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  • Years ago we had a Peugeot 306 turbo diesel. For its time it went well and was good on the road. Towards the end of its life we fitted some “inexpensive” budget tyres. This car was only used to run back and to for work at that time.
    Grief. If it rained those tyres were lethal. You soon learned to double the stopping distance if it was wet.
    Tyre compound makes a big difference in my view.
    Similarly, but also related to tyre compound, is block pattern and tread depth. Effectively it appears that some manufacturers will tune the tyre to match the vehicle for which it is intended. I believe one supplier machined off half the tread to get replacement tyres to match previous performance simply because they were catering for ever increasing weight due to more and more “stuff” in an engine bay that increased tyre loading.
    Talking to a breakdown recovery driver on one occasion who had worked for a tyre company he said that when a new car model was introduced they spent ages and many miles adjusting features in a tyre by road testing etc simply to get best performance in every respect.
    So it should be no surprise that different tyres offer different performance on the same vehicle. Maintaining that performance when legislation changes or brand/model upgrades change is a challenge.
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  • The best I can offer is page 64 of Roger Parker’s book MGF and TF Restoration Manual. It is complicated, a big fiddle and success is difficult to achieve.
    Good luck.
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  • Whilst members ponder the answer to your question perhaps they could also think how to reduce clearance between the hood and the bodywork just behind the window glass by the hinge point.
    That gap seems to have increased since the hood was treated with Renovo (cleaner,colour, and protector).

    Hoods, what a pain no wonder hard tops became popular.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Stopping distance in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Have you tried entering some numbers into the brembo website for disc size and see what comes back?
    You might find a suitable disc from a standard car (or close enough to require little modification).
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  • Yes, I see what you mean and unless I can find some “official method” to check the castor angle what you suggest will be the way forward as I’m not about to drop the front suspension.
    For the record I have measured the old ball joint holes and the remains of the rivets.
    A 8.5 mm drill shank is just about size for size with the holes in the old ball joint, and I measured the holes at 8.46, 8.5,, and 8.6mm using a digital caliper. So I’d say 8.5mm hole.
    I then tried to get a measurement on the rivets just below the head where they would have been lodged in the wishbone. Those dimensions were somewhat larger, and in no particular order those measurements were 9.26, 9.42, and 9.07.
    So it is easy to see why an 8mm bolt with a maximum thread OD of 7.97mm can “rattle around” a bit leading to several degrees of freedom front to back and consequently on castor.
    At the head of this topic are images of an assembled wishbone and a ball joint. On those images can be seen a rib that lies “in-line” with the outline of the end of the wishbone. Could that be a guide as to intended alignment?
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  • What a job!
    Finally managed to bash the rivets out in-situ using a block of wood to force the wishbone down and a steel tube under the rivet head. Even then it was not easy and far from it in my experience. I have yet to measure the diameter of the rivet where it grips the wishbone but my impression is that that diameter is greater than 8mm. Certainly a standard 8mm drill shank is a loose fit. Similarly the hole in the replacement ball joint is also closer to 8.5 mm but not 9mm in diameter. Consequently the ball joint can be “swung” forward or backwards a little as the 8mm bolts are certainly not a “neat fit”. That means that the castor angle can vary as the 8mm bolts are tightened.
    So does anyone know of a way of setting the castor angle?
    I’m sure it is not meant to be adjusted but that is the situation.
    It may be possible to ream out the innermost of the three holes and fit a larger diameter bolt but in order to rotate the joint to the correct position there must be some way of setting it first.
    Any ideas please?
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  • https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/91901-bonnet-release-remote

    See the "how to" when you have solved it.
    To solve it I think the answer is recorded in one of Roger Parker's books.
    If I can find it I'll indicate which page etc. From what I can recall it is not straightforward but can be done.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic DRL and halo in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I totally agree with the observations made about the increased safety offered by the Halo modification.
    But (although not defending the use of LED, HID, or similar) one must think back to the design, and what was possible with H4/H2 at that time. Whilst illumination might not be quite as good as expected by the standards of today the problem of masking other lights would not have been a problem.
    And who knows what other consequences there are following additions to existing designs without assessment in a laboratory.
    I understand the police might not be interested due to other more important work, but what about your insurance company in the event of an accident where the third party claims they were dazzled, confused, or similar
    Just worth thinking about.

    Personally I’ll probably go for the fog light position option. If I can find a suitable fitting solution for a round lamp.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic DRL and halo in MGF/TF Pitstop
    This is from the regulations. SCHEDULE 7
    PART I
    Requirements relating to obligatory direction indicators and to optional direction indicators to the extent specified in part ii
    PART II
    Requirements relating to optional direction indicators
    1. No vehicle shall be fitted with a total of more than one front indicator
    nor more than two rear indicators, on each side.

    2. Any number of side indicators may be fitted to the side (excluding the front and rear) of a vehicle.

    3. The only other requirements prescribed by these Regulations in respect of any which are fitted are those specified in paragraphs 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12(a) and 12(b) of Part I.

    My attention was drawn to the above earlier today by another well respected source. That would seem to suggest that if you fit and use orange Halos that you must disable the standard OEM equipment.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic DRL and halo in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Yes, I had thought about fog lights as DRL.
    However, I believe the relevant lighting regulations, regardless of age, prohibit the use of fog lights other than in limited visibility.
    For additional lighting which DRL would be I believe the constraints are different.
    I have not measured the height to centre line on mine (as it’s up in the air on axle stands) but I do not believe that fog light position is acceptable for indicators. So that rules out the switchback facility/option.
    As DRL the fog light position should be acceptable but the lumens output needs to be less than the theoretical capability of fog lights so as not to dazzle.

    Pulling the trigger doesn’t help!
    This needs to be as compliant as practically possible whilst at the same time being reliable and effective.
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