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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Non Starter in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Here is a graph showing resistance change with temperature for a thermistor.
    Presumably the device in the car will have an initial value, and once hot that will or should change.
    It might be worth getting a connector (jtpo?) fitted with two wires that could be connected to a multimeter measuring resistance then starting the car (if you can with the easy start) and watching what happens to the resistance as the engine warm up.
    Risk is all yours as in the usual way.
    Potentially an alternative might be to measure resistance cold, then reconnect the standard wiring. Start the engine and let it warm up to standard conditions, then stop the engine disconnect the wiring and measure the resistance. Couple it all back up and restart and then stop and cool down naturally.
    Otherwise change the transmitter and see if it cures the problem.

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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Non Starter in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Reading the ws manual it suggests the Engine Coolant Sensor is a thermistor, and that if it fails the default is to take values from the oil temper sensor. (The sensor output is used in calculating fuelling and timing and is used to provide corrections during start up)
    But it also suggests that should the water sensor fail then the radiator fan should be switched in in fast mode.
    There is more but based on the fan information it may suggest that the sensor is still working.
    A fault code interrogation might show something.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Non Starter in MGF/TF Pitstop
    One point I forgot to mention and I was only reminded of it as I thumbed through the pages of the pdf from dtafast, and that is the fact that the spro range and probably others including OEM ECUs will have a default value.
    Looking at the small changes in output it may be that the default is close to a temperature equivalent of the thermostat opening temperature.
    If that is the case then once the car is running and warm it will continue to run and re start until it cools down a lot.
    It may also be a case of an aftermarket instrument has been fitted in the past with different characteristics.

    I agree that tracking could be cause particularly if the car had been used with road salt present.
    Either way my thoughts are check the water transducers and associated wiring first.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Non Starter in MGF/TF Pitstop
    https://www.dtafast.co.uk/download_files/Manuals/S%20Series%20Manual.pdf
    And page 146 and the next few.
    Have you always had problems starting from cold? If so it may not be the cooling water sensor but if the problem is new it could be a.failing sensor, the wrong sensor, or resistance in the wiring that is affecting the ECU .
    As far as I’m aware the sensor will change its resistance as temperature changes under normal circumstances.
    It would seem logical to think that a small variation in resistance somewhere will give the ECU false information and inhibit the start up process.
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Non Starter in MGF/TF Pitstop
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  • Delbourt replied to the topic Non Starter in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I’m no expert and have no experience on a MGTF to really help. However, it does sound a bit like no choke syndrome if it were an MGB.
    Based on an ECU I had on a kit car it might be worth testing the cooling water temperature and air temperature sensor..
    It is my understanding that an ECU is programmed to make the mixture richer for start-up when the cooling water is cold. It is or at least can be also programmed to enrichen the mixture for an initial number of revolutions of the crankshaft. Presumably that counting is achieved by the crank sensor and that must be working otherwise the whole thing would not run.

    Be interesting to know what you find as the solution.
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  • Yesterday, I cut a piece of thin Aluminium sheet and bonded that with Araldite to the outer side of the casing bits.
    Always a bit of an unknown trying to stick something to plastics but it does seem to have stuck.
    I don’t expect it to last for years so I now have a spare on order from ebay. It can’t be any worse. It is my intention to return the new one with a complaint.
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  • I understand what you are saying about “pulling into shape”. I did try that but as you see there is both a twist and bend in the profile.
    There are bolts in the top half of that cover section only with none at the bottom. As soon as the top half is pulled up the bottom “kicks away”, at least that was what I could see happening.
    Secondly “pulling into shape” was effectively what I was doing by pushing it on the floor when it broke!
    Not my best day at the office.
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  • The simple answer is “yes”.
    At the moment it is “resting” after having a piece of Aluminium bonded to the outside of the broken casing with Araldite. Time will tell how successful that is. It could be 15 seconds, or less, or a successful bond that lasts ages.
    When the cure time is up I’ll post some images.
    The brand new item from Rimmers has an even more pronounced distortion than the one I broke.
    It doesn’t help to see that the “nut” that the bottom is supposed to locate over is presenting corners rather than flats for the locating aspect.
    The upper back half or section of this cover does seem to be able to rock a bit and may well be leaning towards the engine and again this doesn’t help.

    Here are two images of the new one as received from Rimmers. I propose to contact them on Monday about this.


    The gap at the corner will just take a £2 coin unfortunately it fell over before I noticed it when taking the image.
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  • Ok, here goes. It is a basic 135 not VVC. I refer to the upper part of the cam belt cover system that is removed to show access to the two cam wheels. It fits around the engine mount and continues to the bottom where it locates around a single nut (but not held in by that nut).
    The cover has 5(?) M6 bolts in the upper section.
    Rimmer Bros part number LJR104000
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