Topic

Saga continues , visited another 4 cars at the weekend , more age related marks turning out to be dustbin fodder. Realised that the 3rd car we looked at last week was probably a lot better compared to every other viewed and promptly called and made offer. Result is I drove home in a monsoon yesterday in our 2004 1600 tf in silver. Genuine 42000 miles very little rust and 1 years mot. First problem is you need the fingers of a safe cracker to release the fuel cap and it took 10mins at garage to remove and feed the toy. Noticed a heavy clunk started from the front somewhere on route home and car once or twice had a vicious twitch from front end that kept you awake! Gears selections are very baulky and vague so that is another thing to check . Thr list grows so dont know when we will get time to drive it! Prepare for the questions guys.

The nervous handling is probably down to tyres as these cars are quite biased to make/pressure etc

The clunk could be the subframe mounts, mgr project drive cut backs included these going from nice, chunky rubber mounts to cheap flimsy rust prone solid mounts, checking them is a bumper off job I think.

The how to has a topic on tightening up the gear change if your handy with the spanners.

The fuel cap only goes on one way, there's a cutout for a rubber bung to locate over.

The fuelling is a nightmare on all these cars and there's a knack to it.

I find putting the nozzle in then twisting it to the left and not pulling the trigger all the way back, it takes time but it seems it's the only way.

I agree about nervous handling, I think road surfaces also contribute to this, as I discovered whilst doing 70. The road surface went from "smooth" to "less smooth" and the car felt like it was floating. I tried the same stretch of road at a lower speed and the effect was the same.

Pics and you are

Well done on your purchase and you will have plenty off questions to ask , it's just part of the enjoyment/ frustration of owning a TF.

If you do require new sub frame mounts you do need to remove the front bumper and Peter from mg mania sells stainless steel ones for a good price. One word of advice here, before any work you carry out make sure to soak the nuts and Bolts in a good release oil (plus gas works for me) .


Happy spannering.


Steve

I'll have a look at the gearchange etc but car currently in brother in laws driveway as mine currently being slabbed and a building site . From memory tyres on front are goodyear nct but old and cracked possibly tread gone hard but still plenty of it. I see were advisoriescat mot 3 weeks ago . I was accelerating at the time ( I know , 1.6l dont accelerate) and suddenly front end started darting from side to side.Road was wet but it was a brown trouser moment!
Previously bought my wife a tr7 convertible which I set about restoring , welding in acres of steel , bare metal respray , all lead loaded no filler , sprayed car outside on a warm dry day , fitted new mohair hood all in 7 months of work was gorgeous finished and at the end was so sick of it sold it to first viewer. Wife has never forgiven me as she never got to drive it so this time any work will be gradual while on the road in use. ( under orders of the Management!)
As car will have to sit outside for some months I will have to get a hard top , anyone got a cheap one for sale north of the border or n. england ? No doubt loads of questions so hopefully get some help from long term owners . Thanks everyone...

Welcome Kaspian. Where in Ayrshire are you? We're just south of Girvan.

Sounds like a project.

My filler cap seized in Nice on a 30' day after several years of no problems, I used some sun tan oil sprayed on the key to lubricate the lock before using graphite lube once I got home.

As Andy says the cap only goes on one way. I find almost inverting the pump nozzle clockwise works best.