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  • tnjk replied to the topic coming electric roadster? in The T Bar
    There are also video's around for changing an MGF to an EV, and the cost are far less from buying a new roadster, and will probably get lower when EV's becomes more and more used, so cost of parts will decrease due to economy of scale.
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  • Well, I will check after a few thousand km's how much has leaked out, by refilling it.
    According to the garage to solve it the complete gearbox should be replaced / overhauled, but looking at the diagrams an option could be to change the diff bearings, These seem accessible from underneath the car with the gearbox in place. Too much play will likely be caused by worn bearings I think. The only thing is, if these are pressed in, removal won't be possible, but according to the diagram the bearings are held in place by a snap ring, which would make things easier.
    I will also check if the correct oil seal has been mounted by the garage.
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  • Thanks, good to know that the seal replacement should have solved the problem completely.
    Besides L+R there is also a difference depending if you have an early or late MG. Well described on the competitor forum : https://mgfregister.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25554

    But I am also interested if the driveshaft should have a tight fit at the gearbox-entry, or is it possible to have some radial play, being able to jiggle it a bit. So if anyone has the MG on the ramp, a quick check would be much appreciated.
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  • The green part in the picture is the return pipe. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-WJP108200
    The green connector seems a puh-fitting, so easy to disconnect, I am not sure where to push it, but I should be easy.
    But you need the part attached to that, also seen on the rimmerbro link.
    It seems you can only get a complete set of all lines, and you only need one.
    I think when you disconnect the fuel line only the content of the return pipe will spill, but have a container at hand to catch the fuel.
    You can repair it with a rubber line, but I would prefer to mount a new one, or one from a donor MG.
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  • tnjk created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    My TF was leaking transmission oil from one side of the outgoing drive shaft, It was the right side, from perspective standing behind the car.
    I had the MG garage replace the oil seal. But this did not solve the problem entirely, the point where the drive shaft enters the transmission is still full of oil, and is somewhat dripping on the floor of the parking place after a long drive on the highway. Not completely leaking out, but some drips.
    According to the mechanic this could not be fixed, because there is too much play on the outgoing drive shaft. Indeed when I try too wiggle the drive shaft at the entering point to the transmission, it has some radial play. The mechanic said the solution is to check the transmission oil level sometimes and add some oil when needed. The real fix would be to remove the tranmission and overhaul it, a very expensive solution because to do that the car must be detached from the subframe. At least that was his diagnosis. I know there are 2 types of oil seals MG used, and according to the garage they mounted the correct one. I have no way of checking that.

    So I am wondering, do any of you have had this leaking tranmission problem, and what did you do to fix it. Did you check the play on the drive shaft and should this be almost none, or is it common to MG's to have some play at this point ?

    The transmission itself is working like a charm, no strange noises, very smooth shifting. The car has almost 140.000 km (about 87000 miles) on the clock.
    But I don't like the idea of loosing transmission oil at every trip, and I am probably not the first MG driver having this issue, so help is much appreciated.

    Thanks for your opinion.
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  • Stainless steel is the way to go here.
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  • and my advice would be to mount the modified stronger HG (I believe also found on landrovers) and to mount a modified oil rail in the sump.
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  • Wow, looks good wouldn't be able to tell this was a spraycan job. I have tried this in the past with an old volvo, but could not get the result you have accomplished. Compliments !
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  • Hi Mike, if I remember correctly I removed some of rust from the bottom bush and put some grease when mounting. But since then due to MOT's the suspension arms have been replaced. I used to have a garage that said some play in the suspension belongs to an MG and he got away with it in the MOT. But he has retired and other garages use the MOT checklist like the red book of Mao.

    But to come back to your initial question : after the latest MOT the garage decided that a new exhaust + cat was needed because the old system had corroded away. Never heard any strange noises, anyway I agreed to the repair. After the repair at every corner and putting down the accellerator, there was a horrible creak coming from what seemed the rear suspension. Rear suspension arm was also renewed, so I expected they did a bad job there.

    I went back to complain, and indeed they did a bad job, but with the new exhaust system. The cat was scratching against some suspension bar, so they had to modify the exhaust mounting points a bit to make sure it is hanging freely.
    Probably used non-original parts. But that solved the problem,
    Now I still have an transmission oil leak, that they had fixed, but still leaks I noticed, I'll make a new topic for that.
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