It works and tells the time to within 2 minutes every 24 hours, not bad for 100 years of age.
Should that not read ....2 minutes every 12 hours??
O.k. Nobody likes a smart Ar!e, but I could not resist!
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In the early days of my TF ownership, I used to suffer from a loud clunking rattle from the driver's door. When I remove the liner and rain excluding plastic, I found that the rear guide had either fallen off or was never installed. It was lying in the bottom of the door (see first photo below.) The part, after cleaning is in pic 2 and the blue plastic sheath which fits between the guide and the glass is in the last picture, mounted in the correct place before I replaced the cast guide block. I was surprised by how heavy that cast lump of (Mazak??) guide block was. I still have minor rattles from the door, but nothing like as bad as before replacing the heavy guide block.
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Fully agree with the above. It also occurs to me that if your F is grounding on your garage/drive floor, either the ground-clearance is desperately small, or your drive/garage floor or wherever it is grounding must be VERY uneven.Cobber wrote: The fact that there are so many bolts used to secure the plate tells be it must do something to stiffen the car, otherwise they'd just use a few clips of self tappers.
Even the ribs and folds pressed into the part will when in combination with all those bolts will add to the torsional rigidity of the car, they may even contribute to a reduction in NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness)
I used to have problems with grounding at a slope reversal where my drive meets the edge of the "main" road outside our house. Since selling the Kit car and buying the standard, (NOT "Sportspack" 1 or 2) TF135, I have never had any grounding problems, despite the appallingly bad state of Devon roads. Are you confident that the Satur suspension was installed and set-up correctly?
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