EllisoJo

GreenComet wrote:

Thanks - I've gone ahead and purchased one this morning.

I have a few questions and would be really grateful for help in answering them:

1) What glue can be used to attach the sensor to the expansion tank? I'm looking for a glue that won't compromise the integrity of the tank plastic

2) Is there anyone local to Southampton/Eastleigh who could help me fit this kit?

Many thanks

Matt

I have fitted that system to a 2002TF. Very happy with the results:
I added a low-current-demand LED, which I positioned in the vacant "Transmission Fail" instrument panel position:


I have had a couple of brief False Alarms, only when ascending steep hills & cornering. My wife finds it annoying that it sounds both when ignition turn to 1st position, then again at engine start, but I like that "feature": You KNOW it is "available for duty". To kepp the buzzer & wife quiet, I have added a switch between buzzer and the "output" side of the circuit, so that ONLY the light illuminates when:
1. Wife is in car
2. I have remembered to isolate the buzzer!

Other pictures you might find helpful if you choose the LED route (assuming your car is NOT Steptronic/Stepspeed)

P.S. If you fancy a trip to East Devon (Honiton area), I would be happy to show my set up and offer guidance on how I routed wires, chickened-out of using reversing-light feed and found spare output on fuse box etc.

P.M. me if you need to
John E

digcot65 wrote:

Hello I went to the car today,to bleed the recon front caliper but I am unable to get any fluid out of the bleed nipple .I removed the pipe from the caliper and nothing pours or drips out of it,when pressing the brake pedal . I think being an old pipe,when I had it clamped it hasnt recovered and is now blocked .So it wouldnt harm to replace it anyway I will still check how clear it is Ive always found,when you take the pipe off the caliper brake fluid always come out of it .Start one job and another pops up Len

If you choose to use Braide hoses rather than OEM, beware the hose "winding-up" as you tighten the Banjo. There is no anti-rotation/locating "Lug" on the Braided hose. One side of the car (Cannot remember which) the hose WILL tend to move to the wrong position, where suspension & steering movement might put the hose under tension. Pictures of the wire restraint I made, to hold the braided hose in the "Right position is attached.
ALSO: I do NOT like the stainless steel banjo bolts Goodrich & probably other suppliers use. The cross hole goes right through (Only 1 side on OEM) thus reducing strength on what is almost certainly a lower tensile strength (stainless) stell, versus standard plated High-tensile steel. One of my stainless-steel banjos was sheared. See picture at end.
I have replaced all with normal banjos.

MGB281 wrote:

If it has a KMaps upgrade it could have the pops and bangs addition, I didn’t want it on ours.
Over fifty years ago I used to drive a petrol LandRover to go to social events. Coming home late at night we would turn off the ignition while driving through the small villages for a couple of seconds then back on again which resulted in an almighty bang. I have now grown up a little.

That made me smile!
When I had my kit car "Gordon" (2.3litre slant 4 Vauxhall engine with twin Stomberg carbs)

I fitted an ignition cut-out with a hidden switch as a security measure.
I have to confess to the good citizens of Wells that on approaching their fair City, I once turned off this switch (by mistake of course!) then switched back on at the bottom of the hill. The Back-Fire which resulted certainly frightened ME, so a suspect that a few birds thought that a shot-gun had been fired close to their perches!
I have also grown up a little, though my wife will disagree.

GreenComet wrote:

Hi all,

You may or may not remember that I bought a low-ish miles TF back in November, but was disappointed to find rust in all of the wheelarches (photo attached of one of them)

Nice looking car!
If you want to keep mud out of the repaired area between the lower front wings and the plastic wheel-arch liner, you may want to try my cheap "Mud Excluder" sticky-back-plastic trick. Se phots attached: It is important (IMO) to keep a vent hole free at the bottom, to prevent a build-up of condensation behind this plastic.

I strongly suspect that when you replaced the subframes you (quite correctly) had the alignment checked & adjusted by "professionals"
They almost certainly used the WRONG figures!
See the experiences of MGB281: I quote from one of his many posts below:

I took our TF to our local ATS and it came back darting all over the road. I took it back with the correct specs and they did it again, their database is incorrect for the TF, they claim that the database is supplied by the manufacturers of the alignment equipment. I personally think a lot of complaints of the TF being a bity darty is incorrect rear wheel alignment, we have "tested" ours on the roads and is incredibly surefooted

As you can see, it is actually a problem with the REAR end having the wrong figures in the ATS data base. I THINK I have the correct MG ROVER numbers in one of Roger Parkers books. PM me if you are unable to find the data.
Regards
John E (also in Devon BTW)

Those wires are for the heated rear window. I am guessing that your f or TF was never fitted with an HRW, but I believe that ALL cars had the wiring "ready to go" for an HRW. A switch & a solenoid have to be installed to "Wake up" those wires, so unless you buy a hardtop or fit a glass rear window with heating (which my "new" one has), and I believe all rear glass screens all have.

In my opinion, a wet vacuum cleaner with the sort of small nozzle for upholstery is a good idea. There is no guarantee when "rinsing-off" cleaner that all of the dirt, algae etc. will be lifted off/out of the fabric. The wet vacuum will rinse-out the cleaning liquid AND all the muck, before using Renovo or whatever. It certainly worked well on the second-hand hood (with glass rear window) which I purchased. It was quite dirty, with lots of green algae. It now looks pristine.

Airportable wrote:

From the use of that word in that context told me that you were knowledgeable in bearings & failures of such. To have that information implies that you must have worked at a high level in engineering & probably aerospace.

Well never " at a high level", but my apprenticeship was at Rolls Royce Bristol Engine Division, back in the good old days where governments had the sense to have a scheme called the Engineering Industry Training Board: EITB. That took a levy from all Engineering Companies over a certain size, then paid that money out to companies (like RR) who ran "approved" Apprenticeship courses. As a result, when RR went bust on February 4th 1971, no apprentices were made redundant.

My career strayed from "engineering & probably aerospace", though I sold lots of kit to BA Systems, Rolls Royce Aero Engines.