MGF Rear Track Control Arm - How To

7 years 10 months ago - 7 years 10 months ago #73450 by PQD44
The problem?

You may get an advisory or a fail at MOT time for excessive play in the rear track control arm (the inner bush or the ball joint of the track rod end) or find it during the checks you do every couple of months :whistle: You notice that with the rear wheels off the ground you can feel some movement, in and out, when gripping the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.





Excessive wear in the rear track control arm can eventually be felt through the car which may feel 'slightly odd', with possibly judder felt from the rear or in the car during acceleration or braking. Uneven tyre wear on the rear may also be seen.

See Clive's How To for steering checks

In my case the movement was in the ball joint at the end of the track arm. When trying to purchase a replacement a call to my local motor factors revealed the MGF rear track control arm, part No. RGZ100050, is priced at between £100 and £254 depending on where you ask. The ball joint on this component is described as non-serviceable and does not appear on their parts lists.
A quick search on the internet reveals suggestions that the front track rod end off the Rover 200 will fit the track control arm. £6.50 later a Rover 200 track rod end is purchased ready for the job.




If lateral movement is found in the inner bush new replacements can be purchased for about £20 - £30. The cheapest I found was from a company called Temple Tuning who advertise as ‘Fuel Pumps Online. The part No. is PFR42-220 MGF Rear Inner Track Control Arm Bush.

Click here to go directly to their website

EDIT: I just found the same bushes at a cheaper price :woohoo:

Click here £35.81 inc VAT for both sides


Tools needed:

Ball joint splitter (I would recommend the scissor type), Axle stands, trolley jack, wheel chocks, Torque wrench, sockets 15mm and 17mm, adjustable wrench


The Fix:

Chock the front wheels then raise the rear side of the car to be worked on. Having secured the car on axle stand(s), remove the wheel. Penetrating oil can now be applied to the areas to be worked on.

Release the nut off the end of the track rod end, TRE.
You now need to use the ball joint splitter to separate the arm from the hub.



As shown in the photo above the order of work is;
To remove the old TRE, use a spanner or monkey grips hold the threaded bar in place. Slacken off the locking nut next to the TRE. Still gripping the threaded bar then unscrew the TRE.
Screw the replacement TRE in place.
Fit the TRE bolt through the hole in the hub then using a torque wrench on the new locking nut tighten to 30Nm.
Go back to the other end of the TRE and tighten the locking nut on the threaded bar up to the TRE.



This photo shows the new and old TRE's side by side. I checked all the relevant measurements and the two are identical from a functional point of view.

Inner Bush Replacement.
If replacing the inner bush of the track control arm is needed I would also replace the TRE at the same time, as for the sake of £6.50 it is worth the peace of mind.
Remove TRE locking nut, release TRE as above then remove the bolt securing the track arm to the subframe.
Replace the bush and then reassemble using a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to 80Nm.
NOTE: There should be some rotational movement of the track control arm.




REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT must now be checked and adjusted if necessary after replacing either the TRE or inner bush.
The following user(s) said Thank You: cjj, David Aiketgate, mogatrons, Leigh Ping, bandit, Jimuth

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7 years 10 months ago #73481 by Diesel Destroyer
Cracking write up Paul

Do you know if anyone sells replacement rubbers for the other end? The 2x either side of the subframe end

Took mine off to restore and started thinking about buying a brand new pair as the rubbers are cracked

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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7 years 10 months ago #73483 by Diesel Destroyer
Edit.. Does that poly bush set replace the 'inner bush end'?

Subframe end..

If so how do you get the metal one out?

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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7 years 10 months ago #73484 by bensewell
Good writeup I might need this for some tweaks on my advisories ;)

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7 years 10 months ago - 7 years 10 months ago #73485 by PQD44

Diesel Destroyer wrote: Edit.. Does that poly bush set replace the 'inner bush end'?

Subframe end..

If so how do you get the metal one out?


Yes the poly bush replaces the subframe end of the track control arm. The link for the bush is just under the photo of the new TRE in my original post.

The replacement of these bushes I have not done, but I would think it may need the central tube section in the middle of the bush cutting to remove it.

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7 years 10 months ago #73493 by Diesel Destroyer
Ive just been looking at mine...

Would think it needs to be drilled out..

Top find.. will order the polybush kit and 2x new TRE

Thank you again for a top how too :beer:

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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7 years 10 months ago #73498 by PQD44

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7 years 10 months ago #73508 by mowog73
Thanks Paul, this is really good information to have.

Mark
95 MGF
The following user(s) said Thank You: PQD44

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7 years 10 months ago #73982 by peter81

PQD44 wrote: The problem?
A quick search on the internet reveals suggestions that the front track rod end off the Rover 200 will fit the track control arm. £6.50 later a Rover 200 track rod end is purchased ready for the job.

good news! :broon:
The following user(s) said Thank You: PQD44

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7 years 10 months ago #74046 by cjj
I wonder if the poly bush kit would fit the TF arm.

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7 years 10 months ago #74069 by PQD44
Not sure on that one Clive. When researching I only ever saw them listed for the MGF :dry:

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7 years 10 months ago #74352 by Diesel Destroyer
Just ordered the poly bush set...

Do we have a part number for the Rover 200 TREs?

Allan

Diesel Destroyer.. 'The bringer of dreams'

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