As said on previous threads there is no great magic to the lock mechanism. If a mechanism's electrics go bad those wires can just be diverted to an aftermarket central locking actuator to replace the lock state switch and solenoid leaving the original lock mechanism as purely a mechanical latch.
The superlock is an acute irritation when it jams especially on the passenger door. When it's working fine this feature its about as much practical use on a convertible as an ashtray on a motorbike.
The poxy wire gets a quick snip on each F & TF Ive had.
If the relay is bad, you will need to remove the SCU which is behind the center console. There are a few threads already on how to do this with pictures. It requires a special bit to remove the unit and can be accessed by removing the cover in the footwell.
Once removed, you can send the unit to Technozen to replace the relay. Best to replace all 5 of them, as the original relays are low quality.
I guess your main challenge will be getting into the car, or if the top is down, the contortions you will have to do to access the SCU while the doors are closed.
Sorry for the delay, thanks for all the info guys!
I've tested the old drivers latch mechanism after removing it, and have found no contact from the bottom microswitch which senses the lock/unlock meaning when key or pin is used, it's not telling the SCU that it's changed, could this also impact the fob not working it as well?
I just don't get how the microswitch and relay would have failed at the same time, if the relays are all good then should the new microswitch fix the issue?
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