MOT failure

:yesnod: Usually the bearing inside the handbrake mech disintegrates, leaving a non-functioning handbrake.

David Aiketgate wrote: :yesnod: Usually the bearing inside the handbrake mech disintegrates, leaving a non-functioning handbrake.

So is that a yes, or is the bearing replaceable ? bearing or bush?

It's really not worth repairing, get a new or refurbed caliper.

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Unless you have a deep desire to repair the handbrake mech' I would leave it alone & buy, as Steve says, a new or recon' set.
As David reports water gets in to the bearing, which is a needle roller assembly with a gap in the race to allow a peg, operated by the actuator rod, to pass through, this then acts on the piston assembly. The brake actuator rod, which is cradled by the bearing has a recess machined in it to form an eccentric, which acts on the peg. And unless you have actually seen it, this lot won't make much sense & to see it you have have the right tools to strip it down & the key item would be a pair of right angles long nosed circlip pliers, man enough to unclip the two circlips yet fine enough to get them down the piston hole. Taking them out isn't too bad, but that's only half the job.
There is a suggestion that the liberal application of that “Sperm of Satan”, WD40, might free a seized mech' & get some function back, it won't last long & the chemicals in the fluid could attack the rubber within the mech' which has the potential to cause failure.
Anyway unless you have all the right tools, rubbers, lubricants & know what you're about, leave brakes to a qualified engineer.

I have now changed the calliper with a recon from Euro car parts, it works out at around £65 once I give them my old calliper.
My window regulator also turned up so I put that back on.
The window is a bit sluggish despite me lubricating the runners ?
Just the emissions to sort out now.

How did you lubricate the runners?
Have you silicone lubricated the vertical guides as well?

talkingcars wrote: How did you lubricate the runners?
Have you silicone lubricated the vertical guides as well?

Yes it seems like the glass is tight against the outer door seal ? (when I move the window without being connected).
The glass finishes in a good position when up, it's just then it's getting there when it's struggling.

You can adjust the the glass angle to relieve pressure on the door rubber, it's done in the fixings lower in the door.

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:woohoo: The Italian tune up worked, it sailed through the retest :woo2:
Now to prepare the car for the winter.

Well done Steve . Earned yourself a little drinkie !

John