Topic

Hello - back story, I’ve not started the car since before Christmas and hence a flat battery. Never had any issues with the car before this.

2003 TF 135.

My new CTEK charged my flat battery no issue. Great piece of kit. Now when I use the fob to lock the car after a few moments the flashers flash (alarm sounder/horn is unplugged to not annoy anyone). I can lock and unlock with the key or fob but using the fob sets the alarm and then after a few moments it activates the flashers (and horn I guess if it was plugged in).

I initially thought it was because I had the charger attached but I’ve removed it now.

So what gives? Following the flat battery and subsequent charging do I need to reset the alarm? Note, I also disconnected the battery leads whilst I fitted my CTEK comfort charger leads but considering the battery was flat I figured this would make no odds.

What type of fobs have you got ? Pektron ( round ) or lucas ( square ) ?
I suspect that you have the Lucas type immobiliser and that it needs to be re synchronised with the alarm immobiliser ecu , although I could be wrong . If it's the Lucas square type fob , I would replace the fob battery first and then standing next to the car press the lock button four to six times to re sync . If you have the round type fob ( Pectron) you may need to contact Paul Brown at Technozen to help you sort it out but the immobiliser ecu and all fobs will need sending to him . You could contact Remobilise as a few folk on here have used them to sort this sort of problem out .
John .

Have you tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and quickly pushing the bob lock then unlock buttons, repeating the process several times ? It sometimes works, so repeat it a few times if it doesnt at first, always worth a try as this sometimes works on it's own.

I have been informed that i have a Pektron, round/oval type thing.
I think i may have jumped the gun by blaming the alarm issue on my letting the battery go flat (because i didn't have any issues before).

Do you feel confident in removing the immobiliser ecu , it's behind the center console. You will need a Torx (+ ) bit to remove it . Technozen ( Paul Brown) can supply you with one if you contact him and then send the fobs and ecu to him to sort out. He is a great guy to talk to and knows his stuff about issues like this. The Pectron system is very good when working but can be pesky when this sort of thing happens. The fobs if pressed too many times when out of range of the car can roll outside parameters of what the ecu expects to see but I'm surprised neither fob works. There are more knowledgeable folk on here that may come to you aid but I would be looking to Technozen for advice.

John
PS Do you have the EKA code ? If so try and get the car started by using the code and see if the system sorts itself out.

Good news, it stopped raining for a bit on Sunday so i whipped the cover off and started the car (not started it since charging the battery remember) and what do ya know, its all back to normal. Dunno if starting the car has any impact on resetting the alarm/immobiliser but i have plugged the alarm sounder/horn back in and it sets as it should, On pressing the lock part of the fob the red LED on the dash flashes furiously for a few moments (whilst holding my breath) and then settled down to a slow flash (and breath).
On a general note, i let her warm up, took her for a spin, water temp gauge just below halfway, oil temp was about 90 (hard to tell on that gauge) and radiator cooling fan was coming on and going off correctly.
So spring is in the air, all is good in the MG TF world.
Sticky throttle next....

Oh, almost forgot, to my forum stalker, i will be posting this in all three forums that i normally post in.
To the other helpful forum members, thank you.

A while ago a member was troubled with a sticking throttle. After looking at the throttle body & finding things in order, his attention turned to the cable, which he changed.
To his chagrin it made little difference & short of inspiration he turned to us lot. Take a look at the throttle pedal, short of tying string to your toe, the MG pedal is just about as basic as it could be. As designed the trunnions of the pedal sit in nylon bearings, which in turn push into punched holes in the mounting bracket. The whole lot rusts due to the inevitable damp, which causes the trunnions to rust into the nylon, the nylon then turn within the bracket.
This isn’t the best of bearings & causes problems as you might imagine.
Whether anyone is making replacements I don’t know but as I have a workshop I made my own out of brass, with startling results.
M

Forum member with sticky pedal ..... err , that would be me then .

John

Yes that’s you John, a great chunk of advice there, thanks from me & who ever else acted on your advice.
These nuggets are invaluable & illustrate yet again the wisdom of keeping up with the site.
Those who pay attention salute you.
M

Err, yes, that other person might be me. I posted about it here.

This bit of maintenance was more effective than replacing the throttle cable (actually, the new cable made NO difference). Now, a few years later, it's bit sticky again so I guess I'll have to get down to the pedal again and give it a bit more grease.

Hi AP /M. I joined the forum at a similar time to yourself after taking the plunge on the purchase of my TF. I have to say that both decisions have been good , although ' her indoors' would probably not agree with the purchase of the TF and I have no doubt that I will be reminded of this when I/ We take the TF on our planned road trip to Italy later this year. This is partly due to a distinct lack of luggage space for 'girly' stuff!
Anyway I digress. I was slightly alarmed to hear of a problem with my Niece's car , not I hasten to add an MG but, a Suzuki swift . It blew its gasket on her way to work and after talking to her about it the garage have told her that the gasket was indeed blown and that it needed a replacement engine! Sacre bleu and words to that extent . I enquired if she had driven it far from the first warning of trouble and she assured me no, not far. I then made the obvious ( to me anyway) did you not see any warning from the temperature gauge? Her reply was .. the Suzuki Swift doesn't have one!!! Well that took me by surprise . You see our F's n TF's aren't perfect and they were built on MG/Rover's bargain basement budget but they do have a temp gauge , not that it helps the impending doom coolant loss from the K series engine.
So when you are next to your MG and the local know all tyre kicker comes up to you and starts to visually pull it apart, just dig him in the ribs and say , Yep , its not perfect but its mine so BUGGER OFF !
Keep piling in the information guys cos people like us keep these cars going .
Regards as ever , John .

And thanks Bruce. All these instances occurred within a short time, I wander how many more members acted on this great advice.
If your throttle is a bit fidgety have a look at the pedal bearings, a dob of grease could make all the difference, saving you money on a new cable & possibly getting someone to fit it.
Conversely you might crick your neck or put your back out whilst rummaging under the steering wheel, costing considerably more in chiropractic charges.
Just saying.
M