Surely just “extending” the cable just places the gear stick in a different neutral position. And if all gears can be selected with engine off it does suggest a clutch problem. However, why immediately after not being able to select the forward movement of the gearstick is a puzzle unless the loss of the U clip occurred at that moment which seems likely.
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When I got my TF the gear change was "diabolical". I started with the bell crank and that made some improvement. Not long after I had some other work done by a garage. In doing that they also inspected the gear change and replaced a missing part under the gear stick that had been "botched" in the past when under different ownership. Fitting that made a huge difference.
I can understand that it might be desirable to add extra bracing. But on the other hand why is that necessary now? What has changed since before the Dartmoor trip?
As the slave is visible under the engine cover I'm not about to rush out and look at that situation. I presume you are suggesting that there is loss of potential thrust bearing travel as some of the mechanical advantage is taken up by the movement of the slave cylinder itself. If so it does make sense to brace it. But why now is still a mystery as is the loss of U clip.
It will be interesting to hear what you experience once the restraint is fitted. Please keep us informed.
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In truth I have more experience with MGB clutch systems than the MGTF but the concepts are similar. After a lot of research (and hitting lucky when I came across someone with access to OEM drawings) it became clear that the whole system was designed to work "as one". In other words you needed maximum pedal travel, fully functioning master and slave cylinders, no excess freedom of movement in the slave push rod, and good pivot bush tolerances in the fork arm before the release bearing would push the cover plate the "designed amount".
I suspect the same is true for the MGTF system.
When testing hoses in a previous life at periodic intervals for safety compliance (not as a manufacturer but as a user) the theory was that under pressure the hose would extend in length. If it reduced in length it was indicative that the braid was failing or failed based on simple science. So if it looks like your hose is shrinking in length and bulging then that could be an explanation as to why the release bearing is not depressing the cover plate (the displaced volume is bulging the hose rather than pushing the cover plate).
If there are odd audible noises other than the "baulk rings protesting" when you press the clutch pedal but not attempting to change gear I would try and establish if the action of pressing the clutch pedal is delivering the correct movement of the actuating rod that goes into the bell housing. I have no idea what that should be. Perhaps someone on here might know that. If when you press the clutch pedal (without changing gear) and there are odd noises that would tend to suggest the release bearing.
If you are an MGOC member there was an article earlier in the year describing how someone renewed the bushes in a stabiliser bar that apparently ties onto the sump and connects to the sub frame ~ I have not looked at this on mine. If that is worn out on yours it might be a reason for the engine to move a bit leading to a situation that over tensions the gearchange link cables and breaks the u clip. I don't know if that is possible but I think it would be good to understand why that clip became lost.
Surely if the clutch failed whilst trying to change gear it would damage the gearbox components and not the gear linkage.
To my way of thinking the reluctance to explore renewing the release bearing etc is understandable. I think i would be more inclined to explore renewing master and slave cylinders simply because damage to the bores of those can't be ruled out and loss of efficiency will translate into less movement of the release bearing. But it is only a suggestion. If there is unusual noise when stationary with engine running and just pressing the clutch pedal I'd say the problem is in the bell housing.
FYI ~ I too have a Satur bell crank.
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Thinking about this some more I’m still unclear why the u clip failed, why changing gear after renewing the clip didn’t improve.
it seems that something directed you to clutch operation and a seal was renewed.
So, can the movement of the clutch operating linkage be observed and if it less than expected or doesn’t continue to move as the pedal is pressed it points to seal efficiency perhaps. Asking the obvious : is the seal that you replaced the right one, fitted correctly and in the right way around. If all those answers are ok then the questions tend to cast doubt on the cylinder conditions of both master and slave.
You mention the hose condition. If that is failing obviously that would explain the problem.
if the linkage movement is continuous then it does unfortunately point to release bearing or cover plate issues in my opinion.
There is still the question as to why the u clip became lost. I’m still puzzled by why gear change did not return to normal after renewing that clip.
Did you drive home using 2nd and 4th only after encountering difficulties in Dartmoor?
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As I read this it seems to be a complex issue. Initially you could not select those gears that needed a forward motion of the gearstick, but the clutch was fine.
To investigate and resolve this you looked underneath and discovered a clip was missing (I am not familiar with that clip I have renewed the bell crank). You renewed the missing clip. But at that stage did not identify a reason to explain how that clip was lost. (Am I right so far?)
From what I read it sounds as though you then had a problem with selecting any gear and opted to re-bleed the hydraulics. Correct?
Executing further investigations it seems that you can select gears whilst stationary with engine off but not whilst the engine is running or when underway. Am I right in thinking that gear selection is inhibited for all forward and reverse gears when underway or just with the engine idling or both?
Please confirm that you can’t select any gear if you are stationary but with the engine running..
If that is the case it does appear to suggest that there is something wrong with clutch operation. Is it possible to see and monitor the clutch release shaft movement with and without the engine running.
Logically it would seem that something has failed within the release bearing arrangement. If the shaft is not responding to pedal movement then the bleeding action or one of the cylinder seals must be at fault.
What is still a puzzle is why the u clip was lost. Could that be down to a warn engine restraint acting in a way that put such a load on the cable that it forced the clip to fail?
After renewing the clip what was the consequence? Why if you could find 2,4 and presumably reverse what made you bleed the system as it must have been ok crossing Dartmoor if you could get 2&4. Renewing the clip alone surely can’t have changed that situation?
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Did your windscreen reflect the p profile “rubber” insert, and if so have you found a resolution to that please?
The overall finish is a lot better than the acoustic accompaniment but the reflection is annoying.
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Well, ever so near but...!
I managed to remove two out of the three failed clips that were still in the dashboard. The third was a child of dubious parentage. I had to grind the tip of the screw off and weaken the clip. Recovering them through the vent was doddle. Re fitting the vent was easy too after renewing some foam around the ductwork.
With the three clips out I bonded in three rivnuts using 2 pack JB weld repair plastic glue. So far so good.
I then cut and shaped three aluminium brackets from 30mm equal angle material and reduced the 90 degrees to something close to requirement.
With those brackets in place and nearly tight I bonded the binnacle to the angle brackets. If the perishing binnacle had not slipped a bit over lunch whilst the glue set everything would have been perfect.
So, after lunch I removed the binnacle (unscrewing) the brackets that were now bonded to the binnacle, and risked everything by trying to cut through the glue to re bond the binnacle in place where it should be.
Unfortunately the perishing thing cracked (told you so I hear you say) but not too seriously so I had to overcome that by just renewing the glue and then re attaching the binnacle using some "P" section elastomer that I had in my spares bucket.
All in all it doesn't look too bad, it has cured the rattle and I would adopt this approach again if I had another spare binnacle.
All being well attached are two images. One shows the screwdriver assemble all stuck together with gaffer tape. Yes it is resting above the arch but that was only for demonstration purposes. It was just possible with the screwdriver between the arch and the top of the instruments.
And here is the other
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Thank you for confirming that, very reassuring. I’ll now try and become more familiar with its capabilities.
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Thank you for that advice.
I have attempted to do that and the top banner of the pscan window shows 0438. Would that be the relevant version number and if so can you tell me if that is the latest version as far as you are aware?
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I would like to keep my Pscan up to date. I have my Pscan working on two devices (one is an old Windows XP, and the other a Windows 10 notebook style of PC).
Please excuse the ignorance but can someone please tell me how I establish which software version I have in each device and if there is an update available?
Then if there is an update available how do I arrange for that update to take place please?
I think I saw a post relating to this a few days ago but can't seem to find that now and the only reference I can see is one that suggests it is over 12 months old.
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Thank you for the responses, most helpful.
I have also googled/youtubed that topic. The example used something like a bicycle tyre lever. I had a tool like that which came with dash cam supply cable fitting kit.
That together with some ice lollipop sticks did the job.
Totally agree about the disintegration of the foam. The remains of that will have to be cleaned out, and something put in its place.
So far one screw removed and recovered.
Just have to work out a way of putting the binnacle back such that it doesn’t move/rattle.
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