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  • I live near the edge of Somerset and have used the following guy for some secondhand parts for my MGTF. I cannot speak for any work he has done, but he restores & sells F & TFs and other members of the F Register/MGCC speak highly of him.
    Martin Smith, I have found his website and will call and/or email him before my next trip in that direction, as he said he is not always at the E. Lydford site. I assume that the contact details below are correct?:
    07722175473
    If you visit his workshop, use this postcode: East Lydford, Somerton, TA11 7DR, NOT the one on his website, because the postcode above takes you to the correct gate at the end of the track to his workshop.
    Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
    Good luck
    John E
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  • EllisoJo updated his profile
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  • Deepfat's idea of checking again while your TF is on a ramp, moving it slightly to stimulate the noise while you stand underneath sounds like an excellent idea.  I was wondering if you had investigated Joulian foulger's suggestion: Ref. https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/97507-undetectable-rattle-at-the-front-offside#196075?  A bar behind the dash, loose at one end is a possibility, and would be more difficult to hear UNDER the car?

    I have investigated inside the driver's door. The rattle is now different, but still there, despite adding foam padding behind what I THOUGHT was the culprit!  At least I know there is no rust inside that door, and I sprayed Waxoyl over the lower skins and anti-intrusion bars.
    Good luck with your continuing search
    John E
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  • Yesterday I removed the O/S front wheel and arch liner to inspect the top link. Pleased to find:
    1 all looks clean and link looks newish.  
    2 grease evident on nipple and at front end.
    3 no movement detected, but difficult to apply force as there is no convenient fulcrum to lever against.
    I also learned what many others mean about a mud trap at rear of liner.  I think I have a solution involving sticky back transparent plastic, as used for covering books. I will try this when back at home. Visiting father in law at present.

    Regards to all and special thanks to those who explained how to remove liner without damage.
     
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  • EllisoJo thanked the user markymark in the forum post, Aussie Electric MGF Conversion
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  • Hi zsoltgraz, Yes I know yours is a TF, In fact my first response to your question said "Hi down there, I also have a 2002 TF"
    Mr Pagets comments about dehydration DO still apply to the UPPER suspension arms. The SUBFRAME was changed to accommodate steel springs instead of Hydragas, but the upper arms were essentially the same. If you look on the Rimmer Bros. website, the upper arms for the TF still have needle rollers and grease nipples. Paget's point it that mecanics do not bother with greasing these nipples, and a design flaw means that the needle rollers furthest from the nipples are starved of grease.

    Hope your rattle and mine are both caused by something else, but if we do have to replace upper arms, the good news is that Rimmer Bros seem to have these arm assemblies or the component parts (if some of your parts are re-useable) in-stock.
    Regards
    John E
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  • Hello again and I have remembered something which may be helpful:
    A Man called Mark A Paget wrote a very interesting article called something like:
    Death Through Dehydration
    which was about Mini - Moke - Metro and MGF suspension
    Below is an extract:
    Rover 100 and MG-F are unusual for popular small cars. Despite being produced in the 1990s and early 2000s, they still have grease points. Virtually all their competitors had ‘sealed
    Copyright Paget 2010
    for life’ systems. Therefore industry and public attitudes had already moved away from physically lubricating any vehicle. The result of course is obvious. As both models continue to use the same design of pivot pin as the others, the same problems can be expected.
    Lack of lubrication results in;
     premature wear to bearings (bushes),
     pivot pin wear,
     thrust face erosion at the end of each arm, and
     after prolonged periods, erosion of the arm’s internal faces to which the bearings mount.
    This may present itself as noise, excess free play, seizure or collapse (catastrophic failure). Even with the most fastidiously assembled arms, lubricant flow can be haphazard. Countless arms can be found where lubricant will only move to one end. Despite the vast array of non-genuine pins (with their wildly varying tolerances), none have improved the lubrication system. A simple alternative for rear units would be to introduce another nipple and drilling at the pin’s inner end. This would of course increase the chance of adequate grease distribution.
    Front arms fair no better but are not serviced on an exchange basis. Applied load tends to mask problems such as free play. Ignorance and avoidance of the problem creates lack of demand, hence lack of supply.
    Unlike many other suspension components, there are no aftermarket reproduction arms. The possible exception being the mystery brand Chinese made rears for 13” Moke. However these at best ‘resemble’ the genuine part. Choke (Chinese-Moke) parts are manufactured to No accepted International Standard. Sellers and stockists of course recommend their product but buyers tend to be limited to the extremely tight-fisted. ‘Cheap’ Moke owners are an acknowledged social phenomenon.
    The only effective answer is to attentively lubricate the original factory system. Ideally this would occur every 1000 miles with an extreme outside limit of 3000 (1500 > 5000 Km). A well serviced Mini can be easily expected to be on its original rear pins and arms after forty years. If not for pin failure, Big wheel Moke could match this. Though finding a well serviced example of either car can be extremely difficult. If not for the following problem, front arms could be well expected to outlast the vehicle. However the service and repair of this next component is beyond that of the owner/driver.
    A second area of concern is the knuckle joint
    I am not clever enough to be able to send a link, but you should be able to Google search it.

    He is from your part of the World, by-the-way!  He is certainly a World-Class expert on Hyrdragas and Hydrolastic suspension systems.  I used to sell Materials Testing Systems, and he certainly knows what he is talking about re springs and suspension systems. A VERY useful bloke to meet-up with if you can. Pleae pass my thanks for his advice (Which steerd me towards a metal-sprung TF rather than a Hydragas MGF.
    Regards
    John E
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  • Hi down there! I also have an MGTF built in 2002 and also have Knocking noise!  You seem to have done all the checks I have done, apart from taking the drivers door apart.  I THINK my noise is coming from inside the door, but sometimes sounds from further forward.  There are some brilliant "How To" guides on the www.MG-ROVER.ORG site, I intend to follow their instructions for "Central locking mechanism replacement how to" guide to remove the door trim etc. to search for loose actuating arms between the inside door handle and lock.

    I suspect that "OUR" problem is more suspension related however (bad news!) but as both vehicles have passed an MOT test or the Aussie equivalent and then some, by sound of things, hopefully nothing is just about to fall off!
    Have you been able to look at the underside while the car is on a ramp/4-post lift?  I had some concerns about brake efficiency, so paid my local garage to repeat a brake test and let me have a dekko. I will try to attach a picture:
     
    I wish you good hunting and will keep a close watch on this thread!
    Thanks for asking the question
    Regards
    John E
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  • EllisoJo thanked the user cjj in the forum post, Centre console. - How to Remove
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