Topic

That is indeed the worst placed thermostat housing in the world as david says , there are from memory 3x8mm bolts , the one against the block is a pig to retighten so someones probably left it loose when changing the thermostat .......good luck !

Yes, it was hard to get at. But I managed to replace it. Here's how I did it.

Pre 2002 MG Thermostat replacement.

Hi. Am I right in thinking the coolant capacity is 10.5 ltrs? Just wanna make sure I buy enough waterless coolant.....

Tiger-bay wrote: wrote:

Hi. Am I right in thinking the coolant capacity is 10.5 ltrs? Just wanna make sure I buy enough waterless coolant.....

So now I've got my car back from MOT & servicing (the waterless coolant didn't arrive in time to use at this service) I decided to get the socket set out & try to improve the heater output. There was some heat coming through but would then cool off again after 10 mins or so. So I've bled the front and middle bleed points. I can't get at the engine bleed screw atm. But there's still no improvement. I adjusted the cable to the valve but that didn't improve it either. I did notice that the coolant from the rad was hot but from the matrix it was cold, not sure if thats right? And to add to my doom and gloom I noticed the brake lights are permanently on. Could I have upset something when playing with the heater control valve?
Any pointers gratefully accepted.
Chris.

Chris,

I would suggest that the heater going cold is down to an airlock in the heater matrix, so best cured by bleeding from the nipple under the bonnet. I found the best way to do this was to have the heater on full, car running ( expansion bottle cap off) and as the engine warmed through, kept releasing the nipple and bleeding fluid out, whilst keeping the expansion bottle topped up to the level.

The Brake lights are likely to be frayed cables on the passenger side of the car as the cable routes around into the high level brake light in the boot and shorting out. Test for this is partially open the boot, start the car and jiggle the cables ( don't earth yourself on the body). with mine it was half open and it you moved the cables the brake lights would blink on. Easy fix, you just need to splice in a section of cables and then cover in insulation. Leaving the final clip off the boot lid, stops the wires getting forced in such a tight curve and prevents future problems.

TB

Tourbillon wrote: wrote:

Chris,

I would suggest that the heater going cold is down to an airlock in the heater matrix, so best cured by bleeding from the nipple under the bonnet. I found the best way to do this was to have the heater on full, car running ( expansion bottle cap off) and as the engine warmed through, kept releasing the nipple and bleeding fluid out, whilst keeping the expansion bottle topped up to the level.

The Brake lights are likely to be frayed cables on the passenger side of the car as the cable routes around into the high level brake light in the boot and shorting out. Test for this is partially open the boot, start the car and jiggle the cables ( don't earth yourself on the body). with mine it was half open and it you moved the cables the brake lights would blink on. Easy fix, you just need to splice in a section of cables and then cover in insulation. Leaving the final clip off the boot lid, stops the wires getting forced in such a tight curve and prevents future problems.

TB

Re: stop lights, I wiggled the cables running to the high stop light but no result. I did however notice that the brake lights blinked off when I turned the steering wheel also when I tapped the brake pedal sideways. Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the footbrake pedal showing the pedal switch? I guess thats where I'll be looking next.

Picture of the connector pg 96 of the electrical manual

Hi, I'm a newbie in Kent, UK, with a 2004 MGF TF 1.8.

Can anyone help please? I've got a leaking hose - in the diagram at start of this thread it's No. 14. Any idea where in the UK I can get a new replacement?

Have tried Rimmer Bros, Brown & Gammons, but nothing resembling that hose in their selection...

Many thanks.

Hi and welcome to the forum

Is it not no.9 in this diagram?

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID000024

James

Actually, I think you might be right! Must say, I find the Rimmer one (the several different diagrams) very confusing.

If it is No.9, I note they say Not Available and advise an alternative. So I'll make a note of that. Since posting on here I've emailed Rimmers and Brown/Gammon with the original diagram, so will see what they come back with in the morning.

But thanks for pointing me in what looks like the right direction so quick! Very much appreciated.

I've just done a quick search but can't find any new anywhere, it might be worth asking Lakeland Minis.

Alternatively you way have to make a patch repair for the damaged section.