Topic

This is my first How To.... so, I know I will have not done it by the book nor the way some of you 'professional' MG'ers would have done. But it worked for me. Also I could not actually find a 'How To' when I wanted to know how to go about it. All I could find was 'drop the sub frame' & 'bolts are made of chocolate & cheese'. Also be aware that the photos are taken on both sides of the car.
I am not a mechanic so I may even use terms & expressions that make perfect sense to me but maybe technically incorrect.

Here we go.

As per any job when you are under the vehicle, use chocks & axle stands.

Before I really got going & actually buying any parts, I checked that all the necessary bolts would loosen.

Now loosen & remove the pinch bolt holding the steering column to the steering rack.






There is a Scrivet in the wheel arch that needs to be removed prior to the subframe being lowered or it will get ripped out!!! Been there, done that.




The bolt holding the front of the wishbone can be removed. You will either need to remove a grommet at the front of the sub or peel away the tape. This will then reveal access to the bolt (19mm)







With a jack supporting the subframe, loosen the three bolts at the rear of the subframe.



Then the two bolts holding the front of the sub need to be removed. On both sides of Rosie one of the captive nuts was loose. If so, as in my case, a 13mm spanner is required.





I thought that at this point, if I lowered the jack then the sub would lower. No. I undid the bolt at the bottom of the front suspension dampner. Making note of the order of spacer, washers etc.






Now the sub lowers when you lower the jack.

This now gives you access to the rear wishbone bolt previously hindered by the chassis.









The more astute will notice from the above picture that I have also unbolted the track-rod end / steering rack from the hub.

You now need to remove the pinch bolt holding the lower ball joint to the hub.

Once the three bolts have been removed, front & rear wishbone and lower ball joint, you can ease the wishbone out of the sub. I say ease, they always say 'ease'. They mean pull, hit, threaten & generally lose your rag at it. You may find it easier to remove the anti roll bar on the side of the car you are working on. By so doing there is a bit more play in the up & down movement.

Once out, installing is the reverse of removal. Yeah right.

It is once you have managed to get the bolts back into the front & rear of the wishbone. They are a pig. Luckily my bolts were tapered. Once I got to see about a third of the hole in the front fitting, I put the bolt in & gave it a gentle 'tap' with my Manchester Spanner. I used the long extension bar from the socket set as a drift. Once it's in the hole you're away. Do the front & rear wishbone bolts, then the lower ball joint.

Then refit as removed. When doing the sub bolts front & rear, I found it easier to leave the sub a few millimeters short so that I could see the holes clearer. Also you can move the sub as necessary to realign.

When you come to refit the steering pinion in the cockpit, there is only one orientation it will refit. I was trying for a long time to ensure that the wheels were relatively straight in relation to the steering wheel. No need, it lines up ok.

On thing to be aware of when you are on your back with your head in the footwell wrestling with the pinion & steering column. It is ever so easy to upset the brake light switch, do check all is well once you have finished.

Finally a picture or two to show why I went through it all. The front right was an advisory at last years MoT. Found replacements in good order fitted with Polyflex bushes. Glad I did it, absolutely horrified by what I found.

Excellent 'How To'. Well done

Nice one.

A great addition to the how tos!