MGF subframe bolts

Diesel Destroyer wrote: Standard are M12x1.75 too..

The factory bolts have a tapered end to help the bolt locate.. I'll replicate this with the grinder and die set..

Or just fit a nut before grinding, then when you remove after grinding, thread still intact.

Some photos for comparison

I asked the bolt man for the new ones to have a slightly longer shank so that there was no threaded section inside the sleeves.

Probably worrying about nothing but belt n braces etc

I'd deffo recommend locktighting the wishbone bolts as they work loose. I didn't bother when I built the buggy and had to re-do them all after they started to undo

All good info here! Ta.:broon:

Apart from the M12 wish bone bolts and the engine mounts nothing else will get locktite'd

All other bolts including subframe to body bolts will get copper greased to prevent seizing..

Any who have dropped a subframe can testify to snapped bolts and heads rounding off.. So hopefully the 12.9s and copper grease will pay dividend in the future

Have you sorted some bushes out for your new arbs?

Diesel Destroyer wrote: I asked the bolt man for the new ones to have a slightly longer shank so that there was no threaded section inside the sleeves.

Probably worrying about nothing but belt n braces etc

I'd deffo recommend locktighting the wishbone bolts as they work loose. I didn't bother when I built the buggy and had to re-do them all after they started to undo

The OEM bolts have a nylon patch on them and i replaced mine with new ones as reccommended, they can be cleaned up to remove all of the old locking patch and then use loctite thread lock. I think it is false economy to re-use the bolts :rant:

I have 2 sets of polybushes for the ARBs.. So will have a go at opening them up with the die grinder..

Failing that I may look at getting some nylon ones turned up...

As a metallurgist with 25 years in automotive engineering ensure you take into account the OEM bolt tensile grade used (as some have realised quoting 12.9 bolts being the metric grading) or premature failure may occur.
Note always here if anyone wants info/advice on materials.

Always good to have the knowledge. Thanks for making it available to us.
I believe,may be wrong, that the OEM are 8.8.:shrug:

Hmm; a thread about screws! My two penn'orth. Many of the bolts referred to here are structural components. Bits of steering and suspension hang off them. Do not just go into bolts r us and buy anything of the right size. Avoid stainless for anything load bearing. Stainless is soft. Find out the spec of the fastener first. 10.9 is a good bit more expensive than 8.8. There is a reason for that! It is a lot stronger. If the thread is a fine one, replace it with a fine one and remember the old engineer's dictum: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Nearly every threaded fastener you bought when you bought the car will outlast it so if you are doing it for cosmetic purposes, reuse the old ones after taking them all to your local plating works.

minimax wrote:

.....Stainless is soft....

I thought it was brittle?