BruceTF135

EllisoJo wrote:

I have fitted that system to a 2002TF. Very happy with the results:
I added a low-current-demand LED, which I positioned in the vacant "Transmission Fail" instrument panel position:


I have had a couple of brief False Alarms, only when ascending steep hills & cornering. My wife finds it annoying that it sounds both when ignition turn to 1st position, then again at engine start, but I like that "feature": You KNOW it is "available for duty". To kepp the buzzer & wife quiet, I have added a switch between buzzer and the "output" side of the circuit, so that ONLY the light illuminates when:
1. Wife is in car
2. I have remembered to isolate the buzzer!

Other pictures you might find helpful if you choose the LED route (assuming your car is NOT Steptronic/Stepspeed)

P.S. If you fancy a trip to East Devon (Honiton area), I would be happy to show my set up and offer guidance on how I routed wires, chickened-out of using reversing-light feed and found spare output on fuse box etc.

P.M. me if you need to
John E

Thanks for the support, John. A couple of comments on your intelligent modifications.

The LED in parallel to the switch is a common modification. I have never offered it as an alternative or addition to the sounder as it makes the wiring so much more complicated for those inexperienced in car maintenance/repair/modification. The same applies to the 12v supply; the fuse box makes good sense but, despite the awkward position, it is much simpler to run the wire to the recommended connection.

For anyone thinking of connecting an LED in parallel with the sounder, please use either a 12v LED, or LED with a suitable current limiting resistor, to keep the current to a maximum of about 25mA. 500Ω to1kΩ should be about right.

The comment about the startup beep is interesting. When I made my first prototype, I was delighted that it provided a brief beep at startup as it provided reassurance that it was still working. About 1yr later, the design of the sensor changed and there was no startup beep. I received a lot of complaints from customers who were expecting this 'self-test' warning. I complained to the manufacturer and a year or two later, the warning beep was back. The reason there is a second beep on starting the car is the same as the reason the radio goes off and on. The starter nicks all of the electrical power and so the alarm circuit stops and restarts.

During the period when there was no 'self-test' warning, I came up with a dual-purpose switch which, either sounded the buzzer on demand, or silenced the buzzer in an alarm situation. But I never pursued this in the version for sale.

In my experience, false alarms are incredibly rare. Provided the sensor is positioned correctly and the coolant is at MAX (top of the seam or just covering the internal plastic extrusion), it doesn't seem to happen. Perhaps it's because I drive more like a granny than a teenager

GreenComet wrote:

Thanks - I've gone ahead and purchased one this morning.

I have a few questions and would be really grateful for help in answering them:

1) What glue can be used to attach the sensor to the expansion tank? I'm looking for a glue that won't compromise the integrity of the tank plastic

2) Is there anyone local to Southampton/Eastleigh who could help me fit this kit?

Many thanks

Matt

Thanks! I've received your order and posted it already. It should be with you in a few days. Had you contacted me here you could have saved a few pounds on the purchase price. But, hey, it's super cheap already

It's all in the instructions, but you can use pretty much any adhesive that is reasonably heat and moisture resistant. I have always recommended the slow-setting Araldite Standard but from the feedback I have received more people use some kind of silicone adhesive, such as Sikaflex. If not marking the vessel is important to you, you could always fix the sensor to the tank with a long cable tie, (or two joined together).

For anyone else who is interested in one of these, please contact me here, by private message, to receive a significant discount.

Then sorry, this is beyond my knowledge. In my defence, it is very common for the pedal to be overlooked when dealing with a sticky throttle. Hopefully, someone with more knowledge will be along to offer better advice

Is the throttle action sticky at all or is everything silky smooth but you still get a jerky response from the throttle? If there is something sticky, this may be your problem.

There is a YouTube video covering this here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mgf+rear+light+removal&oq=mgf+rear+light+removal&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIKCAEQABiABBiiBDIKCAIQABiiBBiJBTIKCAMQABiABBiiBDIGCAQQRRhA0gEINzY3OGowajeoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_RnoiZrD4MqWnhbIPwN-n8A0_29

My 2004 TF 135 is a bit tappety when I start it up. I don't use the car as often as I should so maybe it is just the oil draining down. The tapping disappears as the engine warms up. As it has done 112,000 miles I'm thinking of using some valve lifter additive. Is it worth doing or is this stuff ineffectual? If I'm going to use it, is it best to put it in after an oil change or to put it in and run it for a while before the oil change?

It's not often that I can contribute something useful on this great forum. Glad to be able to help in some small way.

It still doesn't explain why you can't bleed your brakes, though.

digcot65 wrote:

Morning I managed with some difficulty to remove the flexi hose ,thinking it was blocked .However blowing through it the hose seems quite clear .Ive sealed the master cylinder reservoir with cling film to stop it leaking.The next job is to see if fluid pours out of the brake pipe,when I remove the seal Ive always found this happens when the flexi is disconnected .The master cylinder looks quite new .We have a visitor so on hold Len

I don't think I'm wrong.

Isn't that master cylinder with the cling film under the cap the CLUTCH master cylinder?... The brake master cylinder has a level switch on the cap; it does on mine, at least.

Obviously, we haven't heard the car. You say it has a Piper exhaust. I imagine this is a 'sports' exhaust so I would also imagine that whatever is going on is the same as with my TT7 . It pops and burbles at tickover and also on the overun in 1st gear. It occasionally makes a more enthusiastic pop very occassionally when I give it some welly. It never bangs enough to scare anything. I never noticed any of this with the original exhaust. The lads around my way pay good money to get this effect on their Corsas.

I'm not looking for a fault on my car because I don't think there is one. Yours is probably fine too. Maybe you could upload a YouTube video of yours so we can make a more informed judgment?