitate laying flat once the hood is down.
If your hood is as aged as the screen intimated, changing the lot is probably worth considering, a few chaps have recently acquired good used hoods from ‘Bitz, they supplied mine as a new replacement & it went on in next to no time.
One post script on the bumper debacle. Having to replace the bumper gave me the opportunity to fit reversing sensors, had I done this before I would have avoided the stump!
M

A glass screen reduces the rear view, whilst with a new plastic version you will have the original field of vision.

Yes but the glass screen remains clear unlike the plastic one which only retains it clarity for about 5 minutes before it goes opaque,
The glass may offer a smaller view and the plastic offers a larger but blurry view……six of one and half a dozen of the other
Most Fs and TFs I see have battle scars on their arses, this is undoubtedly due to poor rearward vision with the roof up
If you wanna see what behind you get a reversing camera!

I've just fitted a dashcam with reversing capability, wired to the fusebox and the reversing power in the boot. It works well: not as large a screen as the sole purpose dashcams, but big enough, with guidelines and a STOP line. I checked it out this morning by not backing into our front porch. Even with a new plastic screen (you should have heard the bang when the old one split from side to side!) it is very helpful.
I got mine and the wiring kit from Temu for a ridiculously low price. I've seen better images, but it's not bad. Example HERE, after the static photos.

A rear view camera is the ideal solution, indeed I had one in the tf & it’s still in stores.
I didn’t refit it to the f as there’s too many ancillary add ons at the time, I was developing something, the use of which now escapes me.
All that stuff is finished with now so I might fit it; I found the guide bars irritating.
M

Whereabouts in the rear bumper did you fit the reversing sensors and did you manage it without having to remove the bumper ?

Hi,
Thanks to you all for taking the time to reply.
It has been on the ‘List’ for a while, but other mainly Freelander based things have taken priority.
I see ‘Bitz have glass screened hoods in stock and I’ve requested their installation PDF that goes with it. I’ve also watched the MG Mania YT tube video - doesn’t seem too difficult, but the butchering of the original hood with a knife is the mark of confidence! My TF has the screen heater switch and loom so presumably the relay too.
There’s also a place in Birkenhead that do new plastic panels for about half the ’Bitz hood price.
In the meantime the screen tear is taped up with the tape I use for repairs to the polytunnel - once that on it doesn’t come off, and of course it’s absolutely hammering down today for a change (not).
Re: reversing damage, I just don’t push my luck and in car parks the front marker of the space seems to be right when it lines up with the front wings corner. The TF’s so tiny (even the wife laughs at it at the side of her Beemer Mini) that there’s usually loads of room behind still given the bloated size of a lot of cars now.
Cheers,
Michael.

After the debacle of the cracking of the bumper & the failed repairs, I sourced replacement into which I fitted the sensors, prior to spraying. There was no formal pattern to their placement, I cut sensor sized circles out of masking tape, by using a bit of nouse & comparisons with other cars with factory fit items, I decided on what I consider a good compromise. And they are fine.
If you are considering fitting a system do factor in to the equation removing the bumper at a later date.
The device I chose had four sensors, a sounder & the main control unit. The sensor wires were excessive, making cutting down an imperative, the power was drawn from the reversing lamp, the box of magic fitted behind the strut which holds the boot latch & I fitted connectors to allow easy disconnection from the car if the bumper has to come off.
I used 3.5mm right angle jacks on the shortened wires, with the matching sockets mounted through the rear panel in the “boot well”.
It’s been in for a number of years, returning reliable information without hitch.
M

I bet it would still work with a hitch too Mike. So long as the sensors were sufficient distance from any tow bar hitch that was installed

I could do with editing an “a” into that last post, I wouldn’t want anyone thinking I tow a boat around.
M

I fitted the sensor to the convenient flat between the number plate lights. It's quite easy to use a stiff wire to guide the lead up without removing the bumper, following the path of the plate light wiring. I adjusted the sensor mount before finally screwing it in place.

Thats a very neat installation.