Delbourt

My experience here is with a Vauxhall 2L “red top” engine .
After re building the engine if fitted after market hydraulic tappets that came in a plastic box filled with a fluid of some sort.
Due to various delays some fluid was lost before installation.
One tappet was a right little problem and never did get better regardless of the number of oil changes and flushing agents used.
But changing the oil did quieten the rest down.
So, in conclusion what have you got to lose?
If it doesn’t work, put a flushing agent in and change the oil again, then “back to the drawing board”.
That would be my approach.

As I understand it the VVC engine does not have variable lift but variable duration. In some way that might be similar as presumably varying the lift at any specific point before or after top dead centre by varying the duration is effectively the same.
That potential variation appears to be well over 10 degrees, so from a mechanical point of view it would appear that a small difference in timing belt alignment is ok.
Doesn’t solve the issue but…….

It is wrong to assume but presumably re programming the MEMS3 and thereby affecting the interaction with ring around the ignition switch has no effect on the “burglar alarm features”?

Great, got that now, thank you all.

The fact that a remap means that the proximity of the fob is no longer required prompts an interesting thought.
At present there is an electronic ring around the column which must have in it an “electronic switch” of some sort, and as far as I understand it that ring (Rotary Coupler - YRC100410) is required to be operative for the horn to work.
So does a map upgrade mean the horn no longer works, or is the ring still functional requiring the fob to be in close proximity for other functions such as horn to still work.
I suspect the answer is yes.

Thank you for that clarity. That at least answers one question when it comes to insurance quotations.

Now I just have to think about why there is a low level backfire when lifting off to change gear or on the overrun (unless that is normal for a TF135).
Revs at this point are most unlikely to be much above 4000 and probably lower. In due course I will have to pay more attention as to when that backfire takes place i.e. what is taking place at the time and what the rpm is.

Thank you for the suggestion for further clarity.
At this point in time I have three keys each with their respective fobs. All three have been re synchronized using Pscan and all three work.
I can lock the car with the key and unlock it with the fob (any fob - Lucas type).
At this point in time I do not know if I remove a fob from the key ring whether the engine can be started by just entering the key in the ignition and turning it. For other reasons that have no bearing on this topic starting the car is not practical at the moment. I can go and remove a fob from a key ring, insert the key on its own in the door lock and unlock the car then put that key in the ignition and turn it to the first position without attempting to start the car and see what happens.
I'll do that and report back.

Edit
Using what I believe to be the original key (folding type with MG Logo) I removed the electronic fob and placed that some distance from the car. I then opened the car door with the key, put the key in the ignition and turned it to the first position that engages the panel warning lights. That immediately initiated a low level high pitch two tone alarm within the cabin but not the car horn alarm, although I know that works if I open the boot/bonnet without disarming the alarm. With the low level interior alarm sounding the red LED alarm was flashing.
In for a penny in for a pound determined that I would have a quick attempt to start the car with the intention to see if I could just get the starter motor to start turning. So, on turning the key there was no response apart from the continuing alarm total silence from the engine. I'm not even sure now if the fuel pump went through the motions or not I certainly was not listening out for that.

In answer to the question regarding "can I start the engine with key alone?" , the answer is at this point in time I don't know. I'm fairly certain that the answer is "No" because when I bought the car it only had one functioning fob and key. In other words I had a spare key (and possibly a fob but that fob either needed a battery or re synchronising). The key itself would enter the petrol cap and possibly the door or ignition but not both and not the boot. After a bit of grinding and use of a file I removed some more metal and it would enter all locks and operate each one (but as stated without the fob no engine start as far as I can recall and there may even have been an alarm if tried (but it is a while back now).