Topic

Hey guys

first of all

I'm BACK! internet is fixed! big woop for Martind1!!!

anyway

I'm taking my TF off the road soon if the weather picks up

there nothing wrong with her (well there is but nothing deadly) i simply want to fix all the little things, do all the little jobs and such

so here is a list of what im doing and requests for advice. also if you think of anything worth doing please shout up!!!



one big job is to try and Rust proof the whole car!

so BOTH subframes are coming out and the car will be as rust proofed as i can make it

i would like if i could some of your thoughts on How to do this?

is wire brushing surface rust and painting with hammerite followed by liberal coats of waxoyl the way forward? or is their better ways?

the inlet manifold gasket needs replacing

all bolts will be replaced

belts on the engine will be done (if i can do them myself which i figure why not?)

subframes will be wire brushed and painted and waxoyled (if thats what needs doing)

the passenger door will be replaced

bonnet pins and

hopefully clives bonnet fitted

gas struts will be fitted to boot and bonnet

solenoids will be fit to the doors and boot with safety lines

my leather T-bar and arm rests will be fit as will an s2000 start button

the list goes on

the plan really is to sort EVERYTHING i can afford to on the car, due to V-TEC plans i will only be spending £100 (not inc the bonnet). the £100 is for bolts, coolant, belts etc

please any ideas on what should be done at the same time shout up and how to do stuff as well!!!

I'm actually very interested in the gas struts on the boot and bonnet myself so let me know how those go.

Hi Mike, when you get the subframes out, use a wire brush on an electric drill to remove rust, then treat with POR15 which you can mail order from Frosts, it is a two pack epoxy system and is better than Hammerite, must treat the bare metal first with their rust killer. yes use waxoil on the INSIDE of the subframes because they tend to rust from the inside out, clean up the lower front wishbones in the same way and fill the inside with waxoil

Bryan Young;14704 wrote: wrote:

Hi Mike, when you get the subframes out, use a wire brush on an electric drill to remove rust, then treat with POR15 which you can mail order from Frosts, it is a two pack epoxy system and is better than Hammerite, must treat the bare metal first with their rust killer. yes use waxoil on the INSIDE of the subframes because they tend to rust from the inside out, clean up the lower front wishbones in the same way and fill the inside with waxoil

never herd of POR15 is it a paint? and do you then cover it in waxoyl?

have plenty of wire brushes on standby

bare metal with rust killer? so will just removing the rust not be enough?

Adam-MGTF;14710 wrote: wrote:

never herd of POR15 is it a paint? and do you then cover it in waxoyl?

have plenty of wire brushes on standby

bare metal with rust killer? so will just removing the rust not be enough?

POR15 is a solvent based Epoxy paint system that is designed to "Stop Rust Permanently" which you can get from Frost Auto Restoration Techniques Ltd www.frost.co.uk ~ have a look at their website cos they do loads of special treatments for metals and car restoration. you dont need to put waxoil over the paint finish, but it would be a good idea to spray the insides of the subframes with waxoil as they tend to rust from the inside out. please bear in mind that they were dipped into a chassis paint when they were originally made, which did not provide a good long lasting protection and is the reason they do rust through. their predecessors on the Mini, the 1100 and the Metro all had the same rusting through problems. It is really "belt &braces" to apply a rust neturaliser to the bare metal before painting, although POR15 claims it encapsulates it is reccomended before painting over with POR15 ~ full details are on the frost website. hope this helps

Bryan Young;14725 wrote: wrote:

POR15 is a solvent based Epoxy paint system that is designed to "Stop Rust Permanently" which you can get from Frost Auto Restoration Techniques Ltd www.frost.co.uk ~ have a look at their website cos they do loads of special treatments for metals and car restoration. you dont need to put waxoil over the paint finish, but it would be a good idea to spray the insides of the subframes with waxoil as they tend to rust from the inside out. please bear in mind that they were dipped into a chassis paint when they were originally made, which did not provide a good long lasting protection and is the reason they do rust through. their predecessors on the Mini, the 1100 and the Metro all had the same rusting through problems. It is really "belt &braces" to apply a rust neturaliser to the bare metal before painting, although POR15 claims it encapsulates it is reccomended before painting over with POR15 ~ full details are on the frost website. hope this helps

fantastic mate, having a good look now

had a good look at the POR15 stuff and it seems too good to be true..... so im wary lol

have you used it before mate? and do you use all three products?

the "metal treatment" http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8229&frostProductName=Metal%20Ready%20(946ml,%20US%20Quart)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37

the "paint" http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9609&frostProductName=Gray%20POR%2015%20Rust%20Prevention%20Paint%20(473ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37

and the "coating" http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8202&frostProductName=POR15%20Chassis%20Coat%20Black%20(473ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37


or do u just use 1 or the other? im assuming the first is a treatment, the second is just "special" paint and the last coating is like waxoyl???

Adam-MGTF;14734 wrote: wrote:

had a good look at the POR15 stuff and it seems too good to be true..... so im wary lol

have you used it before mate? and do you use all three products?

the "metal treatment" http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8229&frostProductName=Metal%20Ready%20(946ml,%20US%20Quart)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37

the "paint" http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9609&frostProductName=Gray%20POR%2015%20Rust%20Prevention%20Paint%20(473ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37

and the "coating" http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8202&frostProductName=POR15%20Chassis%20Coat%20Black%20(473ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=POR-15&subCatID=37


or do u just use 1 or the other? im assuming the first is a treatment, the second is just "special" paint and the last coating is like waxoyl???

just got a load of POR-15 for my Lotus Excel as i am nuts-and-bolts rebuilding that... great products and the do what they say on the tin..

Ozzy_Uk;14810 wrote: wrote:

just got a load of POR-15 for my Lotus Excel as i am nuts-and-bolts rebuilding that... great products and the do what they say on the tin..

cool are they difficult to use or can a total spanner use them?.... for instance the sort of idiot thats 2 spark plugs short of an engine block and wont stop pulling his car apart....... in other words can i manage it?

Frosts can supply POR15 paint in kits of small tins, it is not that difficult to use as after all it is only a paint. it is reccomended that you dont bother to clean the brushes after use, they take so much solvent to clean and unless you remove all traces of paint they will still go hard. and as OZZY has said it is "magic stuff" ~ try buying a small starter tin and paint some small items like suspension arms or the anti roll bar to see how you get on. you will be ok, if you can weild the angle grinder like you do with aplomb, i am sure you can paint, remember if the first coat is rubbish put onother one on!!

Bryan Young;14949 wrote: wrote:

Frosts can supply POR15 paint in kits of small tins, it is not that difficult to use as after all it is only a paint. it is reccomended that you dont bother to clean the brushes after use, they take so much solvent to clean and unless you remove all traces of paint they will still go hard. and as OZZY has said it is "magic stuff" ~ try buying a small starter tin and paint some small items like suspension arms or the anti roll bar to see how you get on. you will be ok, if you can weild the angle grinder like you do with aplomb, i am sure you can paint, remember if the first coat is rubbish put onother one on!!

angle grinders and hammers im good with "delicate stuff" like paint and electrics i tend to struggle and end up uttering a string of four letter words and throwing things lol

shall get myself a starter pack and have a go!

Adam-MGTF;15063 wrote: wrote:

angle grinders and hammers im good with "delicate stuff" like paint and electrics i tend to struggle and end up uttering a string of four letter words and throwing things lol

shall get myself a starter pack and have a go!

Do NOT get it on your skin... your skin will come off before the paint will!!! lol!